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Browsing by tag: amber

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 26 June 2017 55 Comments

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir

My coworkers Brigid and Aimee have worked together for years and are good friends. When they see each other, one will often say in a sultry voice, “Oh, hi” like she’s pretending to run into her high school crush by the locker, when in fact she planned the “accident” all morning. It’s alluring, theatrical, and goofy — over-the-top in the best way — and it cracks me up and warms my heart every time.

This is how I feel about Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir. It’s a dense, sparkling amber-woody fragrance that is to perfume like chocolate volcano cake is to dessert, a marvel of too-muchness I find hard to resist…

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Aedes de Venustas Cierge de Lune ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 2 January 2017 14 Comments

Aedes de Venustas Cierge de Lune brand image

Not every perfume is a groundbreaking work of art. It’s best that way. Some fragrances earn their keep as supporting characters — everyday auras that hum along and let you provide the personality. They’re flexible perfumes friendly to just about any situation, mood, or season. They’re “go tos” when you don’t want to think too much about a scent, but simply want to spritz one on and forget about it.

Perfumes I count on to fill this role include Guerlain Vol de Nuit, DelRae Mythique, Caron Nocturnes, Bois 1920 Sutra Ylang, and, to some extent, Chanel No. 5. If I had a bottle, Hermès Eau des Merveilles would join the line up. For someone who loves amber, Aedes de Venustas Cierge de Lune might be a solid choice for this kind of “aura” fragrance…

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Enfleurage Sanctuary, Roses & Amber ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 19 November 2015 11 Comments

Enfleurage house blends

Was it really six years ago that I wrote a shopping report about Enfleurage, New York’s most specialized purveyor of natural aromatics? Yes, apparently. The boutique has since moved to a new address (237 West 13 Street, in Manhattan’s Chelsea neighborhood) but its staggering selection of essential oils and natural incenses remains unchanged. I still sniff individual oils during each of my visits, but I’m also very fond of Enfleurage’s “house blends.” They’re available as concentrated oils and as “roll-ons to go,” diluted in a base of organic jojoba oil for ready-to-wear use.

My favorite house blend is Sanctuary, a blend of ylang ylang, chamomile, patchouli, clary sage and black pepper…

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Parfums de Nicolai Ambre Cashmere Intense ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 28 October 2015 19 Comments

As the curtain rises on the charming Ambre-Cashmere family, everyone is talking simultaneously on stage — there are grunts, witty asides, chuckles, humming…and whispers delivered with a hissssss; no one is willing to ease up or shut up. We meet happy Lady Mandarin, handsome/smooth-talking General Pepper, the self-effacing Misses Violet and Iris, and bitter Mrs. Lemon, the cook (hissssss!) who brings in a tray full of tiny cups filled with hot cocoa. Chilly Cousin Clove attempts to stifle the conversation as Mr. Tonka Bean steps in to try and add sweetness and reason to the proceedings; but neither Clove nor Tonka Bean are a match for loud-mouthed / hard-drinking “Patch” who loves nothing more than creating a scene. Cashmeran (aka “CC”) — as the other cast members’ voices falter — gets the final, reassuring (and long-winded) speech. The End.

Parfums de Nicolaï Ambre Cashmere Intense’s1 initial cacophony is not unpleasant…it’s attention grabbing…

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Masque Milano Tango & Luci ed Ombre ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 28 April 2015 14 Comments

Masque Milano Tango

I love rough-and-ready amber fragrances. I’m not a fan of dainty or too-sweet (polite) amber perfumes (except in soaps or candles, and even then…). Masque Milano’s Tango1 is my type of amber; it presents a spicy amber that’s singed around the edges. The perfume begins with the aromas of pepper, charred cardamom and “tempered” cumin (as I sniff, the color that comes to mind is rich sepia). While remaining dark in character, Tango’s heart has glimmers of floral notes (“simmered/reduced” rose and jasmine…warm and rich, not fresh or clean). As Tango develops, I smell leather, tough musk, and only mild sweetness (tonka, vanilla, benzoin and clover accent the richer, burnt/caramelized notes; they never take over the composition)…

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