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Browsing by author: Marcello

Musc by Percy Kemp ~ perfume book review

Posted by Marcello on 4 March 2008 2 Comments

Musc by Percy KempMusc is the story of a man's obsession with a perfume and its reformulation. Monsieur Eme, a retired secret service agent living a serene life in Paris, is a physically well preserved and inconspicuously elegant gentleman. True to his Gallic nature, the art of seducing women is his favorite pastime; his secret weapon is Musc, an eau de toilette from a small house in Grasse that works in perfect harmony with his skin. He is by no means a perfume aficionado, but he's been more faithful to his fragrance than to any of the women in his life — including Eve, his mistress of 12 years. Monsieur Eme hasn't worn any other scent in the last 40 years, and Musc has become an essential part of his identity. So what happens when it no longer smells the way it used to? When it diffuses as a bland and synthetic aroma, giving off exactly the same odor on everyone else? For Monsieur Eme, a dramatic scenario unfolds.

The bad news starts on the day he opens a newly designed bottle of Musc…

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The Perfect Scent by Chandler Burr ~ perfume book review

Posted by Marcello on 24 January 2008 19 Comments

Chandler Burr, The Perfect ScentLong before his appointment as the world's first professional perfume critic, Chandler Burr had made a name for himself as a perfume journalist with a bit of an edge. His excellent New Yorker article on the creation of Hermès Un Jardin sur le Nil, which gave us a glimpse behind the scenes of this secretive industry, was followed by his regular contributions for The New York Times on the current state of perfumery, in which he wrote passionately about his aversion against the mystification, the anachronistic traditions, and the unspoken rules in the perfume trade. The vastness of his contacts is the envy of most perfume bloggers, and sometimes I wonder if he made more enemies than friends in the past years — which I mean as a compliment, of course. Hardly surprising then, that his latest book was so highly anticipated by many, including me.

If scientific controversy was a central theme in The Emperor of Scent, The Perfect Scent takes a swing at the maladies of the perfume industry. Burr uncovers its deeper mechanisms, from the dilemmas faced by manufacturers who are forced to accept assignments without contracts, to the pointless secrecy in which perfume formulae are still enveloped…

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Une Histoire mondiale du parfum, by Marie-Christine Grasse et al. ~ perfume books

Posted by Marcello on 6 January 2008 5 Comments

Histoire Mondiale du parfumIn 1999, the Metropolitan Museum of Art produced a wonderful booklet by Edwin T. Morris called Scents of Time. It gave a concise overview of perfume history, and came with a charming set of fragrance minis with scents like rose, sandalwood, orange blossom, and a traditional eau de cologne. A more elaborate book on the same subject (and by the same author) is Fragrance: the Story of Perfume from Cleopatra to Chanel, published in 1984; while the former is a decent but limited introduction that appeals mostly to novices and collectors, the latter is a more comprehensive source for advanced readers. The trouble is that they can only be obtained secondhand, and proper alternatives are very hard to find. Marie-Christine Grasse's Histoire mondiale du parfum is one of those exceptions that proves the rule: a beautiful, recently issued coffee-table book that is widely available, yet only in French. Here's an impression of what you will probably be missing, followed by a short, final thought.

The first section of Une Histoire mondiale du parfum is dedicated to “Antiquity”, and deals with perfume and cosmetics in America, Europe, and the Middle East…

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The Scent of Desire: Discovering Our Enigmatic Sense of Smell by Rachel Herz

Posted by Marcello on 2 December 2007 5 Comments

The Scent of Desire by Rachel HerzI've been looking forward to Rachel Herz' book for a long time. I found out about her work on the psychology of smell several years ago, and although I never got around to reading her academic work (published in reputable journals like the American Journal of Psychology and Chemical Senses), I did keep track of her frequent interviews in the popular media. The Scent of Desire is her first book, and tackles a wide range of questions on the relation between emotion and olfaction. From odor-emotional conditioning and olfactive memory to cultural differences in odor familiarity, Herz explains how odors influence our social relationships and mental health.

Smell is both a detector of danger, and a vehicle of desire. As the title suggests, The Scent of Desire is primarily focused on the latter. The author's basic premise is that emotional experience and the sense of smell are fundamentally interconnected…

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Storia di un naso, by Laura Tonatto and Alessandra Montrucchio ~ perfume books

Posted by Marcello on 4 November 2007 8 Comments

Storia di un naso by Laura TonattoI’m always interested in learning more about the personal background of a perfumer. Why did they choose their profession? What did it take to fulfill their ambition? Storia di un naso (“the story of a nose”) gives a first-hand insight in the life and works of Laura Tonatto, who is perhaps best known as the nose behind the Carthusia line. Since most Now Smell This readers don’t read Italian, I’ll give you a short biographical sketch of her life as narrated in this book.

Laura’s story starts in her native city of Turin, right after high school graduation. It was the summer of 1982, and Italy was a struggling nation. Social tensions, a languishing economy, the long arm of organized crime, and the fear of domestic terrorism were the recipe for a dreadful reality that even the World Cup Football tournament couldn’t erase. Laura’s only wish was to escape from her depressing hometown. She wanted to travel abroad, to a warm place with friendly people. The Tonatto family had relatives in Cairo, so Egypt was a sensible choice. With her parents’ consent, and the promise to be back in time for her first semester in law school, young Laura took off…

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