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Browsing by author: Kevin

Aesop Marrakech and Mystra ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 26 January 2011 43 Comments

We all have a favorite locale (or two) where a combination of climate, landscape, architecture, and aromas makes us happy. I love stormy coastlines, with raging oceans, billowing clouds, screeching gulls, old lighthouses, and the scents of rain, salt, mossy rocks, and seaweed. But I also love the ambiance of the exact opposite of a wet beach — warm, sunny, semi-arid hilltops, covered with flowering broom and poppies, where cypress trees reach up into blue skies and fragrance the air. (Add an abandoned cemetery, the cinder scents of a nearby active volcano, or some crumbling statues and buildings — an ancient temple will do — and I’ll purr with contentment only opiates can deliver.) Two perfumes from Aesop, Marrakech and Mystra, are perfect accompaniments for bright highlands, strewn with ruins and scrub.

Marrakech, which includes notes of cloves, sandalwood and cardamom, was developed with an idea of “a city draped in colours of the desert, where artisans sit on rugs hewn by hand, and lute music mixes with the smell of spices in hot wind.” Marrakech is a resinous fragrance that smells of spicy sandalwood…

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Le Troisieme Homme de Caron ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 19 January 2011 58 Comments

I was looking through a picture book on birds when I wore Le Troisième Homme de Caron for the first time. A work of Albrecht Dürer’s — an illustration of a wing of Coracias garrulus — caught my attention. The disembodied wing, with its glossy blue, green, yellow and black feathers, possesses a sad beauty; it’s impossible to forget all that’s missing from that wing: a body, a beating heart, a song. Like the beautiful wing that’s “lost” its bird, Le Troisième Homme is a lovely aroma fragment that seems to have become separated from its perfume.

Listing the notes for Le Troisième Homme seems pointless*; it’s one well-blended fragrance. (I’ve been wearing Le Troisième Homme for weeks, hoping it would “fragment” on my skin or clothes and reveal an individual note or two; this has not happened. Le Troisième Homme is a linear fragrance.) Le Troisième Homme begins, and ends, with a sweet, floral-fruit aroma (almost like the scent of gardenia buds and lemon peel submerged in ice wine). The scent is liqueur-y, dense, and has a creamy floral character…

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Jacomo Art Collection #02 ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 12 January 2011 25 Comments

Jacomo Art Collection 02

Three artworks by three different artists prompt three perfumes (or “aromatic illustrations”) in the new Jacomo Art Collection. Jacomo, the company, opened for business in New York in the late 1960s; it was founded by James Kaplan, art collector, and Gérard Courtin, French pianist. According to Jacomo PR, the company name was derived from “‘Ja’ for James, ‘co’ for Courtin, and ‘mo’ — to give the name a musical touch.”

All three Art Collection fragrances are well done, but I like Art Collection #02 best (it was influenced by the work of Cecilia Carlstedt). Art Collection #02 is described by Jacomo as “sensual, bohemian and a little bit wild.” It was inspired by an “enigmatic muse depicted in Cecilia Carlstedt’s work — a mysterious girl who could have escaped Carlstedt’s New York studio, leaving a trail of gum, leather and modeling clay scents in her wake.” (Let’s hope Carlstedt is not really imprisoning her muses.) Art Collection #02 includes fragrance notes of bergamot, amaryllis, tonka bean, vanilla, suede accord, amber, and patchouli.

Art Collection #02 starts with a powdery, yet slightly “aquatic” (how can that be?) “gum” accord — a mix of ‘rubber cement’/old-fashioned Play-Doh aromas, tonka bean, and a diffuse leather note…

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Guerlain Shalimar Ode a la Vanille ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 5 January 2011 47 Comments

Guerlain Shalimar Ode a la Vanille

I had little hope Guerlain Shalimar Ode à la Vanille would be a good perfume. Ode à la Vanille PR didn’t stress the fragrance but the Jade Jagger redesign of the Shalimar bottle, which Guerlain is using for Shalimar Eau de Parfum and Shalimar Ode à la Vanille. Harrods even had an online feature showing Jagger, looking a bit uncomfortable at a desk, ‘sketching’ her designs. Harrods listed the iconic perfume as “Shalimar by Jade Jagger”!

Guerlain house perfumer Thierry Wasser developed the new, vanilla-enriched Shalimar Ode à la Vanille; it includes fragrance notes of lemon, bergamot, rose, jasmine, iris, incense, opoponax, tonka bean and two types of “infused” vanilla: Madagascar vanilla and Mayotte vanilla. Shalimar Ode à la Vanille starts off with a wonderful leather-tinged bergamot-lemon note. Quickly, Shalimar Ode à la Vanille begins to smell “creamy” — like a chilled vanilla-citrus custard. The florals, especially the rose and jasmine, are discernible in mid-development but really become apparent in Ode à la Vanille’s extreme dry-down. As Shalimar Ode à la Vanille segues from middle to base notes it becomes amber-y-floral — first, with dark vanilla, opoponax, a hint of frankincense, some tonka bean and leather-musk notes, then with a vanillic flower accord. (There’s also a transitory indolic note that stays close to skin.) Shalimar Ode à la Vanille smells natural and delicious…

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Jonathan Adler Hashish candle ~ home fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 29 December 2010 23 Comments

The Jonathan Adler Hashish candle was on my Best of 2009 list, but I’ve never gotten around to reviewing it. What better time than now, when the house or apartment needs some scenting before the onslaught of New Year’s Eve guests (and if you’re staying home alone, a good perfumed candle makes things cozy-contemplative and festive).

Hashish’s listed notes are black currant, green apple, wormwood, patchouli and moss. Hashish is a pungent, “manly” fragrance. As the Hashish candle burns, I smell fruity tobacco mixed with earthy patchouli and moss. The “ripe” fruit notes don’t smell like candy or fruit fresh off the bush or tree; these are intense, fruit-in-liqueur aromas. Weaving in and out of the Hashish composition is the spooky scent of wormwood — green, sweet and a tad medicinal. I also detect a slightly vanillic sweat-musk accord; sometimes this sensual aroma smells like cedar-cumin, other times like dark, boozy chocolate. All Hashish’s simmering fragrance notes produce a complex perfume that, every now and then, resembles the scent of burning marijuana…

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