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Browsing by author: Kevin

Diptyque Benjoin (Benzoin) Holiday Candle ~ home fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 9 December 2009 65 Comments

Diptyque Benjoin Holiday Candle

If you’ve read even a tiny selection of my articles on this blog, you probably know I adore benzoin. My love affair with benzoin began with incense. Long ago, I bought benzoin-scented incense cones from a company that supplied incense to churches, and I enjoyed the benzoin fragrance so much I purchased Siam benzoin “tears” (appropriately named since a wounded tree produces the scented resin). I still heat benzoin tears in little tin cups on an electric burner to release their smoky-sweet aroma throughout my house.

Diptyque’s Benjoin candle is strongly scented; even its empty box (a month after purchase) is perfuming a large closet in my bedroom. Diptyque Benjoin is a simple benzoin perfume; it reminds me of Papier d’Arménie, and it also brings to mind Guerlain Bois d’Arménie (but with less complexity, of course). Unlit, Benjoin smells like vanilla bean liqueur aged in old wooden casks…

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Etro Vetiver ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 2 December 2009 55 Comments

Etro Vetiver cologne

My first niche perfume purchase was a bottle of Etro Vetiver Eau de Cologne way back in 1990. I bought Vetiver, along with some wonderful Etro soaps, at Etro’s Beverly Hills boutique, and I became an instant Etro fragrance fan. Over the years, I’ve owned several bottles of Etro Vetiver, Sandalo and Magot; I’ve also enjoyed bottles of Messe de Minuit (the fragrance that helped launch the Incense Revolution in perfumery) and Patchouly. In the early Nineties, Etro’s perfumes smelled exciting, rich and different to my baby “department store-trained” nose and a new, expensive, niche perfume passion was born. Etro led to Comptoir Sud Pacifique, which led to Jean-François Laporte (L’Artisan Parfumeur), which led to Creed, which led to Czech & Speake, which led to Penhaligon’s…on and on to this day.

Etro Vetiver, by perfumer Jacques Flori, was released in 1989 and lists notes of artemisia, clary sage, cypress, cedar, tobacco and Bourbon vetiver. Etro Vetiver opens with green artemisia and sage; the herbal, forest-y notes are strong and clear — invigorating…

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Annick Goutal Noel Home Spray ~ home fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 25 November 2009 72 Comments

Annick Goutal Noel Home Spray

For me, Christmas should smell like my childhood holidays; it should smell like dessert. My family’s stove was in near-constant use from Thanksgiving through New Year’s Day and at least half of its output was sweets. My grandmother, with her arms of steel (she kneaded dough twice a day — all year round — so we could have fresh bread for lunch and dinner), would mix, chop, shave, dice, grate, squeeze and roll her way through pounds of flour, sugar, butter, lard, chocolate, nuts, fruits and spices; her creations would scent the house. Whenever I smell molasses, allspice, nutmeg, or ginger, I think “Christmas!” It’s a wonder I’m not the size of a house since I spent my childhood feasting on cakes, puddings, pies, candy, cookies and jams. But as much as I love to gorge on (and smell) sweets, I dislike perfumes, candles and room sprays with a pronounced “dessert” theme. I’d much rather smell gingerbread baking in the oven than the scent of “gingerbread” emanating from a candle.

To fragrance my home during the holidays, I turn to another favorite category of “Christmas” scents: evergreens…

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Ego Facto Piege a Filles, Sacre Coeur and Jamais le Dimanche ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 18 November 2009 55 Comments

Ego Facto fragrance bottles

Ego Facto (Paris) was founded by Pierre Aulas, who is described on the Ego Facto website as a “free spirit and olfactory expert.” Aulas feels he is a “conductor” working with “virtuosos” (perfumers) in the creation of the Ego Facto fragrances. Aulas says: “Ego Facto is my tribute to self affirmation, to the acceptance of one’s own contradictions. It is a declaration of freedom.” I’m ‘translating’ that to mean Aulas develops perfumes that appeal to him — he doesn’t have to worry about pleasing a corporate board, focus groups, or design teams. I assume the Ego Facto perfumes smell just like Monsieur Aulas wants them to smell.

Piège à Filles (Girl Trap)

(citrus, heliotrope, almond, cumin, orange blossom, tobacco, musk, vetiver)

Piège à Filles smells like a distorted, old-fashioned barbershop powder; the scents of heliotrope, orange blossom, scorched almond and cumin mix to create a “difficult” accord…

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Ineke Field Notes from Paris ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 11 November 2009 63 Comments

Ineke Field Notes from Paris perfume

San Francisco-based Ineke has just released Field Notes from Paris, their sixth fragrance. Field Notes from Paris is a perfect bookend to my year’s perfume reviews; like February’s John Varvatos Artisan (the first 2009 perfume release I enjoyed), Field Notes from Paris is an immediately likeable — and interesting — orange blossom-centered fragrance.

I’ve struggled to describe Field Notes from Paris’s effect, so I’ll use a “piano” to help me. Since orange blossom is ‘active’ throughout Field Notes from Paris’s development, think of it as the piano’s sustain pedal. Now imagine the other 10 listed fragrance notes (bergamot, coriander seed, tobacco flower, tobacco leaf, patchouli, cedar, tonka bean, leather, beeswax, vanilla) as piano keys: middle C up to A. Hold down the sustain pedal (orange blossom) and begin playing an uncomplicated tune using the ten piano keys (perhaps a melody by John Cage?) The musical notes, blending together, producing moments of beauty, moments of dissonance, are like Field Notes from Paris’s fragrance notes…

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