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Browsing by author: Marcello

Building a fragrance library: five "must-have" books for beginners

Posted by Marcello on 28 December 2005 6 Comments

mountain-books

What follows is a very brief compilation of reading suggestions to get you through the cold, dark days of winter. Five handpicked books, warmly recommended to the budding perfume enthusiast who wishes to learn more about the object of their passion.

Category: novels
Some have argued it’s a classic of contemporary German literature, I’ll stick to the assertion that it’s a very rewarding read: Perfume by Patrick Süskind should be part of everyone’s collection indeed.

Patrick Süskind
Perfume: The Story of a Murderer
available from various publishers. Penguin Books (UK) will issue a new pocket edition in January 2006…

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Perfume book review: The World of Perfume by Fabienne Pavia

Posted by Marcello on 15 December 2005 4 Comments

The World of Perfume is the sort of book that covers walls in discount bookcenters: it shares the shelf with illustrated books about birds, guns, trains, and fishing equipment. I bought my copy almost a decade ago, and it's been a while since I last browsed through its pages. Time to revisit this forgotten gem, and to set aside some prejudices about affordable coffee-table books.

Like most books in this genre, The World of Perfume is meant to browse through…

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Perfume books: Classification des Parfums et Terminologie

Posted by Marcello on 1 December 2005 5 Comments

There is no definitive, universally accepted perfume classification. Various charts, tables, and diagrams have been circulating among fragrance manufacturers since the 1970s, and you’re probably familiar with Michael Edwards’ Fragrance Wheel, introduced back in 1992. The French, of course, have a classification of their own: it’s described at length in the bilingual booklet Classification des Parfums et Terminologie, published by the Comité Français du Parfum in 2001.

The French project started in 1983, when six members of the Société Technique des Parfumeurs de France (now Société Française des Parfumeurs) got together to create a fragrance classification for the perfume industry. Raymond Chaillan, Yuri Gutsatz, Jean Kerléo, Raymond Pouliquen, Guy Robert, and Henri Sebag came up with five fragrance families: Floral, Chypre, Fougere, Amber, and Leather. They divided each family into subcategories (except for the Fougeres and the Leathers), and created an appendix with famous fragrances, categorized according to this new system. The first edition of Classification des Parfums was published in 1984, and was limited to feminine fragrances…

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Perfume books: Against Nature by Joris-Karl Huysmans

Posted by Marcello on 18 November 2005 5 Comments

Against Nature by HuysmanThe French fin de siècle must have been an incredibly exciting era. Just think of the great technological progress of the 1880s: the decade that brought us synthetic perfumery, with fragrances like Houbigant’s Fougère Royale (1882) and Guerlain’s Jicky (1889). But they were also times of increasing pessimism: in French literature, a group of self-proclaimed Decadents turned their backs on the current known as Naturalism. With their harsh depictions of a civilization in decline, they reacted against the contemporary bourgeois ideal of eternal progress. Joris-Karl Huysmans, the most prominent member of the Decadent movement, uncovers the maladies of the late nineteenth century in his novel Against Nature (1884): it captures the essence of a vibrant, troubled, and altogether confusing period in history.

Against Nature is often described as an anti-novel with an anti-hero. The main character, Des Esseintes, is a neurotic, ailing, eccentric, bored, thirty-year-old aristocrat with a keen sense for aesthetics. After a young adult life marked by exuberance on all fronts, he feels the urge to move away from the ‘vulgarities’ of the Parisian upperclass. He finds his retreat in a quiet countryside mansion, where he spends much of his time and money on interior decoration; not the least interested in the idyllic green grass and blue skies of Fontenay, he creates a dark, gloomy ambiance to set his mind at ease…

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The Emperor of Scent: A Story of Perfume, Obsession, and the Last Mystery of the Senses, by Chandler Burr

Posted by Marcello on 1 November 2005 15 Comments

Chandler Burr's The Emperor of ScentWith the exception of a handful of bestselling novels, books about fragrance rarely appeal to audiences outside the perfume community, and seldom raise controversy among their readers. The opposite is true for Chandler Burr’s The Emperor of Scent, which caused both a stampede and a stir as it hit the bookstores in 2003.

The Emperor of Scent tells the true story of Luca Turin, lecturer in biophysics (1993-2000) at University College London. Turin has developed a new theory of smell, which he attempts to bring under the attention of the academic community. His ideas on how smell works are radically different from those of the ‘established’ researchers in the field, and go against all principles by which manufacturers produce synthetic odorants. As Turin submits his paper to the renowned magazine Nature, his hopes for glory are clouded by a mist of opposition: the road to recognition proves to be long and arduous.

The resistence to Turin’s theory is the main theme in the second half of the book…

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