L’Artisan Parfumeur will launch Haute Voltige, Rappelle-Toi and Onde Sensuelle, three new fragrances joining the Explosions d’Emotions collection (see Skin on Skin, Amour Nocturne and Déliria). The fragrances were developed by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour…
Long-time perfumistas, what were the “big” niche brands when you started out? My own perfume addiction took hold on the fragrance board in MakeupAlley in 2003, and at that time, as I saw it, the “big four” were basically Diptyque, Serge Lutens, Frédéric Malle and L’Artisan Parfumeur.1 When one of those four brands released a new fragrance, perfumistas sat up and took notice, and everyone did their best to get their hands on a sample as soon as samples were available to be had.
It’s a different world now. There are approximately three times as many fragrance launches every year, and so many niche brands have sprouted up — and in some cases, vanished again just as quickly — that it’s impossible to keep track of them all. Diptyque, Serge Lutens, Frédéric Malle and L’Artisan Parfumeur are still big names, but even venerable old brands can no longer rest on their laurels what with all the product out there competing for attention. It takes some doing to keep the affections of your long-time customers and still attract new business.
L’Artisan Parfumeur kept my affections for a good long time, but lately, I’ve been puzzled by exactly what they’re doing over there. Many of their beloved series — the limited edition summer fragrances, the travel fragrances (Bois Farine, Timbuktu, Dzongkha), the harvest perfumes — appear to be in remission, and it looks like they are phasing out a number of my favorite scents…
I admit it: sometimes I do feel an “explosion of emotions” when I pass a bakery display case. But I wouldn’t have thought a perfumer’s rendition of an emotional explosion would give off so much brioche and baba au rhum. To me, that’s just what L’Artisan Parfumeur Explosions d’Emotions Amour Nocturne and Déliria do. They smell like sophisticated pastries steeped in liqueur — and for Déliria, sitting in a crimped foil holder.
L’Artisan Parfumeur released three fragrances in its Explosions d’Emotions collection: Amour Nocturne, Déliria, and Skin to Skin (which Robin will review later this week). L’Artisan describes the collection as “Three concepts, translating the extraordinary emotional power of fragrance, created without compromise, with master perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour.” They’re packaged in a larger, squat version of the perfume house’s classic columnar, heptagon1 bottle and cost an eye-popping $280 each.
So, what do we get for all that cash…
Design team Meadham Kirchhoff will launch Tralala, their debut fragrance, under the Penhaligon’s label. The scent represents “the surreal and fantastical world their designs evoke”; the name was inspired by* a character in the movie Last Exit To Brooklyn…
Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour talks about the Explosions d’Emotions collection from L’Artisan Parfumeur.