• About
  • Login to comment
    • Bluesky
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Archives
Browsing by author: Marcello

Le Parfum by Jean-Claude Ellena ~ perfume books

Posted by Marcello on 1 October 2007 34 Comments

Jean Claude Ellena Le ParfumOne of the most thoughtful and polemical writings on perfumery, Edmond Roudnitska’s booklet Le Parfum, sadly went out of print a few years ago. Although a classic in its own right, it showed too many signs of old age to be reproposed to the general public in the “Que sais-je”-series. To fill this unforgivable void, the publishers asked Jean-Claude Ellena to write a new booklet on perfumery under the same title. And much to my personal delight, it’s finally available: I got my copy through French online bookstore fnac.

If you expect this new title to be the 2.0 version of its famous predecessor, you’re in for a big disappointment. Ellena has his own story to tell: whereas Roudnitska’s booklet was first and foremost a critical pamphlet (convincing lawmakers to attribute official artistic status to perfumery, in order to protect it from plagiarism), Ellena primarily focuses on his personal experiences in the field, leading us through some of his well-known creations to explain what he regards as the essence of his profession…

Read the rest of this article »

Free Gift With Purchase by Jean Godfrey-June ~ perfume books

Posted by Marcello on 30 August 2007 4 Comments

Free Gift With PurchaseHi there, I'm Jean, and I'm a beauty editor at Lucky magazine. People always tell me I have the best job in the world. And you know what… I agree! I get fifty, a hundred, two hundred beauty gifts every day. Companies keep sending me so much stuff, I sometimes don't even know where to put it. We've got three giant walk-in closets at the office, we call them our beauty closets. Lip gloss, mascara, eye pencils, perfume — you name it, it's there. Once a month we sell the tacky things for charity, but we always make sure to keep the good stuff to ourselves. (And if 'good' means a silk Hermès scarf, we all turn into vicious monsters. It can get ugly sometimes, but that's just human nature.)

So I started at Elle magazine in 1993, which was a strange career choice since both my parents are scientists, and they really didn't see me in this line of work…

Read the rest of this article »

Under the Jaguar Sun: The Name, the Nose by Italo Calvino ~ perfume books

Posted by Marcello on 4 August 2007 Leave a Comment

Italo Calvino Under the Jaguar Sun

“A scent always dissipates, leaving in its wake no more than a faint echo, a lingering trace. Perfume is a 'here' en route to a 'there', a today floating away in the direction of a yesterday, a possession paradoxically coinciding with an immanent loss” (Richard Stamelman, p.19).

The notion of perfume as the 'essence of absence' has always been a great source of inspiration to poets and novelists. Few, however, have taken it as literally as Italo Calvino in his tale The Name, the Nose. This short story was published posthumously in 1986, together with A King Listens and Under the Jaguar Sun, and consists of three interwoven plots in which sensuality, desire, and the sense of smell play a central role…

Read the rest of this article »

Perfume: Joy, Obsession, Scandal, Sin by Richard Stamelman ~ perfume books

Posted by Marcello on 1 July 2007 7 Comments

Richard Stamelman, PerfumeLooking back at all the perfume books we’ve discussed so far, it strikes me how often perfume writers adopt a dramatic type of prose. We’re told that a world without scent would be “unbearable” (Barillé and Laroze), and that smells have the ability to “detonate softly in our memory like poignant land mines” (Ackerman). Perfume is not just a vehicle of elegance or beauty, it’s a transcendental “engine of the universe” (Aftel) that connects past memories with the present (much like that soppy cookie in your cup of tea). Although I’m still a bit wary of poetic metaphors in non-fiction books, I think I’ve come to terms with this distinctive characteristic, and I’m actually starting to appreciate it more and more. Firstly because I do realize that reading about perfumery is as much about enjoyment as it is educational; and secondly, because the elusiveness of perfume does indeed require a good dose of poetic imagery at times. Read Richard Stamelman’s book Perfume, and you’ll understand why.

Until recently, my favorite titles in the ‘generic’ section of my library were The Book of Perfume and Perfume Legends. They’re both well-researched, nicely illustrated, and great fun to browse through on a Sunday afternoon. Michael Edwards’ book in particular seemed like a hard act to follow: if I were writing a perfume book and that one landed on my desk, I’m sure it would discourage me a great deal. Fortunately, the author of Perfume just carried on with his project: to tell the story of perfumery from the mid 18th century to the present against the backdrop of changes in art, literature, poetry, architecture and fashion. The result is a book that is indeed focused on perfumery, only with a much wider scope than we’re used to…

Read the rest of this article »

The Smell Culture Reader, edited by Jim Drobnick ~ perfume book review

Posted by Marcello on 26 May 2007 11 Comments

The Smell Culture ReaderIn my review of Constance Classen's book Aroma (February 2006) I wrote about the growing academic interest for the culture of smell. Not long after that, a wonderful anthology entitled The Smell Culture Reader was published, with excerpts and essays from various renowned (and some lesser known) authors. This massive book (442 pages, 36 articles) brings together some of the finest contemporary writings on smell and its philosophical and cultural implications. Divided into seven sections, it covers a number of frequently recurring topics in this genre, such as scent and sexuality, smell psychology, and fragrance aesthetics. But it tackles less common themes as well, like the fear of foreign smells in the urban domain, or how odors define the ambiance of a space.

Among the contributors you'll find several authors we've discussed previously on these pages. There's an interesting article by Mandy Aftel on technical aspects of perfumery…

Read the rest of this article »

« Newer articles
Older articles »

Advertisement

Search

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

6 January ~ damage poll

31 January ~ winter reading poll

Back to Top

Home
Archives
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Books

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2026 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.