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Browsing by author: Kevin

Guerlain Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus and Pacifica Lotus Garden ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 20 May 2009 54 Comments

Guerlain Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus perfume

The scent of lotus flowers is one of my favorite floral aromas, but smelling lotus in bloom is a rare treat. Lotuses blossom three hours “down the road” in Portland, Oregon, but it doesn’t stay warm enough, long enough for them to flower here in Seattle. If you want to know what lotus smells like, find a lotus pond and sniff the newly opened blossoms; do NOT rely on perfumes that mention ‘lotus’ in their ingredients or you will be a Lotus Ignoramus.

Lotus in modern perfumes has been interpreted as a “watery” floral note: light, clean and smelling like fresh, and I mean fresh, water surrounding flowering lotus plants. Describing real lotus fragrance is difficult, but pink lotus flowers smell citrus-y, “green” and “spicy” and they possess deep, sultry floral aromas accompanied by a faint scent of sweet, marsh mud. The perfume of lotus blossoms is strange and intoxicating. (Smell the “living” flower if possible; once you cut a lotus stem the flower’s fragrance fades quickly.)

Guerlain Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus and Pacifica Lotus Garden proclaim their devotion to LOTUS. Both fragrances fail to capture the scent of real lotus blossoms, but there’s more to talk about than lotus in these perfumes…

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Comme des Garcons Series 2, Red: Palisander ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 13 May 2009 61 Comments

Comme des Garcons Palisander fragrance

Two of my favorite rosewood-scented products, SABÃO PAU ROSA, Brasil (a soap) and Bois de Rose Eau de Toilette, “disappeared” about 10 years ago. I can’t remember the names of their manufacturers, but I remember their fragrances and have been searching for replacements ever since. The rosewood soaps were bright-red glycerin ovals wrapped in lime-green paper with black-and-white lettering. Bois de Rose was made in Provence and came in pale pink boxes decorated with an old-fashioned drawing of a rosewood tree.

The last time I wore Bois de Rose perfume was on a summertime New Mexico vacation with my friend Susan. I vividly remember our Bois de Rose-scented holiday adventures. After we checked into our rooms at a Taos inn, the owner, while delivering fresh towels, assumed we had switched rooms — SURELY, no man would have so many toiletry items lined up on the bathroom counter mere minutes after arrival…

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Paco Rabanne 1 Million & Omnia Granato ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 6 May 2009 46 Comments

Paco Rabanne 1 Million

Paco Rabanne 1 Million cologne for men

Paco Rabanne 1 Million debuted last August in Europe, but it’s never “officially” launched in the U.S. (though it can be purchased at online discounters here). 1 Million was developed by perfumers Christophe Raynaud, Olivier Pescheux and Michel Girard, and it contains grapefruit, blood orange, peppermint, rose, cinnamon, “spice,” blond leather, white woods, amberketal (synthetic ambergris) and patchouli. It’s difficult to review 1 Million because the fragrance is so well blended. Imagine painting precise squares of color (cool purple, faded pink, creamy green and sunny yellow) side by side onto a white canvas using acrylic pigments, then taking a wet brush and running it thru the middle of all the squares — blurring all the colors with one strong sweep of the brush. The resulting image of this rapid “mixing” is like 1 Million: gray (indistinct) in the center but with traces of residual color (individual notes) around the edges.

1 Million smells like “sugar and spice” with a touch of lavender-orange blossom and vanillic amber. It also smells like an upscale (slightly retro) barbershop…

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Diesel Only the Brave ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 29 April 2009 123 Comments

Diesel Only The Brave, fragrance bottleDiesel Only the Brave advert

After my Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme review posted last week, many men wrote me at my Now Smell This email address “confessing” their love for L’Homme; these men were unwilling to “admit” their admiration for L’Homme in my review’s comments section because I called the fragrance “standard-issue men’s perfume.” I think women are more willing to proclaim: “Call this perfume crap if you like…but I LOVE it!” All you sensitive perfumistos out there: I have a confession to make — I, too, like my fair share of “standard-issue” men’s fragrances.

Perfume addicts are inclined to enjoy categories of scents: ambers, vanilla fragrances, rose perfumes, mossy aldehydes…. Me? I like citrus perfumes, leather scents, smoky/incense fragrances, and vetiver and tea colognes of all types. If I come across a fragrance full of lemon, orange, petitgrain, a hint of vetiver and wood — chances are good I’ll enjoy it, even if there are 100 other fragrances that smell pretty much the same. Today’s scent, Diesel Only the Brave, is not innovative or “strange”, not by a long shot (it reminds me of Zirh Ikon for one), but I’m partial to its components, and I like it.

Only the Brave contains lemon, leather, cedar and amber. The fragrance opens with an ozone-lemon accord which is followed by a talc-y (super-light) leather note…

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Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme & La Nuit de L’Homme ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 22 April 2009 46 Comments

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de L'Homme cologne for men

Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme debuted in 2006 and has been a best-seller ever since; it is one of many fragrances that prove I do NOT have my finger on the pulse of the perfume-buying public. (L’Homme bores me.) I even nodded off as I read L’Homme’s notes list: bergamot, calone, ginger, basil, cedar, violet leaf, vetiver and tonka bean. I predicted, accurately, that L’Homme’s basil and ginger would be negligible and its bergamot, violet leaf and tonka would dominate.

L’Homme was created by the triumvirate of Anne Flipo, Pierre Wargnye and Dominique Ropion. L’Homme starts with warm (lightly gingered) bergamot and ozone, and it moves rapidly into (light) green territory (a touch of violet leaf). L’Homme ends comfortably on a plump cushion of amber-cedar-vanilla/tonka. L’Homme smells like standard-issue men’s perfume…

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