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Browsing by author: Marcello

A Natural History of the Senses by Diane Ackerman ~ perfume book review

Posted by Marcello on 28 October 2006 4 Comments

A Natural History of the Senses

One of the earliest written documents on smell is a treatise known as De Odoribus, commonly attributed to Theophrastus of Athens (ca. 372 – ca. 287 BC). It dates back to the times when men wore white tunics, and sat under olive trees to ponder about life. Nature was a mysterious thing, and making sense of it (!) was based on experience rather than experiment. Although our outlook on Life and Nature has changed drastically over the course of centuries, we can still relate to the naturalist approach practiced in Ancient Greece. The huge popularity of Diane Ackerman’s Natural History of the Senses is a case in point…

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Perfume: The Story of a Murderer ~ movie review

Posted by Marcello on 3 October 2006 9 Comments

Stanley Kubrick said it couldn’t be done. And he wasn’t alone. The idea of transposing the magic of Patrick Süskind’s novel Perfume to the big screen raised doubts among movie buffs and Süskind fans alike. And yet, on September 14th, Tom Tykwer’s highly anticipated movie adaptation finally premiered in Germany. I happened to be in Berlin a week later, and bought a ticket to the most expensive production in German cinematic history. Despite the absence of red carpets and confetti, there was a sense of excitement at the theater entrance. The obvious question on everyone’s mind was: how will the movie compare to the book? But as the credits appeared at the end of the show, I realized that a side-by-side comparison would only do injustice to the movie.

Tykwer’s latest really does hold its own as a captivating, entertaining film…

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Perfume books ~ L'Un Des Sens: Le Parfum au XXe Siecle

Posted by Marcello on 21 September 2006 4 Comments

L'Un Des Sens perfume bookL’un des sens — a French wordplay on the term indecency — was originally the title of a magazine on olfaction and perfumery, edited by Sylvie de Chirée and Brigitt Hörlin, and published somewhere in the late ’80s. I don’t know whatever became of that magazine, but the clever title was re-used in 2001 by Marie-Christine Grasse, Elisabeth de Feydeau, and Freddy Ghozland for their book on 20th century perfumes. L’un des sens (2001) is perhaps best described as a ‘hardcopy’ slideshow: it’s a lavishly illustrated, chronological compilation of perfumes launched between 1900 and 2000, from Houbigant’s Parfum Idéal to Flowers by Kenzo.

A tribute to the beauty of modern perfumery, then. So is this just another coffee-table book? No, it’s more than that. L’un des sens is different from the titles we’ve discussed so far, in that it also celebrates the great women of the past century. After all, the authors argue, perfume has been associated with femininity for the largest part of the 20th century; and indeed, the growing use of perfume is in many ways related to the liberation of women from old social restraints (think of the Victorian era, for example)…

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Perfume books ~ The Perfume Companion: A Connoisseur's Guide by Nigel Groom

Posted by Marcello on 12 August 2006 Leave a Comment

The Perfume Companion by Nigel GroomThe smallest coffee-table book in my collection is Nigel Groom's Perfume Companion. It has the shape and size of a travel guide, which makes it a handy companion indeed: you can bring it along to the dentist, the hair salon, the nail studio, or the gym. But let's assume you have no intention to do that. What other advantages does a compact guide like The Perfume Companion have over ordinary coffee-table books? To answer that question, let's see what this “Connoisseur's Guide” has to offer.

The Perfume Companion consists of two parts. Part one is essentially a quick guide to perfumery, featuring a brief historical overview of the industry…

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Building a fragrance library: five suggestions for advanced readers

Posted by Marcello on 19 July 2006 9 Comments

couple-reading

I often wondered if people on perfume boards had anything else in common beside their love of fragrances. After years of collecting data, comparing statistics, and plotting ingenious 3-D graphs, I finally found the answer: perfume addicts are avid readers. Whether it’s fiction or non-fiction, true perfume lovers seem to read day and night. I know many of them pay frequent visits to NST as well, which is why I decided to revive the old “Building a fragrance library”-concept. Last December we made a list of five “must-have” books for beginners, ranging from Süskind’s Perfume to Burr’s The Emperor of Scent. This time, the focus is on reference books.

Let’s start with a title closely related to the subject of perfumery: The Chemistry of Fragrances, compiled by David Pybus and Charles Sell. I have to admit I don’t own this one (yet), but I was fortunate enough to browse through it very recently. It covers all aspects involved in perfumery, giving wonderful insights into the stuff that modern fragrances are made of, and how they are marketed. As has been said many times before, chemistry plays an essential role in the art of perfumery; this book makes it clear that science and creativity go hand in hand…

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