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Browsing by author: Kevin

Thierry Mugler A*Men Pure Havane ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 9 March 2011 36 Comments

Thierry Mugler A*Men begat A*Men Pure Coffee, A*Men Pure Malt and, now, the new, limited edition A*Men Pure Havane. Though I dislike original A*Men, I’ve enjoyed all A*Men “Pure” offspring (flankers) so far, and I was especially looking forward to Pure Havane’s homage to “prestige cigars.” I walked into my local Nordstrom men’s fragrance department, asked for Pure Havane, and was told by the sales person only eight bottles had been received, and they had sold out within days. (“Good! It must be nice!” I thought.) Then, the sales person said: “You know…it smells a lot like Pure Malt to me…which smelled a lot like Pure Coffee.”

The “Pure” flankers have been successful for Thierry Mugler, but instead of putting these popular scents in the fragrance line-up permanently, the company “freshens” the Pure brand each year by folding a new note into a non-changing base formula. Perhaps fans of the Pure fragrances regard the line as one scent, with a different “flourish” each year. Think of it this way: you love a restaurant’s roasted tomato soup. You order the soup every time you visit the restaurant…

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Cherchez les femmes ~ or raiding the women’s perfume counter

Posted by Kevin on 1 March 2011 159 Comments

At least twice a week on my way to work, I pass a man on the street who is wearing Guerlain Mitsouko. This guy is Asian, young, dressed in “Seattle style” (baggy jeans and a sensible coat and backpack). I want to say “hi” and let him know I like Mitsouko too, but since it’s always 5:30 a.m. when I smell him, I keep quiet. (It would be weird to strike up a conversation about perfume on a dark street with a stranger — at the crack of dawn, especially with the implication: ‘you smell good’ hanging in the air.)

Since I’ve been writing for Now Smell This, LOTS of men have written me wondering why I’m “prejudiced” against men wearing women’s perfumes. I was surprised at this “interpretation” of my articles. Do I sometimes imply men’s colognes are for men and women’s perfumes are for women?

Men who wear “feminine” scents come in many ‘types.’ There’s the natural, confident man who wears what he likes, be it Drakkar Noir or Yves Saint Laurent Paris. Then there’s the exhibitionist/militant who drenches himself in, say, Fracas — and if you don’t ask about his scent, he’ll start flailing his arms and rearranging his scarf (better to disperse the heavy aroma in your direction) and if that fails to elicit a comment, he offers: “Do you like my perfume? It’s Fracas by Robert Piguet…it’s for WOMEN but I love it so….” (Yes, the dialogue is stilted, but often, so is he.) Some men have told me they wear women’s perfumes “at home”…afraid people will get the ‘wrong impression’ if they wear rose-y, tuberose-y scents in public. Then, there are men who do wear women’s perfumes in public, but in miniscule quantity (“a drop only for me to smell”). There’s nothing wrong with any of these “types” and I’ve fallen into all categories except No. 2. (well…perhaps even category No. 2 in my salad days).

One misconception about men who wear women’s perfumes: they’re gay. I’ve known many straight men who wear women’s perfumes…

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Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensee ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 23 February 2011 64 Comments

Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensee plus vanilla bean

It’s the seasonal interregnum in Seattle. King Winter is waning and Princess Spring is itching to begin her reign/rain. This is the period when amber, musk, incense and oud fragrances start to feel passé and weigh heavily on my body and spirit. As the witch-hazels and camellias bloom and wintersweet scents the air, I yearn for lighter “green”, floral and citrus-y colognes, but right now they too seem a bit “strange” to wear…like the shorts I’m beginning to see on many Seattleites!

Perfumer Ralf Schwieger developed Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensée — Princess Spring’s ‘regent’ — and it fits my mood, and the current (changeable) weather, perfectly: it’s neither too heavy, nor too light — it’s just right.

I have never been a huge fan of vanilla-centered perfumes…

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SoOud Asmar ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 16 February 2011 40 Comments

Qajar prince
Oud, or (most often) a synthetic chemical resembling its aroma, has established itself as a major fragrance note (and scent category) over the last ten years, but even with all the oud perfumes for sale, few people have smelled authentic oud. I’m guessing most perfume lovers (fanatics) no longer regard oud, or ‘Middle Eastern,’ scents as ‘exotic’ — oud perfumes are just another option in an overcrowded fragrance market. (Personally, I need a break from oud!)

The company SoOud was founded by Stéphane Humbert Lucas of Nez à Nez, who describes himself as a “painter-aesthete” who “writes and sculpts aromas.” The ‘oud’ in SoOud perfumes, if there is any oud in the formulas, is conjured by rich fragrance notes delivered in a Middle Eastern style.

Asmar, “the dusky one,” contains bergamot, white honey, carnation, roasted coffee, amber cigar, Grape marc, amber, tobacco leaf, chamois, musk and vanilla. I like the first minutes of Asmar best: a bold mix of honey and “amber cigar” (a creamy, sweet tobacco note). As the perfume develops, it becomes smoother, more gourmand…

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Chanel Antaeus ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 2 February 2011 36 Comments

My friend Carmen, who’s a nurse at a big Seattle hospital, recently said to me: “I’m turning into a man.” This being Seattle, I thought she might be thinking of having a sex change operation. When I asked her to explain herself, she said she’d noticed as women age they become more masculine looking (and men start to look more feminine). Females “toughen” — males “soften.” In perfume years, Chanel Antaeus is an elderly “guy”: 30 years old…and unless my nose is fooling me, Antaeus has become more feminine with age.

Antaeus*, developed by Chanel house perfumer Jacques Polge, begins with the scents of aldehydes, moss and a vibrant “green” note (part sage, part pine needle?) As the aldehydes/moss burn off, I smell a mild leather aroma blending with a wonderful honeyed tobacco note. The base of Antaeus smells of sweet, soft (almost powdery) woods and musk…

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