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Spicier, more aromatic

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Isabelle, Camille said, was working on a new Gardenia fragrance which she described as "fresh and light", and had just completed a new version of another fragrance, Mandragore. Both are slated to be launched next year.

"The new Mandragore is spicier, more aromatic, with notes like pepper and anise. The ingredients' potency is stronger. It's for winter, so it'll be darker," she said.

— That's Camille Goutal of Annick Goutal, talking about some upcoming fragrances developed by perfumer Isabelle Doyen. Read more at Scent of a happy woman at the New Straits Times.

Annick Goutal on Motcomb Street ~ perfume shopping in London

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Annick Goutal in London, Motcomb Street

The first Annick Goutal boutique in the UK has opened on Motcomb Street, a tucked-away retail enclave in glossy Knightsbridge.

Although it’s only ten minutes walk from Harvey Nichols, it’s a bit off the beaten track as far as the tourist trade is concerned. This makes for a quiet shopping experience, which can come as a relief after the bustle of the big Knightsbridge stores.

The boutique sells the full Goutal range, including toiletries, candles and the L’Orientalistes collection. Fragrances such as Sables, not always widely available, can be found here.

On the main floor, there’s a quiet space with seats and a hand-basin, so that you can test and remove the scents. Downstairs, there’s a lingerie room with a small jewellery range, and a display of fragrances in Baccarat bottles…

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Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes (Ambre Fetiche, Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant) ~ fragrance review

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Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche, Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant perfumes

Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal were inspired by beauty rituals of the harem to create Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes — a trio of scents (Ambre Fétiche, Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant) released at the end of 2007. I think it’s time to enact a moratorium on evoking the past in perfume advertising and promotion, since most ad executives and copywriters apparently skipped history classes. Perhaps the young women of the harem enjoyed their beauty rituals; I sincerely hope, in some small way, the costly items in their toiletry cases and incense boxes made up for the fact they had (most likely) been kidnapped, enslaved and separated from their families forever. Oh yes, there were also those pesky eunuchs and the sultan’s controlling mother to contend with, not to mention stress-inducing rivalries between concubines that sometimes led to murder — or banishment from the harem (which usually resulted in a life of poverty).

I’m wiping all thoughts of “the harem” from my mind and enjoying Les Orientalistes as fragrances that pay homage to the art of perfumery in the Middle East…

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