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Browsing by author: Kevin

Olivier Durbano Turquoise ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 30 September 2009 31 Comments

Turquoise

Ask me what a diamond ‘smells’ like, and I’ll have to think about it (and probably spout some easy associations most people wouldn’t challenge — a diamond smells like icy champagne, silk, red roses, ‘gold’…). Ask me what turquoise smells like and I immediately have an idea, not based on the scent of the gemstone but on a place I associate with turquoise: Tibet. Tibetan Buddhist jewelry and religious implements are encrusted with blue turquoise — which can symbolize the sky (infinity), bodies of water, or spiritual transcendence. I’ve not been to Tibet but my imagined Tibet smells ‘cold’ and fresh, with mineral/salt, incense, and floral (think: devotional offerings) aromas thrown in for some heft. Olivier Durbano Turquoise Eau de Parfum* fits into my Tibet-turquoise fantasies.

Years ago at the Seattle International Film Festival, I watched The Salt Men of Tibet and was amazed at the dramatic landscape shown in the film, and the high-altitude lakes of Tibet (Lake Namtso is the highest salt water lake in the world). To my nose, Turquoise, the perfume, is a “salty” marine fragrance…

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Calvin Klein ck free ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 23 September 2009 83 Comments

Calvin Klein ck free cologne

Women have push-up bras and now men have push-out pants. In September 2009’s Details, I was amused to read: “What gets between you and your Calvins this fall? Extra Calvin. Calvin Klein introduces Jeans Body, a new line of denim designed to enhance your silhouette. Special features include an inverted rear seam to frame your waist and butt as well as an extra layer of fabric on the fly to, um, fill out your package.” 1 It’ll certainly take a man with real balls to walk up to the cash register with these jeans in hand. Wearing Jeans Body jeans implies: “I need some help with my arse and my, um, package.” Calvin Klein, as a company, puzzles me.

Calvin Klein ck free was created by two perfumers and I won’t mention their names because Calvin Klein/Coty hiring noses to create ck free is like me hiring professional baker Elizabeth Falkner — then handing her a box of Duncan Hines cake mix as she walks into my kitchen to cook. ck free is so basic and formulaic no talent was needed to create it — it’s perfume-by-numbers…

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Parfum d’Empire Wazamba ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 16 September 2009 78 Comments

wazamba

When Parfum d’Empire’s Yuzu Fou and Aziyadé were released last year, I was excited. My excitement waned as soon as I wore the two perfumes. Yuzu Fou (with notes of yuzu, kumquat, orange/bigarade, mint, verbena, green bamboo, blond cedar, neroli, white musk) was my favorite — it provides a burst of bigarade (Seville orange) followed by a blast of cedar; all the ‘filigree’ I expected (mint, verbena, green bamboo) was missing in action. Yuzu Fou is pleasant but unthrilling (it reminds me of Frederic Malle Bigarade). Wearing Aziyadé, I felt as if my body had been dipped in milk and then dredged in cumin (I was ready for the frying pan). I felt attacked by, impregnated with CUMIN. Aziyadé’s cumin was downright hostile.

Parfum d’Empire’s latest release is Wazamba. I have no idea if a “wazamba” is a Bantu midwife, a Congo tribe, or, as Parfum d’Empire defines it: “a musical instrument often used in initiation ceremonies in Western Africa.” This being Parfum d’Empire, I’m just happy ‘Wazamba’ is not the name of a lost pirate empire whose members ate infants for breakfast and clubbed dodo birds into extinction…

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Tom Ford Grey Vetiver ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 11 September 2009 100 Comments

Henry Ossawa Tanner - study young manTom Ford Grey Vetiver fragrance bottle

Vetiver is in my veins. I use so many vetiver fragrances I’m sure detectable quantities of Chrysopogon zizanioides oil appear in my blood panels. Vetiver has such a hold on me, I believe it must have been one of the first fragrances I smelled as a baby. When I sniff vetiver, I feel warm, happy, calm, and contemplative. Tom Ford associates vetiver, as he does many of his favorite things, with money and power: “It is solid, like the man who wears a custom-made suit or invests in hand-crafted shoes.”1 That statement robs vetiver of all romance, and as I often feel while reading the worldly wit and wisdom of Tom Ford, I want to renounce my possessions, move to a mountaintop, set up house in a cave and own only a robe and a begging bowl. With Tom Ford, “money talks”…and talks, and talks some more.

(O.K. I admit while searching theTom Ford website for images to use in this review, I saw several coats from the fall/winter men’s collection that ignited the most unenlightened thing possible — Desire; perhaps I’m not quite ready for the hermitage.)

At any rate, Tom Ford’s coffers are continually growing…

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Tropical Duo: Lauder Men Brasil Dream for Him and Issey Miyake a scent by issey miyake ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 9 September 2009 42 Comments

Estee Lauder Brasil Dream for Him fragrance

Labor Day has come and gone, and here in Seattle we’re headed into autumn fast; this weekend was chilly and rainy. But down south (in the Southern Hemisphere) spring is about to arrive, and this winter many of us in the north will vacation in warmer climes to escape cold weather at home. As I sampled Lauder Men Brasil Dream for Him and Issey Miyake a scent by issey miyake this weekend, I was reminded it’s always toasty somewhere, and summery scents like these not only travel well to beach-y destinations but remind us of summer no matter where we are or what type of weather we’re enduring.

Lauder Men Brasil Dream for Him is reminiscent of older Comptoir Sud Pacifique fragrances (those developed before the Great Vanilla Wave splashed into every Comptoir Sud Pacifique perfume vat); Brasil Dream for Him reminds me of L’Eau du Gouverneur…but with more complexity. Brasil Dream for Him (perfumer unknown) contains kumquat, bergamot, coriander, cardamom, white pepper, neroli, nutmeg, cinnamon, oregano, patchouli, labdanum, jalapeño pepper, pimento and leather.

Brasil Dream for Him starts with the most delightful (but most fugitive) of citrus notes: kumquat…

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