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Browsing by tag: antoine maisondieu

Etat Libre d’Orange Noel au Balcon ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 17 December 2010 53 Comments

When I first heard about Noël au Balcon from Etat Libre d’Orange, it was being offered as a limited edition fragrance for the 2007 holiday season. I was disappointed that I wouldn’t have a chance to try it, since it was only available at Sephora in France. Fortunately, Noël au Balcon joined the permanent Etat Libre line-up about a year ago, and now that I’ve had a chance to wear it, the season seems right for a review. Noël au Balcon’s composition includes notes of tangerine, vanilla, honey, orange blossom, apricot, red pepper, patchouli, musk, cistus, cinnamon, nigella, and amber, and it was created by the perfumer Antoine Maisondieu (who has produced a number of fragrances for Etat Libre, including another of my favorites, the aldehydic peachy-floral Vraie Blonde).

Since we’re dealing with Etat Libre d’Orange, there is the requisite punning in the fragrance’s title and some racy imagery in its logo and its descriptive “story”; allusions to cleavage abound. The proverb “Noël au balcon, Pâques au tison” means that a warm Christmas — warm enough to spend on the balcony — will be followed by an unseasonably cool Easter (requiring “firebrands”). And the expression “avoir du monde au balcon,” or “the balcony is crowded,” is a reference to a shapely bosom…

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Burberry Brit Limited Edition 2010 ~ new fragrances

Posted by Robin on 14 September 2010 22 Comments

Burberry Brit Limited Edition

Burberry will launch new limited edition versions of Burberry Brit for men and women in October. The new duo “captures the atmosphere of the British winter season”…

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Guerlain Vega and Etat Libre d’Orange Vraie Blonde ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 2 August 2010 90 Comments

Guerlain Vega, vintage advertGuerlain Vega perfume bottle

A statuesque blonde draped in bias-cut, ivory silk charmeuse is a classic image of glamour. She drinks champagne, has breakfast in bed on a tray, takes bubble baths, and breaks hearts. A puff of maribou trims the toe of each of her slippers. Now that this image is firmly in mind, let’s tweak it. Give our blonde a few years in a Swiss finishing school, a lusty appetite for lobster at midnight, and a laugh a little too loud for her patrician mother, and you have Guerlain Vega. Substitute wine coolers for the champagne, a facility for Pig Latin rather than French, and an addiction to patent leather heels from Payless, and you have Etat Libre d’Orange Vraie Blonde. They’re sisters from opposite sides of the tracks.

Jacques Guerlain created Vega, a blowsy floral aldehyde, in 1936…

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Lanvin Marry Me ~ new perfume

Posted by Robin on 23 June 2010 118 Comments

Lanvin Marry Me fragrance

Lanvin will launch Marry Me, a new fragrance for women, in August. The scent is meant to reflect a moment of intense happiness — whether or not that moment is taken seriously…

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Burberry Sport For Men and Gucci by Gucci Sport pour Homme ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 2 June 2010 29 Comments

Burberry Sport For Men and Gucci by Gucci Sport pour Homme

Ah, sport fragrances — (almost) universally hated by PerfumeFanatics© and apparently adored by, and selling like hotcakes to, the rest of society. For perfumers, being asked to formulate a sport fragrance for the mainstream market must be like Martha Argerich being asked to play the C major scale (right hand only) — easy work! And with sport perfumes, the ease smells; these fragrances are, for the most part, interchangeable and have no interesting facets (only the bottles and designer names are unique). This spring, Burberry and Gucci are but two companies involved in major sport fragrance launches.

Burberry Sport for Men

Christopher Bailey, Burberry’s chief creative officer, said: “I wanted it (Burberry Sport for Men) to feel like there was movement in the scent. I kept saying I wanted it zingy; I wanted to feel alive; I wanted to feel like it’s jumping.” 1 Burberry Sport for Men was developed by perfumers Sonia Constant, Nathalie Gracia-Cetto and Antoine Maisondieu and contains notes of “frosted ginger,” grapefruit, wheatgrass, marine notes, juniper berry, red ginger, white musks, cedar, woods and “dry amber.”

Burberry Sport for Men starts off soapy, sweet and gingery, with a clean grapefruit note. The gingers in Burberry Sport are more spicy-candied (think preserved ginger or strong ginger ale) than fresh and rooty. There is also a light and indistinct floral character in the soapy opening. As the scent goes into its mid-phase of development it becomes a bit “astringent” (bracing and “cool” but not strident); the dry-down returns to the sweetness of the opening notes with hints of pale wood, light musk and soft ambergris. Though Burberry Sport follows the sport scent trajectory, it’s mellower than most sport fragrances on the market…

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