• About
  • Login to comment
    • Bluesky
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Archives
Browsing by author: Kevin

Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight in Paris Pour Homme ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 11 November 2010 46 Comments

What does midnight in Paris smell like? In spring and summer, the warm atmosphere heightens the scents of grass, earth, and flowers in the gardens; aromas of food and drink waft from bistros and cafes. Year-round one smells cigarette smoke, exhaust fumes, cologne on passersby …and dog turds. I don’t remember midnight in Paris smelling like tonka beans, but judging by Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight in Paris Pour Homme, tonka beans perfume the Seine, the fountains, the air.

tonka beansTonka bean is on the verge of becoming the “new violet leaf” in men’s fragrances; it’s everywhere. I bought some tonka beans (Dipteryx odorata) from a local herbal apothecary and perfumery so I could smell the real thing (1 oz of tonka beans costs around $2.50). Tonka beans smell a lot like (musky-nutty) vanilla and are used in the making of desserts as well as in perfumes (when I smell tonka beans I think of nougats, frostings, sweet syrups, custards). In the U.S., tonka beans, which contain coumarin, have been banned from use in foods since 1954 due to their blood-thinning properties, but that hasn’t stopped chefs from using the fragrant beans.

Midnight in Paris Pour Homme is billed as a “floral-leather” fragrance…

Read the rest of this article »

Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Terrible ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 3 November 2010 38 Comments

Le Mâle Terrible by Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier has just launched Le Mâle Terrible, a flanker to Le Mâle (released 15 years ago). Le Mâle Terrible’s ads still feature a “sailor” but the bottle now comes with a razor blade around its neck (the “terrible” aspect). Apart from the razor blade, there’s talk of “attack” and “overdose” in the PR materials, but given Le Mâle Terrible’s cocky, super-clean, costumed model (hairier than his bald Le Mâle predecessor), one knows all this terrible stuff is tongue-in-cheek, not blade-in-neck (or nose).

Le Mâle Terrible goes on like a “tonic”…reviving, cooling; I smell grapefruit and peppery lavender, a touch of geranium leaf. Then, Le Mâle Terrible turns all smooth and creamy with coumarin, ghostly orange blossom (or a “white” floral), and rich vanilla/tonka and vetiver notes. In the extreme dry down, residual grapefruit, vetiver and cedar meld and create a slightly “sweat-y” accord — one has to get close to skin to detect it…

Read the rest of this article »

Boadicea the Victorious Explorer ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 27 October 2010 36 Comments

Temple of Nikko, Japan

The pounding rains have arrived in Seattle, and the winds, blowing into town from the Pacific, are stripping the trees of their beautifully colored fall leaves. My poor house-bound cats don’t know whether to blame me, each other, or their nemesis — mean girl (cat) Donatella from next door — for the wet, slippery balcony, the absence of interesting birds to watch, and the non-stop twinkling of the tiny brass Thai bells that hang from each corner of my house. We’re all stuck inside: bored and feeling a bit soggy. We’re in a mood.

The cats are shifting their focus to the comforts of the indoors: finding warm, soft places to nap and stalking treats instead of birds, moths, spiders and falling leaves. Me? I’ll read more, listen to music, and perhaps…go through the 200+ sample vials of perfume in my “to review” box on my desk.

This week, I didn’t know what to write about…

Read the rest of this article »

Tauer Perfumes Carillon pour un ange ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 20 October 2010 89 Comments

Tauer Carillon pour un ange + Jean Harlow

When I think of recent Tauer Perfumes launches (Eau d’Épices and Une Rose Vermeille), I think of Lady Gaga’s costumes and all things “radioactive.” These attention-seeking perfumes, with the half-life of uranium-235, are bombshells: once applied to skin and clothes their effects last (almost) forever — through showers, baths, heavy-duty laundry cycles, and dry-cleanings. The scents wear ME, and during the course of a day, they wear me out (I get tired of their non-stop blare). Yet, I couldn’t resist trying Carillon pour un ange*, Andy Tauer’s homage to lily of the valley (one of my favorite flower scents). How would Tauer create such a delicate aroma?

Carillon pour un ange’s list of notes includes lilac, rose, ylang-ylang, green lily of the valley accord, jasmine, leather, ambergris, moss and woods. Carillon pour un ange starts off with a tropical-smelling, floral accord that reminds me of plumeria (probably a mix of rose and strong, sweet lilac) — with some added “greens.” There is a certain old-fashioned, creamy aspect to the opening; I detected a familiar scent from my past, and it took me awhile to “get” it: Jergens® lotion! (Since I haven’t smelled Jergens body lotion in at least ten years, I can’t vouch for the accuracy of this comparison with today’s Jergens formula…or should I say formulas …there are at least 15 moisturizers in the current line!)

During mid-development, Carillon pour un ange smells like one of my favorite fragrance combos…

Read the rest of this article »

Amouage Memoir Man ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 13 October 2010 59 Comments

Amouage Memoir Man fragrance

Amouage creative director Christopher Chong aimed for something truly great with his two latest fragrances — Memoir Man and Memoir Woman: “to unlock the unfathomable mysteries that reside within human nature.” Well! It’s certainly not the usual perfume goal of “we aim to move 2 million units during the first twelve months of our launch.” In the Amouage “Memoir” PR brew, there’s mention of Baudelaire, Les Fleurs du mal, a “Black Swan” (Memoir Woman), and absinth (perhaps quaffed as much as used as an ingredient during the Memoir creative process?)

Memoir Man, described as a leather-woody-fougère fragrance, contains notes of wormwood/absinth, basil, mint, frankincense, rose, lavender, vetiver, sandalwood, guaiac wood, amber, vanilla, musk, oakmoss, leather and tobacco; it was developed by perfumer Karine Vinchon who I “met” a few weeks ago as I sampled her L’Artisan Coeur de Vétiver Sacré .

Memoir Man begins with a slightly musty, yet creamy, wormwood scent mixed with ‘cool’ mint. As the herbal opening develops…

Read the rest of this article »

« Newer articles
Older articles »

Advertisement

Search

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

6 January ~ damage poll

31 January ~ winter reading poll

Back to Top

Home
Archives
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Books

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2026 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.