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Browsing by author: Marcello

Perfume books ~ The Foul and the Fragrant: Odor and the French Social Imagination by Alain Corbin

Posted by Marcello on 24 March 2006 9 Comments

The Foul and the Fragrant: Odor and the French Social Imagination by Alain CorbinThe last two books we’ve discussed (Classen’s Aroma and Süskind’s Perfume) give a good impression of the malodors that infested the streets of 18th century Paris, and of the negative connotations attributed to smell since the Enlightenment. Alain Corbin’s The Foul and the Fragrant fits well in this context, as it explores the relation between odors and hygiene in 18th and 19th century France. It traces back the social history of smell, particularly in the French capital, with the aim to better understand the “deodorized” world in which we live today.

Ever wondered how we ended up being so intolerant towards stench and body odor? You may think the answer lies in the invention of modern hygiene and deodorants, but according to French historian Alain Corbin, things are not that simple. Indeed, we sometimes forget just how radically science has changed our outlook on Nature in the past centuries; what looks obvious to us, may have been inconceivable to our ancestors. The Ancient Greek’s assumption that air, fire, water, and earth are the primordial elements of life serves as a small reminder: it wasn’t until the second half of the 18th century that Empedocles’ ideas were debunked by empirical science (think of Joseph Priestley, Antoine Lavoisier, Joseph Louis Gay-Lussac, John Dalton, Amedeo Avogadro).

Taking this into account, it’s hardly surprising to see how the concept of “bad air” meant something very different to people in 1750 than it does nowadays…

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Perfume books ~ Perfume: The Story of a Murderer, by Patrick Suskind

Posted by Marcello on 8 March 2006 9 Comments

Patrick Suskind Perfume book coverPatrick Suskind Perfume book cover

It’s never too late to read a good novel; but if you haven’t read Süskind’s Perfume yet, now is the time to do so. A combination of breathtaking suspense and unparalleled olfactory prose, this literary debut was one of the greatest worldwide bestsellers in the mid ’80s. The eponymous movie, directed by Tom Tykwer, will premiere in a few months. This may be your last chance to apply your personal, unbiased imagination to the story.

Perfume is the horrifying tale of an 18th century Parisian orphan, Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, whose primal curse — his unhuman lack of body odor — is paradoxically contrasted by a superhuman sense of smell. While the ‘demonic’ absence of a personal smell makes him a social outcast, Grenouille’s interior world is completely dominated by olfactory perceptions: the boy thinks, dreams, lives in terms of scent. Throughout his childhood, he avidly memorizes the fragrant landscapes surrounding him; in a desperate attempt to regain his own humanity, he becomes obsessed with the idea of creating the most sublime perfume imaginable. As a perfume apprentice, he quickly reveals his uncanny talent for fragrant compositions; but conventional methods will not lead him to his ultimate goal. For his definitive masterpiece, Grenouille resorts to dramatic sacrifices…

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Perfume books ~ Aroma: The Cultural History of Smell by Constance Classen, David Howes & Anthony Synnott

Posted by Marcello on 21 February 2006 6 Comments

Aroma: The Cultural History of Smell book coverThere's something convenient about social sciences: you don't need a master's degree in anthropology or sociology to understand the literature involved. I've decided to make good use of this fact, and shine some light on a product of genuine academic labor. Aroma is not a book about perfume, but if you have even the faintest interest in the culture of smell, this is an absolute must-have. Written by a trio of Canadian anthropologists in 1994, it was the first proper attempt to explore the social role of smell through history and across cultures. While it's no longer the only good book on the subject, it certainly hasn't lost its refreshing, original appeal yet.

Think of how often we use visual metaphors in our daily conversations. Think of all the symbols and icons that surround us, and how we use pictograms and illustrations and other imagery to get our messages across…

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Essence & Alchemy: A Natural History of Perfume by Mandy Aftel ~ perfume book review

Posted by Marcello on 2 February 2006 7 Comments

To say that Mandy Aftel took the world of natural perfumery by storm is hardly an overstatement. Little over a decade ago, while doing research for a novel, she found herself immersed in a collection of ancient perfume books. It was the start of a lifelong passion for natural essences: she put her literary ambitions on hold, and eventually established her very own perfume studio. Her current business, Aftelier, is a flourishing operation based in Berkeley, California. We take a closer look at her book Essence and Alchemy, which played a major role in the recent popularization of natural perfumery…

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Perfume books: The Science and Art of Perfumery by Edward Sagarin

Posted by Marcello on 13 January 2006 7 Comments

Reference books don't age well. Unlike precious wines or baseball-cards, they improve neither in quality, nor in value. What's the use, then, of a sixty-year-old treatise on perfumery? Is it still worth reading today? To answer this question, we take a closer look at one of the most popular exemplars of its day: Edward Sagarin's The Science and Art of Perfumery, published in 1945.

Let's start with a brief overview. The first two chapters of the book cover the historical backgrounds of perfumery. Through epigrams and biblical references, Sagarin illustrates the relationship between sacred rituals and the use of fragrant oils in Ancient times. From the third chapter onwards, the focus shifts to manufacturing techniques…

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