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Browsing by author: Kevin

Comme des Garcons Series 1: Leaves, Tea ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 10 February 2010 80 Comments

Commes des Garcons Parfums Series 1:Leaves, Tea

Smelling Comme des Garçons Series 1: Leaves, Tea revved up my imagination; I’ll consult a psychologist to figure out why the following scenario came to mind:

Fresh off the assembly line, still warm from the conveyor belt, G.I. Joe and Ken (I should say one G.I. Joe and one Ken out of hundreds of G.I. Joes and Kens) spot each other.

Ken: “He’s cute…so tan….”

G.I. Joe: “That guy’s handsome. Wait, is he wearing false eyelashes!?”

After introducing themselves, the two dolls agree to meet for a date at Tango Barbie’s new Argentine café: Té!Té!Olé!

Later that day…

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La Via del Profumo Balsamo della Mecca ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 3 February 2010 61 Comments

Middle Eastern perfumes are intense and often leave a trail behind the wearer that a well-trained, or even a lazy, dog can track for days. Hansel and Gretel should have ditched the breadcrumbs and worn an Arabian fragrance to find their way back home. (sniff, sniff…“We came THIS way!”) One either adores such perfumes, or shuns them. I adore them and that’s appropriate with the new La Via del Profumo Balsamo della Mecca because adoration was part of its creation: it was inspired by a trip perfumer Dominique Dubrana took to Mecca during Hajj.

Balsamo della Mecca contains natural notes of cistus labdanum, frankincense, benzoin, agarwood, tonka bean, tobacco, Indian tuberose and Damask rose. Balsamo della Mecca begins with rich, ‘leather-y’ labdanum and smoky frankincense. As the fragrance develops, interesting facets emerge — accords that smell of unsweetened cinnamon, “cola” and musky tobacco. The fragrance is dense and only lightens after hours of wear when the notes seem to “dry out” and turn powdery — a lovely phase when frankincense and benzoin/tonka predominate…

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Top 10 Winter Fragrances 2010

Posted by Kevin on 29 January 2010 119 Comments

I take advantage of the cold-weather months and pour on amber-rich, resinous, incense-y, musky, and powdery perfumes (known as “gasp-inducers” in hot weather) but I also use perfumes to help me forget winter woes — my flowerless garden, chill-induced headaches, spark-filled hair, and dry-as-bone skin (citrus and florals…come hither). My top-ten list of winter fragrances is, of course, personal, and far from definitive; these are simply perfumes I’m enjoying this winter.

I usually wear “sharp”/herbal amber fragrances such as Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan and Tom Ford Amber Absolute, but it’s nice to have a classic amber scent handy as well. Enter Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114 (with notes of patchouli, cedar, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, benzoin, and musk). Like many amber perfumes of its type, Ambre 114’s soft and sweet aromas transport me to a particular “scene” (a snowy twilight landscape viewed from inside a warm, dim room) and state of mind (contented…but nostalgic too). I suppose that means amber scents make me feel safe and comfortable and, perhaps, remind me of someone time has erased from my life.

Aesop Mystra is bold — and a bit severe…

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Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 27 January 2010 51 Comments

How unlucky for perfume lovers to live in an era when Mysore sandalwood has disappeared from fragrances. Let’s hope the over-harvested and endangered sandalwood trees of India are truly being protected and propagated for future generations. According to Serge Lutens P.R., the company bought its stash of Mysore sandalwood before stringent trade regulations went into effect, and it’s this “legal” Mysore sandalwood that supposedly enriches the Lutens perfume of the same name.

Santal de Mysore was developed by perfumer Christopher Sheldrake and released in 2001. I never smelled “original” Santal de Mysore so I don’t know how it compares to the new, surely reformulated, fragrance. Today’s Santal de Mysore contains, apart from Mysore sandalwood, “spices,” cumin, styrax balsam and “caramelized” Siamese benzoin.

Santal de Mysore starts off smelling edible, with a nougat-y and coconut-cream sweetness emanating from a faint “wood” note…

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Comme des Garcons + Monocle Scent Two: Laurel ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 20 January 2010 32 Comments

Laurel leaves

The traditional, hand-made soaps of the Middle East are rustic (often brown and wrapped simply in wax paper), heavy (drop a full-size bar on your toes in the shower and you may be headed to the ER) and pungent with the aromas of plant oils and seeds — cumin, nigella, olive, bay laurel. The famous soaps of Aleppo, Syria, are olive oil based and fragranced with bay laurel (laurus nobilis), and they are one of the inspirations, along with the Lebanese landscape, for Comme des Garçons + Monocle Scent Two: Laurel — henceforth referred to as “Laurel.”

Laurel was developed by perfumer Antoine Maisondieu and contains bay laurel, incense, cedar, pepper, patchouli and amber. Laurel starts off smelling green and herbal — like a bruised or crushed fresh bay laurel leaf. Quickly, Laurel’s bracing green aroma is joined by “coarse” black pepper and smoky frankincense. In Laurel’s base, the original bay laurel scent (a perfume in and of itself) darkens and is joined by musty-sweet cedar. Then, something wonderful happens: Laurel’s notes combine to produce an accord that smells like one of my favorite flowers — marigold…

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