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Browsing by author: Kevin

Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums Geranium Pour Monsieur ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 31 July 2009 75 Comments

Styrax, Geranium Pour Monsieur, Mint

As I imagine him, the Géranium Pour Monsieur man is “casual” but always well groomed. He enjoys nature — sunshine, the sounds of birds, crickets and cicadas. The Géranium Pour Monsieur man can’t walk past a blossom without sniffing it. He rubs leaves between his palms and scratches bark with his fingernails to savor their aromas. The Géranium Pour Monsieur man, his dog at his side, would happily spend a quiet afternoon following a butterfly through country fields — a sprig of fresh, sweet grass between his lips, a wildflower tucked in his jacket buttonhole.

Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums Géranium Pour Monsieur is a charming and unpretentious fragrance (outdoorsy, but not “sporty”) created by perfumer Dominique Ropion; its notes include geranium, mint, rhodinol, aniseed, clove, cinnamon, sandalwood, incense resinoid, styrax benzoin, and white musk. When I first read Géranium Pour Monsieur’s ingredients list, I was worried the spices and musk would end up masking the mint and geranium, but spice and musk are used judiciously and don’t distort the slightly floral, herbal “greens” and dry woods in the fragrance…

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Christian Dior Escale a Pondichery ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 22 July 2009 117 Comments

Dior Escale a Pondichery fragrance

If I could stuff my mattress and bed pillows with one fragrant material, they would not be stuffed with rose petals, powdery sandalwood dust, dried herbs or even beloved vetiver — they would be stuffed with delicious-smelling black tea leaves. A favorite black tea of mine, Kalmi Gulabi, comes from India, and I get as much pleasure from sniffing the tea box containing it as I do sipping the brewed tea. Whenever someone mentions a “great tea fragrance,” I run — to the store or to a perfume sample supplier — and try it.

For those of you familiar with my perfume tastes and longings, pardon my mentioning ONCE MORE the late, great Comptoir Sud Pacifique Thé Eau de Parfum (its black tea note was rich and true). I would do almost anything for a bottle (or two…or three…) of Thé. I continue to mention Thé on this blog in the hopes I’ll open my email one day and read: “I have a case of the stuff in my basement; how much do you want and…what’s it worth to you?” I would reply: “All you have! Where do I ship my kidney?” Comptoir Sud Pacifique reformulated and renamed Thé…

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Nasomatto Black Afgano ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 15 July 2009 53 Comments

Nasomatto Black Afgano bottle

I’ve been known to let people sniff a perfume I’m wearing and tell them an outright lie: “Oh, this? It’s built around a molasses-corn silk note that’s just been developed!” or “The perfumer was trying to re-create a country scene. Imagine a field in early summer: the scents of cows, manure, grass, damp earth, and a near-by forest full of blooming honeysuckle!” I tell these “stories” with a straight face and excitement in my voice and often people believe me: “That’s what it smells like!” they say.

I do believe it’s possible to pull the proverbial wool over the eyes (and noses) of even the most jaded perfume lovers if you wrap vibrant images, an exotic storyline, and “forbidden,” “rare” and “hard-to-import” ingredients around a new fragrance; maybe it’s even EASIER to pull the wool over perfume lovers’ eyes because we often have well-developed imaginations, and we desperately want new perfumes to be BOLD! OUTRAGEOUS! ORIGINAL!

I became excited about Nasomatto Black Afgano as I read news releases about its formulation…

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Guerlain Habit Rouge ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 8 July 2009 77 Comments

Zhang Xuan, Spring Outing of the Tang Court

My father owned a bottle of Guerlain’s Habit Rouge Eau de Cologne when I was in the fifth grade. I’d sometimes put on a drop or two of the fragrance, but I was mortified if someone noticed my scent. (I did not like attention directed at my person — especially anything to do with grooming — when I was a pre-teen; the words:“Somebody smells good!” and the accompanying sniffing sounds made me cringe, and fear I was about to be sullied by a pair of unclean nostrils aimed at my perfumed skin.) I outgrew my skittishness around the time I left home for New York City and college life; I often doused myself with Habit Rouge Eau de Cologne (a going-away gift) and welcomed every bit of attention that came my way. Ten years later, older, wiser and less concerned with my effect on others, I bought Habit Rouge Eau de Toilette for the first time (the original Eau de Cologne formulation had been phased out). Three years ago at the Venice airport, on my way home from vacation in Naples, Italy, I couldn’t resist a bottle of Habit Rouge Eau de Toilette Légère1 — a “lighter,” limited edition of Habit Rouge, now discontinued. This past winter, a friend gave me a bottle of “classic” Habit Rouge Eau de Toilette for my birthday. Habit Rouge and I — we go way back.

Habit Rouge was created by Jean-Paul Guerlain and released in 1965; the original, rather baroque, list of ingredients (lemon, bergamot, basil, pimento, cinnamon, carnation, rose, rosewood, sandalwood, patchouli, cedar, amber, vanilla, moss, leather, benzoin, labdanum, olibanum) bears little relation to the Habit Rouge you’ll smell today…

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Czech & Speake Citrus Paradisi, No. 88 and Frankincense & Myrrh ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 1 July 2009 56 Comments

Czech & Speake colognes

There’s something strange about buying a perfume from the same people who manufacture your toilet bowl and bathroom sink. Imagine Kohler or American Standard coming out with a line of luxury perfumes in the United States — would anyone buy them? U.K. bath/kitchen fittings maker Czech & Speake has had great success with its home and personal fragrances, and today I’m reviewing three of Czech & Speake’s nine perfumes.

Citrus Paradisi

California grapefruit, coriander, pepper, patchouli, oak moss

Citrus Paradisi starts with intense grapefruit (smooth and rich) and spices (accent on the coriander); a ‘polite’ patchouli note and some sheer moss comprise the base notes. This is a pleasant, “warm” citrus cologne…

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