• About
  • Login to comment
    • Bluesky
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Archives
Browsing by author: Marcello

What the Nose Knows by Avery Gilbert ~ perfume books

Posted by Marcello on 16 August 2008 8 Comments

Avery Gilbert, What the Nose KnowsAvery Gilbert has a long track record in the field of smell psychology. His research papers have been published in renowned academic journals since the 1980s, and he has been a consultant to many large firms in the fragrance industry. What the Nose Knows is his first book, and deals with the psychology of odor perception. Piet Vroon and Rachel Herz have written very accessible books on this subject, but their work was primarily focused on the relation between olfaction, emotion and behavior. Gilbert's main mission is a different one: to challenge the assumption that the human nose is somehow inferior to that of other species. “Dogs have great noses,” he writes in the chapter on olfactory prodigies, “but it's time to stop the trash talk and give ourselves more credit” (p.63). His message is simple: there's nothing wrong with our nose, we're just not very good at using it.

Since the days of Charles Darwin (1809-1882) and Havelock Ellis (1859-1939), the notion that humans have a poor sense of smell has been more or less taken for granted. Scientists agreed that olfaction had lost its importance to humans from an evolutionary perspective, and that it was barely of use to modern man. In recent years, however, neurobiologists and sensory physiologists have gained better insights into the inner mechanisms of our nose…

Read the rest of this article »

Diptyque by Elisabeth de Feydeau ~ perfume books

Posted by Marcello on 1 July 2008 Leave a Comment

Diptyque by Elisabeth de Feydeau

Diptyque (2007), written by perfume author Elisabeth de Feydeau, is perhaps best described as a tribute to three friends who got together by chance, and went on to create a business with a very distinct signature. Although they came from different backgrounds, they shared a passion for art and design, and had the same views on aesthetics and presentation. This beautifully illustrated book traces back the history of Diptyque and its founders, giving an elaborate reconstruction of one of the most remarkable cult brands in perfumery.

Desmond Knox-Leet, Yves Coueslant and Christiane Gautrot opened their first shop in 1961, on the Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris, where they initially sold plain and printed furnishing fabrics. The former lingerie store at number 34 was located near Place Maubert, and just a few steps away from the Piscine Pontoise, a well-known public swimming pool. That corner of the fifth arrondissement (Left Bank) was still a working-class area in those days, which meant that it was affordable for young entrepeneurs…

Read the rest of this article »

Classic Perfume Advertising 1920-1970 by Jacqueline Johnson ~ perfume book review

Posted by Marcello on 28 May 2008 12 Comments

Classic Perfume Advertising by Jacqueline JohnsonJacqueline Johnson's Classic Perfume Advertising features a collection of 370 color prints published in American and French magazines between 1920 and 1970. I’ve always admired the work of illustrators from the 1920s and ‘30s, so when I found this book on Amazon for a little under $29, I didn't think twice about ordering it. Although there are many print ad collections on the net nowadays, I prefer to browse through them in a nice, large book. I was also curious about the stories behind these ads, the people who created them, and the impact they had on the public. How did time affect universal themes in perfume advertising, like romance, sensuality, luxury, and elegance? I had high hopes for this book, and was really looking forward to it. But when my copy finally came in the mail, I couldn’t help feeling disappointed.

What you get for your 29 dollars is a book with a lot of beautiful illustrations indeed…

Read the rest of this article »

Perfumes: The Guide by Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez ~ perfume book review

Posted by Marcello on 17 April 2008 8 Comments

Perfumes: The Guide

In a letter to his friend Oskar Pollak, Franz Kafka (1883-1924) once wrote: “I believe we should only read books that bite and sting. If a book we’re reading doesn’t wake us up with a punch on the head, what are we reading it for?” That punch on the head, that wake-up call, was a defining element in 20th century art. In Perfumes: The Guide, authors Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez describe their favorite perfumes in similar terms: a great composition takes you by surprise, exceeds your expectations, blows you away.

Some people, of course, can’t fathom why perfumes are worthy of serious consideration in the first place, let alone why they should be reviewed in a book…

Read the rest of this article »

Concepts of Cleanliness by Georges Vigarello ~ perfume books

Posted by Marcello on 7 April 2008 16 Comments

Concepts of Cleanliness by Georges VigarelloI recently came across two books on hygiene and body culture: Douglas Mackaman's Leisure Settings (1998), on the history of health spas in France, and Katherine Ashenburg's The Dirt on Clean (2007), on changing attitudes towards body odor through the ages. I haven't read either one of them yet, but from what I understand, both explore fields that are closely related to the work of French historian Georges Vigarello. I've been meaning to review his book Concepts of Cleanliness for quite some time; it's not seldom that words like 'clean' and 'dirty' appear in perfume reviews — take Robin's recent post on Guerlain Shalimar for example — and it's nice to put their meaning in a cultural perspective. Vigarello's book is a scholarly work on hygiene and cleanliness, and sets the record straight on some widespread historical misconceptions. Originally published in 1985 (right before Alain Corbin's The Foul and the Fragrant), it covers the period between the late Middle Ages and the 19th century, painting a vivid picture of washing and bathing rituals in France. The author dismisses the common assumption that the Middle Ages were simply 'dirty', and quotes from travel journals, etiquette books and other period documents to reveal that by our modern standards, personal hygiene reached an absolute low point during the 17th and 18th century…

Read the rest of this article »

« Newer articles
Older articles »

Advertisement

Search

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

6 January ~ damage poll

31 January ~ winter reading poll

Back to Top

Home
Archives
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Books

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2026 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.