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Browsing by author: Kevin

Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 1 September 2010 17 Comments

Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza

Acqua di Parma has “re-styled” original Colonia* (introduced in 1916) to produce the brand new Colonia Essenza. I’ve recently seen Colonia Essenza in two big department stores: Holt Renfrew in Vancouver, B.C., and Nordstrom in downtown Seattle. Holt Renfrew sells the fragrance only in the men’s department; but so far, Nordstrom displays Colonia Essenza with women’s fragrances — even though there’s an Acqua di Parma section in the men’s perfume boutique. Colonia Essenza is, in stores and online, sometimes referred to as a men’s fragrance and other times as a women’s perfume, but I think Colonia Essenza is a classic cologne-for-all…even children can wear it.

Colonia Essenza includes notes of bergamot, tangerine, lemon, orange, grapefruit, petitgrain, neroli, clove, rosemary, lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, patchouli, vetiver, white musk and amber. Colonia Essenza starts off smelling like a crisp orange blossom Eau de Cologne. As orange blossom fades, warm, but still pert, citrus peel aromas appear and lead directly to Colonia Essenza’s floral heart notes…

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Odin 04 Petrana ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 25 August 2010 31 Comments

Odin Petrana

The Jordanian desert — and the national flower of Jordan, the black-blossomed Iris petrana — are the inspirations for Odin 04 Petrana, a new unisex perfume created by perfumer Jean-Claude Delville. I think of “desert scents” as being dry and austere — smelling of “wood dust,” pungent grasses, sharp spices, warm incense ash. (Perhaps I’m being too literal?) 04 Petrana is not “gritty,” dry or “hot.” If 04 Petrana conjures anything desert-related, it’s a moist, flowery oasis. 04 Petrana is a lush perfume.

04 Petrana includes fragrance notes of deep purple cassis, pink pepper, herbaceous coriander, black iris, violet leaf, heliotrope, wild orris root, vetiver, and white musk. 04 Petrana opens with sweet cassis (think cassis cordial, not fresh berries); this smooth, sugared cassis note lasts throughout the life of the fragrance and adds a cheeriness to the composition. As cassis calms, I smell whiffs of citrus-y, green coriander, high-quality violet leaf, and an “undulating” and “wet” iris-violet accord (strong one minute, soft the next). The floral aspect of 04 Petrana is augmented with ‘fresh’ heliotrope — a note that complements both the opening floral accord and 04 Petrana’s slightly powdery base of pepper, vetiver, (cedar-y) wood and light musk.

The first time I smelled 04 Petrana it brought to mind another favorite scent of mine…

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Bleu de Chanel ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 18 August 2010 112 Comments

Bleu de Chanel

After finishing In Search of Lost Time, I spent several weeks reading nothing but my old children’s books and fashion and travel magazines. Sometimes, following days of eating rich and spicy foods, all I crave is a sliced cucumber or tomato drizzled with rice vinegar. As hot weather arrives, I like to pour on Eaux de Cologne and let their sparkly, invigorating notes “cleanse” my sense of smell of its winter residue of incense, amber, vanilla and leather perfumes.

We all (most of us) like, and need, variety in our lives — and in our rotation of perfumes. I could never wear only “natural” fragrances or rely on one perfume house for my perfume ‘needs’. I can’t stick with one genre of scent: say, vetivers, ambers or chypres. BUT: I didn’t think my need for change would ever take me into the blue-bleu world of marine-sport fragrances….

Bleu de Chanel is Chanel’s “first major male fragrance since 2004’s Allure Homme Sport and its first men’s master brand since 1990’s Egoïste.”* Even though Bleu de Chanel is not geared to a particular demographic/age-group, Chanel hopes this fragrance will broaden its appeal with young men. Bleu de Chanel was created by Chanel’s in-house perfumer Jacques Polge and it contains notes of citrus (bergamot, lemon, grapefruit), “deep blue sea” accord, peppermint, pink pepper, nutmeg, ginger, jasmine, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, labdanum and frankincense…

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Agonist The Infidels ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 5 August 2010 69 Comments

Agonist The Infidels perfume

There’s a new trend in niche fragrances: expensive presentation bottles filled with reasonably priced perfumes — perfumes that can only be bought at the “reasonable price” after the initial “trophy bottle” purchase. Agonist Parfums, based in Sweden, is one such (what I’ll call) “niche-niche” perfumery; it specializes in “unique fragrances embraced by handcrafted Swedish glass.”

Agonist Parfums highlights its perfume presentation as much as it does its perfumes. I wonder if Agonist’s sales would increase greatly if their perfumes could be bought without the deluxe bottles? (Or is Agonist really geared towards glass collectors who like a splash of hard-to-find perfume with their glassware?)

The Infidels, purchased with the bottle shown above, costs $495 (when you buy The Infidels perfume for the first time, the scent is contained in a separate bottle until you decant it into the “presentation” bottle). After your bottle is empty, you can use your special customer registration number to buy a refill (50 ml Eau de Parfum for $90). When paying almost $500 (unless price is not a concern), one must really love and want The Infidels bottle as much as the perfume. I really like The Infidels fragrance, but I can live without the bottle, so I’ll never own this perfume…

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Ralph Lauren Big Pony Fragrance Collection ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 3 August 2010 66 Comments

I’ve never had much luck with Ralph Lauren fragrances. I like Polo and used to wear Monogram (discontinued long ago), but no other Ralph Lauren cologne has excited me. The new Big Pony Fragrance Collection, aimed at 18-30-year-old men, isn’t cutting-edge, but all four fragrances are well-made and perfectly formulated for their target audience: young men who — from what I see and hear in the shops and smell on the streets — don’t want “weird” perfumes, but prefer familiar-smelling, not-too-complex, clean/fresh fragrances.

Big Pony No. 1 (the “sporty” offering of the collection, in the blue bottle) is one of my Big Pony favorites; it lists only notes of lime and grapefruit, but I detect strong lemon peel-bergamot during its opening. After the lemon-bergamot burns off, I smell an aromatic lime-grapefruit accord that reminds me of a drink made of one part spicy ginger ale to one part Fresca (lime wedge squeezed on top). Big Pony No. 1 is “fizzy,” crisp, refreshing and clean with only the tiniest driblet of light musk in the extreme dry-down…

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