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Browsing by author: Kevin

By Kilian Arabian Nights Pure Oud and Back to Black Aphrodisiac ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 4 November 2009 104 Comments

By Kilian Pure Oud

Last week, I read an interesting article in the New York Times1 regarding the falling prices of “premium” blue jeans; reporter Eric Wilson wrote: “The $300 pair of designer jeans is now, courtesy of the recession, the $200 pair of designer jeans.” And what does “premium” mean exactly — “…you had to pay a premium to wear them (the jeans) …. Designers found they could charge a lot for the perception of prestige.”

Niche perfume prices have increased dramatically over the last several years, but the higher prices don’t guarantee outstanding, strikingly original perfumes. Expensive fragrance lines justify their prices and lure consumers with: “rare” and “precious” ingredients; deluxe packaging; restricted availability; flattery (Connoisseurs of fine fragrance will recognize the brilliance of this perfume!); and prices so steep only the “Elite” (YOU!) can afford to buy them.

The NYT article concludes: “Like any commodity that becomes overpriced, there eventually comes a market correction.” While we’re waiting for that correction in the perfume realm, I’ll review two expensive By Kilian scents.

Pure Oud

Pure Oud is the first perfume in By Kilian’s “Arabian Nights” fragrance collection; it was developed by perfumer Calice Becker and lists notes of oud, saffron, copahu balm, amber, gaiac wood, cypriol, cistus labdanum, myrrh and animalic notes…

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Odin 01 Nomad, 02 Owari and 03 Century ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 28 October 2009 32 Comments

Odin 01 Nomad

New York retailer Odin has launched three new fragrances: 01 Nomad, 02 Owari and 03 Century. These scents inhabit the territory between modern, ‘fresh’ colognes and more traditional, rich and spicy perfumes; this “middle path” presents fragrances that are gauzy, quiet, warm and on the sweet side.

ODIN

01 Nomad

(juniper berries, cedar leaf, palmarosa, black pepper, tonka beans, sandalwood, bergamot, heliotrope, grey musk)

Tonka bean seems to be the fragrance note of the moment in men’s colognes…

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D.S. & Durga 1538 Rheims, Smoked Amber, East MidEast and Royal Purpure ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 21 October 2009 55 Comments

dsdurgalogo

Brooklyn-based perfumers D.S. & Durga were hired to create four new fragrances for Anthropologie. People who like their fragrances light, bright and “modern” may find these perfumes too heavy and “retro,” but I have a taste for ‘liquor-y’, natural-smelling, artisanal fragrances of this type. I was pleasantly surprised that Anthropologie chose perfumes that match the vintage/quirky style of its clothes, furniture and house wares.

1538 Rheims

(iris, ginger lily, patchouli, musk)

Judging from the reactions here at Now Smell This, patchouli is a love-it-or-hate-it perfume oil, so let me start by saying 1538 Rheims is basically an invigorating patchouli fragrance. 1538 Rheims presents resinous, dense patchouli — not modern, cleaned-up, re-configured patchouli…

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Tom Ford White Musk Collection: Urban Musk, White Suede, Jasmine Musk & Musk Pure ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 14 October 2009 64 Comments

Tom Ford Private Blend White Musk Collection

In my “perfume notebook,” I found an entry from last January: “Always drenched in musky cologne, he smelled like a mixture of excrement and flowers.” Judging from my wobbly writing, this note was written at night in bed. I was not alert enough to record the book this sentence came from and when I think of the books I read last winter, there are several candidates — all dealing with personalities and events of the French Revolution. The courtier who loved musk back in the 1700s would not believe Tom Ford’s modern “musk” fragrances contain “musk” at all; the Ford musk fragrances are pristine, far removed from musk sacs, anal glands and the like.

The White Musk Collection’s four new perfumes add a lighter, feminine character to the richer, more masculine, Private Blend line-up. These new “white” musk fragrances are sheer and have been put through the hot wash cycle, twice, to remove anything “dirty” or animalic. (In fact, it seems most of the musk went out with the rinse water.)

Urban Musk

(jasmine sambac, white pepper, ambrette seed absolute, cumin, musk, honey, black plum, incense, Tonkin musk headspace, benzoin)

Urban Musk opens with green-ish jasmine…

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Coach for Men ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 7 October 2009 52 Comments

carriages

Shortly after graduating from college with a degree in English literature, I decided I should, like so many other graduates I knew, “go into sales.” I got a job at a public relations company and was assigned “non-profit/government accounts” (not exactly the money-making and glamorous clients I had envisaged). My first appointment was at a busy, city police precinct. I arrived for my meeting with the police department’s media relations specialist at the same time an infamous rapist had been brought in for booking. News reporters swarmed the building and my contact paid scant attention to what I had to say or what my company had to offer. I felt rather puny in that environment, especially as I looked at the P.R. guy’s tanned, bulging biceps…his upper arms were almost the size of my thighs. He left the room “for a second” and never came back. After waiting way too long for him to return, I snuck out of the building.

Almost all my appointments were in some way or other embarrassing and unproductive, and my sales career ended within a month. I was left with two expensive souvenirs from those uncomfortable and futile weeks: a “business” suit (long ago donated to charity) and a Coach attaché. The attaché still resides, wrapped in a soft cotton t-shirt, on the top shelf of my bedroom closet; it’s taken out for moisturizing once a year.

At the time I bought my attaché, Coach’s goods were considered high quality but a bit stodgy. These days, Coach is hipper…

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