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Browsing by author: Kevin

Costume National Homme ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 23 June 2010 30 Comments

Costume National Homme fragrance

I like Costume National clothes, but their perfumes haven’t thrilled me. When I read last year’s announcements regarding Costume National’s new men’s fragrance, Homme, I wasn’t excited and didn’t bother to order a sample of the perfume. As often happens in the fragrance world, others took it upon themselves to send me little vials of Homme, and I’m glad they did.

Homme, created by perfumer Dominique Ropion, is a close relative of Comme des Garçons Series 3, Incense fragrances (woody/resinous with sweet/spicy facets) and it’s practically a “twin” of Eau d’Italie Baume du Doge. Homme includes notes of grapefruit, bergamot, cardamom, cinnamon, thyme, clove, patchouli, sandalwood and labdanum.

Costume National Homme is a well-blended fragrance; the opening is a bit liquor-y with dense citrus melding quickly with spices: cardamom at first, then clove, cinnamon and dried thyme. I am not a fan of many clove/cinnamon scents; any perfume that smells overwhelmingly of clove/carnations or Red Hots will annoy and, for some reason yet to be figured out, depress me…

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Masculinity by Intense ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 16 June 2010 74 Comments

Sargent drawings

Masculinity by Intense (a.k.a. “N10Z”) is a pheromone fragrance designed to enhance “male-to-male” attraction. I’ve never understood pheromone perfumes. I naturally secrete pheromones, so why do I need to add more pheromones to my body with a fragrance? If pheromones encourage others to come my way, does adding extra pheromones to my person provide too much of a good thing? Will the Human Hurricane of Pheromones I’ll become by wearing a pheromone-rich fragrance make people want to know me…or devour me? Can wearing a pheromone perfume be dangerous?

If Val Lewton were alive I’d pitch him a movie: Fatal Attractant

Place: Coastal university town

Who/What: A lonely (and lazy) gay science professor, Mr. Y, concocts a pheromone spray that will render him enticing to other gay men At first, the pheromone spray works: men notice him, chat him up. Then…his clothes disappear from the clothesline; peeping toms stare into his home; male students loiter at his university office door. As Mr. Y’s natural pheromones interact with the laboratory-made pheromone spray, things go awry; everywhere he goes he is followed, groped, manhandled. Mr. Y’s auto insurance rates rise as men in speeding cars ram into his bumper…

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Laura Tonatto Eleonora Duse ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 10 June 2010 50 Comments

Eleonora Duse

When asked by a reporter — “What’s your favorite perfume?” — the Italian stage actress Eleonora Duse replied that such questions were “ridiculous and puerile.” 1 Duse avoided the press whenever possible and felt an actress “must not attract attention when she’s not on stage…an actress must pass through life unobserved.” 2 If Duse were alive and working today, I’m betting there would be no “Eleonora Duse” celebrity fragrance on the market. But it’s good, in the 21st century, to see or hear the name Eleonora Duse because she was such a cultural force in her lifetime.

Duse started acting at the age of four in her family’s theatrical troupe. As a child, she was often forced to beg on the streets, but Duse went on to become one of the most famous actors in the world. Using the theory of “six degrees of separation,” I feel a small connection to Duse. Right out of high school, I went to New York to study acting with Stella Adler, who was a student of Konstantin Stanislavsky, who said that he “got his inspiration for founding the Moscow Art Theatre from witnessing a performance of Duse’s.”3

At a time when actors assumed histrionic, unnatural poses, declaimed their dialogue, and displayed their own personalities on stage, Duse was different…

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Astier de Villatte Delhi candle ~ home fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 6 June 2010 33 Comments

I love incense, but during the last few years, when I burn incense inside the house, the smoke causes me to have sore throats, red eyes…and sneezing cats. I still enjoy incense, but in less “traditional” ways: I burn it outside — on the deck or in the garden; I place open boxes of incense into trunks, closets and cabinets where the sticks and cones scent the spaces for years; I wear incense powders and perfumes; and I burn incense-scented candles.

When it comes to perfumed candles, I mostly buy “French.” Diptyque makes up for its troubles with manufacture (off-center wicks, wax that does not burn evenly) by producing candles in a variety of interesting scents — and the last several Diptyque candles I’ve bought have been generously perfumed. Cire Trudon offers gorgeous scented candles (using perfume-quality fragrances) inside lovely green or red hand-blown glass jars (no phony — “sprayed-on” — colors for their glass containers!)

I thought Cire Trudon made the ultimate candles till I ordered some Astier de Villatte candles from Paris. If I were standing between a crate of Cire Trudon candles and a crate of Astier de Villatte candles and was told: “Choose one crate!” I’d probably pass out from rapid back-and-forth head movements…

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Burberry Sport For Men and Gucci by Gucci Sport pour Homme ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 2 June 2010 29 Comments

Burberry Sport For Men and Gucci by Gucci Sport pour Homme

Ah, sport fragrances — (almost) universally hated by PerfumeFanatics© and apparently adored by, and selling like hotcakes to, the rest of society. For perfumers, being asked to formulate a sport fragrance for the mainstream market must be like Martha Argerich being asked to play the C major scale (right hand only) — easy work! And with sport perfumes, the ease smells; these fragrances are, for the most part, interchangeable and have no interesting facets (only the bottles and designer names are unique). This spring, Burberry and Gucci are but two companies involved in major sport fragrance launches.

Burberry Sport for Men

Christopher Bailey, Burberry’s chief creative officer, said: “I wanted it (Burberry Sport for Men) to feel like there was movement in the scent. I kept saying I wanted it zingy; I wanted to feel alive; I wanted to feel like it’s jumping.” 1 Burberry Sport for Men was developed by perfumers Sonia Constant, Nathalie Gracia-Cetto and Antoine Maisondieu and contains notes of “frosted ginger,” grapefruit, wheatgrass, marine notes, juniper berry, red ginger, white musks, cedar, woods and “dry amber.”

Burberry Sport for Men starts off soapy, sweet and gingery, with a clean grapefruit note. The gingers in Burberry Sport are more spicy-candied (think preserved ginger or strong ginger ale) than fresh and rooty. There is also a light and indistinct floral character in the soapy opening. As the scent goes into its mid-phase of development it becomes a bit “astringent” (bracing and “cool” but not strident); the dry-down returns to the sweetness of the opening notes with hints of pale wood, light musk and soft ambergris. Though Burberry Sport follows the sport scent trajectory, it’s mellower than most sport fragrances on the market…

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