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Browsing by tag: bertrand duchaufour

Neela Vermeire Creations Mohur ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 9 March 2012 33 Comments

roses

Last month I tried all three fragrances from Neela Vermeire Créations in one sitting, one after the other. Trayee made me think, and Bombay Bling made me smile, but Mohur made me swoon a bit. Kevin has already written an excellent review of Trayee and Bombay Bling, in which he mentioned that Mohur wasn’t quite his type; however, it is exactly my type, so I’m happy to follow up with a review of this fragrance, which is described as “a combination of opulent moghul rose perfumes and a distinguished spicy leather bouquet.”

Mohur’s notes are listed as cardamom, coriander, ambrette, carrot, black pepper, elemi, rose, jasmine, orris, aubepin flower, almond milk, violet, orris, leather, sandalwood, amber, white woods, patchouli, oudh, benzoin, vanilla and tonka bean. Its background “story” includes references to the British Raj era, to the mohur coin that was used under British rule in India, and to the Mughal empress (and perfumer) Noor Jahan. (You can read more about the fragrance’s historical allusions on the richly annotated and illustrated Neela Vermeire Créations website.)

My knowledge of Indian history is woefully limited…

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The Different Company Oud For Love ~ new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 24 February 2012 40 Comments

The Different Company Oud For Love

French niche line The Different Company has launched Oud For Love, the second in the “Collection Excessive” series that began with last year’s Oud Shamash…

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Neela Vermeire Creations Trayee & Bombay Bling ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 16 November 2011 18 Comments

The new Paris-based fragrance line Neela Vermeire Créations has released three perfumes inspired by India: Trayee, Mohur and Bombay Bling (all developed by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour). Mohur, a neon-bright, rose-focused scent, doesn’t appeal to me, but I enjoy Trayee and Bombay Bling. Trayee smells “serious,” even studious, while Bombay Bling is full of cheer — a great pair! The Trayee “type” will earnestly discuss Chola art and the meaning of nirvana, while Bombay Bling guzzles fruity cocktails, gossips and screams with delight while watching Devdas… for the fifteenth time.

Trayee

blue ginger, elemi, cinnamon, ganja effects, blackcurrant, basil, jasmine, cardamom, clove, saffron, sandalwood, vetiver, incense, patchouli, myrrh, vanilla, cedar, amber, oud and oak moss

Trayee starts off with strong saffron and “green” medicinal aromas; as it dries, this opening accord conjures the scent of “leather.” Trayee is a well-blended fragrance and you have to strain to smell ginger, blackcurrant and cardamom — but they are there. In Trayee’s base (my favorite — and the longest lasting — part of the fragrance) rich cedar and oud notes appear alongside touches of piney elemi and dark, smoky tobacco-‘marijuana’…

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Neela Vermeire Creations ~ new fragrances

Posted by Robin on 10 October 2011 18 Comments

Neela Vermeire Créations

Neela Vermeire Créations is a new Paris-based niche line exploring the history of India through three fragrances, Trayee, Mohur and Bombay Bling. All three scents were developed by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour…

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L’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 10 ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 26 September 2011 56 Comments

L'Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 10

Two and a half years ago, perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour created ten fragrances. “Sure,” you might say, “And he’s created another couple of dozen since then. Big deal.” The thing is, he only made one bottle of each of these fragrances. L’Artisan Parfumeur put them on the market for $20,000 each. Now L’Artisan is producing eight of those fragrances for the masses for the relative bargain of $200 for 100 ml. Of them, Mon Numéro 10 piqued my interest right away.

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s PR machine says of Mon Numéro 10, “This last act will be explosive. After our travels, secret tributes and other sensual pleasures, this perfume is an explosion of warm, enveloping notes. Quite simply addictive. A heady, memorable ode to a highly sought-after note of oriental perfumes. Mon Numéro 10, with its eccentric, piercing mood, is like an evening gown that turns heads all on its own.”

Well. Does anyone else get an image of trains and bombs and evening dresses walking around without anyone in them? Let me simplify the description of Mon Numéro 10: it’s a spicy leather oriental. My thumbnail review? Leather cola…

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