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Browsing by author: Kevin

Chanel Pour Monsieur & Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 27 July 2011 55 Comments

As a teenager, I was tightly wound: aloof, careful, “tart” (but certainly not a tart!) My parents were always telling me to loosen up — “Get a tan!” “Go on a date!” “Learn to dance!” I remember the night my attitudes about myself started to shift. I had just turned 18 and was preparing to go to school at night for a yearbook meeting (where my “tart” comments were always expunged from photo captions of fellow students). On that spring evening (what got into me?) I did several things out of character: I wore jeans, I put on a tight white sweater (without a t-shirt underneath, risqué!), I used gel in my hair…and I wore perfume — Chanel Pour Monsieur. Back in those days, there were no “makeover” shows on TV, but the reactions I got to the “new” me were very What Not to Wear — post-consultation. Several friends stared at me as if I were an alien. I got compliments. I began to understand the “power” of appearances.

Swirling around this incident were feelings of freedom ahead. In several months, I’d head off to college in New York City. I could start living the way I wanted to live. I was about to begin my exploration of the world. When I wear Chanel Pour Monsieur, I always remember that night, and I associate the perfume with youth, spring, hope, and transformation…

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Eau d’Italie Jardin du Poete ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 20 July 2011 24 Comments

Based in Positano, its perfumes inspired by Italy — Baume du Doge (Venice), Bois d’Ombrie (Umbria), Eau d’Italie (Positano), Magnolia Romana (Rome), Paestum Rose (Paestum) and Sienne l’Hiver (Siena) — niche line Eau d’Italie’s fragrance names are in French (Perché? Do more people know how to pronounce French than Italian? Are French titles more “perfume-y”?) Eau d’Italie also uses a French perfumer, Bertrand Duchaufour, to create many of its fragrances, and I’ve enjoyed (almost) all of his Eau d’Italie perfumes (Magnolia Romana excepted).

Working with Eau d’Italie’s owners, Marina Sersale and Sebastián Alvarez Murena, Duchaufour supposedly took two years of “intense development” to create Jardin du Poète:

The inspiration for this fragrance is a tale from a bygone era, when nations were ruled by poets, and poets were sacred to Apollo. In those days Sicily was a Greek colony, Syracuse was a fragrant court, and its gardens vibrated with the scent of citrus orchards and rows of aromatic plants. Thus “Jardin du Poete”, the poet’s garden, a luminous fragrance to evoke Sicily and all things Sicilian.

It would require another article to tackle the confused notions expressed in that PR blip, but I’ll take Eau d’Italie at its word when it states it wanted Jardin du Poète to be “deliciously original and uncompromisingly contemporary.” Jardin du Poète succeeds on one of those two counts…

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Odin 06 Amanu ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 13 July 2011 10 Comments

Odin 06 Amanu fragrance

In the world of weirdly timed fragrance launches (rich, heavy scents coming out in summer, bright citrus perfumes being released mid-winter), Odin New York 06 Amanu arrives at the perfect time for its hot-weather “character” (light and refreshing). As for 06 Amanu’s name and inspiration…I’m puzzled. Odin New York references the “southern Mediterranean” and “Anatolian soils” in its PR for 06 Amanu, but after searching for connections between “Amanu” and Europe/Turkey (and realizing life is too short for such ‘research’) I could only find the name “Amanu” in a South Pacific context — it’s an atoll in French Polynesia. (I know; who cares? But Amanu, to my nose, does smell more ‘South Seas’ than Turkish.)

06 Amanu includes notes of blood orange, green galbanum, lentisque (mastic), cedar leaf, jasmine sambac, magnolia, amberwood, musk and “live” moss. 06 Amanu starts off with biting citrus and sheer galbanum; the opening is lively and short lived…

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Lavender for Days ~ Sequim Lavender Festival 2011

Posted by Kevin on 6 July 2011 42 Comments

My tired nose is on a brief hiatus from perfume-sniffing. Right now, I’m devoting my appreciation of scent to what’s blooming in the garden: mock-orange/Philadelphus (one of those glorious floral aromas that no perfume can duplicate), honey locust trees, roses, wallflowers, gardenia, jasmine, clove-y “pinks,” peonies…and lavender.

West of Seattle, a large area of land near the town of Sequim, Washington, is devoted to lavender production, and I’m heading there next weekend to breathe in lavender’s pungent, herbal aromas. Lavender…in soggy western Washington, you ask? Sequim is located in what residents of Seattle fondly, yearningly call “the rain shadow” of the Olympic Mountains in the Sequim-DungenessValley. Rainfall is usually less than 20 inches a year in the sunny rain shadow, so lavender thrives. As Seattle is the “Paris of the Northwest,” so Sequim is the Provence of the U.S. (Relax! You may laugh!)…

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Guerlain Heritage ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 29 June 2011 16 Comments

Guerlain Heritage advert

At the current stage of my perfume “obsession,” I rarely buy perfume. (Most of my time, and skin, is reserved for new fragrance samples, and I really don’t need any perfume until I use up some of what I already own.) When I first became a perfume-maniac, I bought, often unsniffed, everything in sight. If I liked a fragrance house, I’d work my way through all their masculine offerings. Sometimes, a beautiful ad in a magazine or the sighting of an interesting perfume bottle was all it took to “make” me head to the store and buy a fragrance — and hope for the best. Long, long ago that’s how I came to know Guerlain Héritage: I loved Guerlain and the Héritage bottle* so I bought it!

Héritage, created by perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain, was released in 1992; it includes notes of lemon, bergamot, lavender, coriander, pink pepper, patchouli, cedar, vanilla and tonka bean. Héritage opens with lots of bergamot and lavender, a creamy, not astringent, blend. As the scent dries on skin, lavender becomes more noticeable and herbal. Pepper and coriander notes are subdued but add a “gleam” to the perfume. Héritage’s heart and base are almost ‘one’; after its opening, Héritage heads directly to its destination: a shimmering, “golden” amber composed of balmy cedar, a touch of musk, patchouli and vanilla (with some lingering lavender). Héritage is a well-gauged/low-impact scent — there is no startling “blast-off” and there is no bumpy landing…

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