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Browsing by author: Kevin

Histoires de Parfums 1740 Marquis de Sade ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 17 March 2010 92 Comments

Histoires de Parfums 1740 Marquis de Sade

Once upon a time, I wanted to be an ‘intellectual.’ I imagined myself with a Franz Liszt haircut, clothed in jeans, ankle boots, turtlenecks and tight sports jackets. Apart from my intellectual appearance, I knew I’d need at least one doctoral degree, and I realized I’d have to digest every “worthy” book written. So, one summer, I decided to read the complete works of the Marquis de Sade. I started my project by reading two biographies of the marquis, and then I turned my attention to many critical essays and assessments of his writings.

After reading Sade’s critics and biographers, I was expecting to be shocked, astounded, thrilled and “enlightened” by his literary output. Instead, Sade’s stories of torture, his endless diatribes against religion, his sexual fantasies involving pain, incest, degradation, humiliation and murder numbed me. Reading the Marquis de Sade’s dully written, repetitive tales made me sleepy and after awhile I began to laugh heartily at the absurdity of him and what he “preached.” His philosophy didn’t appeal to (or interest) me. I was definitely not Sade’s audience (and, I thought, perhaps not “intellectual material” after all).

The Marquis de Sade spent almost 30 years of his life in one prison or another…

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Boadicea the Victorious Invigorating ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 10 March 2010 59 Comments

Boadicea the Victorious Invigorating

Summer is: abundance, freedom, heat. Light citrus colognes are a “necessity” in hot, muggy weather, but it’s also good to have a big, brassy summer fragrance for cool nights, mild breezy days and body-numbing, overly-air-conditioned environments, a scent full of summer flowers, resins, as well as citrus. For me, that summer powerhouse scent is Boadicea the Victorious Invigorating.

When I read Invigorating’s list of notes, two notes in particular made me wince: dark chocolate and black licorice. I do NOT like chocolaty perfumes and licorice? Don’t put licorice in my food, drink or on my person, please. So, why is it that Invigorating has become one of my favorite fragrances?

Invigorating contains, apart from dark chocolate and black licorice, yuzu, bergamot, orange, rose geranium, jasmine, fir, rock rose and ambergris. The fragrance starts off with dense and sweet yuzu-orange “syrup.” After the rich and distinctive opening, Invigorating’s notes are well blended. I detect a touch of licorice, a hint of chocolate, but neither are big players in the scent…

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Parfumerie Generale No. 24, Papyrus de Ciane ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 3 March 2010 70 Comments

Ophelia

Bring on the stems, leaves, grasses — I’m always in the mood for ‘green’ fragrances. Green-tinged perfumes are refreshing and often “cool” in tone; they convey the idea of “growth,” especially new growth of plants. Spring is the perfect time for a green cologne to debut, and I’ve been looking forward to smelling Parfumerie Generale Papyrus de Ciane (No. 24).

Perfumer Pierre Guillaume has gotten a lot of online media coverage for Papyrus de Ciane and much of it references his use of a legendary component of early 20th century fragrances: Mousse de Saxe. I’ll let others discuss the chemical composition of Mousse de Saxe and its reconfiguration for Papyrus de Ciane; my only “concern” is: How does Papyrus de Ciane smell on me?

Papyrus de Ciane’s “published” list of notes is varied (online at Parfumerie Generale only five components are mentioned: galbanum, broom, mild plant note, Mousse de Saxe, Silvanone® Supra (musk); in interviews, Guillaume has also mentioned bergamot, neroli, mugwort, cistus labdanum, lavender, clove, vetiver, incense and hedione.

Papyrus de Ciane begins with a mix of citrus, “white flowers” and delicious and strong galbanum (the galbanum crystallizes and turns soft and powdery fast); Papyrus de Ciane’s green notes are not wild and sharp…

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Odori Tabacco ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 24 February 2010 92 Comments

Odori Tabacco

Dogs have been a big part of my life. My first baby pictures feature a series of photos with Snowball, my aunt’s black (yes, Aunt Lois had a sense of humor) Cocker Spaniel. In those shots, Snowball has her tongue up my nose, in my ears and all round my mouth. (Ah, the long-ago days when the fear of germs didn’t rule our lives.) Judging from the pictures, I remained calm during Snowball’s onslaught.

How many dogs have I known by name? I stopped counting today at 40…the list is too long. I’ve known worthy dogs, wacko dogs, giant dogs and mini-dogs. My face has been kissed by dogs; my legs have been humped by dogs; and I, and my dogs, were bitten by “bad” dogs (I’ve already written about Shaggy). I still love dogs!

The last two canines in my life were Don Diego de Fontana (a pug) and The Hon. Brenda Catchpole (English bulldog). Since their “departures,” I miss their scent in my home. Over the years, I tried to identify the combination of aromas that comprised my dogs…

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Infusion Organique Buddha’s Fig ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 17 February 2010 43 Comments

Buddha Sunset

Ancient Egyptians believed sycamore trees grew on the border between the land of the living and the realm of the dead. Greek myths tell of humans transformed into trees. In Japan, pine trees represent longevity (even immortality) but cherry trees’ fleeting blossoms are a reminder that life is brief. Where I live, several Northwest Coast Indian tribes carve clan histories into revered cedar wood, creating large totem poles and house posts. I’ve always loved the story of Siddhartha Gautama reaching enlightenment (and becoming the Buddha) while meditating in the shade of the Bodhi Tree at Bodh Gaya in India.

Trees are interesting as cultural and religious symbols, but they’re also beautiful plants whose bark, wood, roots, resins, leaves and fruit make perfumes smell “divine.” Infusion Organique Buddha’s Fig Eau de Parfum was inspired by a particular Bodhi tree — the ancient Sri Maha Bodhi located in Sri Lanka.

Buddha’s Fig contains certified organic fig extract, rose geranium, lemongrass oil, hyacinth, iris, wood, and amber. Buddha’s Fig begins with notes of fig leaf and “green”/barely opened hyacinth flowers…

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