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Browsing by author: Kevin

Humiecki & Graef Blask ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 16 May 2012 34 Comments

The perfumista chorus constantly chants “Enough Oud!” “Stop Oud!”** and all of a sudden I’m beginning to feel protective of oud perfumes. True, the market is flooded with oud fragrances but it’s also flooded with sport and gourmand and jasmine colognes. The perennial pet of the perfume world, orange blossom, gets to star in fragrance after fragrance without complaints from the “perfume gallery.” Oud is like any other ingredient; it can be placed in an unimaginative setting, or showcased with ingenuity.

Recently I’ve come across several oud fragrances that deserve respect; Humiecki & Graef Blask is one of them. You can read the convoluted “backstory” of Blask here. I’ll just say it was created by the perfume team of Christoph Hornetz and Christophe Laudamiel and has fragrance notes of bay laurel, “red wine,” walnut wood, floral notes and agarwood/oud.

Blask opens with a warm, rich bay leaf aroma…

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Caron Yuzu Man ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 9 May 2012 34 Comments

Caron Yuzu Man

It took me almost a year to get my hands on a sample of Caron Yuzu Man. I contacted Caron’s New York boutique when Yuzu Man launched in early 2011 and asked if there were any samples available. The answer: “There aren’t…but perhaps we can contact Paris and see if….”

I never got a sample from Caron.

No matter how nice the New York Caron staff are (they never like to say “no” to a request…they promote Hope), getting a sample of a Caron perfume is like asking your cat to clip its own nails: it won’t happen. (A friend once asked Caron for a perfume sample and they said they didn’t have any sample vials handy — they were waiting for sample vials to arrive from – PARIS!, instead of just buying them locally.) Does Caron produce carded samples these days? If so, are they reserved for Europe?

Anyway, last month I ordered a Yuzu Man sample from Germany. Was it worth the wait and trouble…

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Top 10 Spring Fragrances 2012

Posted by Kevin on 4 May 2012 63 Comments

Spring in the Pacific Northwest is a transitional season — there are chilly days and warm days, a dry day (or two), and then there’s…RAIN…all types of rain — sprinkles, showers, ‘horizontal’ umbrella-proof rain, deluges, sometimes all in the space of one exciting hour. What separates spring from fall, another season with multiple personalities, are the fragrant flowers that bloom in spring: plum and cherry; narcissus; wintersweet; scented azaleas, camellias and witch hazels; lilacs; daphnes; hyacinths; and my favorite — wallflowers. For my springtime perfume choices, I (mostly) skip spring flowers in a bottle — no perfume matches the aromas of real plants blooming all around me. My spring favorites, most of them new discoveries and, as yet, un-reviewed, are a varied lot.

Ah…the smell of gasoline on a warm afternoon! Histoires de Parfums Pétroleum reminds me of lawn mower fumes mingling with the scents of flowers and cut grass. It makes me drowsy (in a good way). And speaking of grass (and roots) I’ll add LesNez Turtle Vetiver Front to my spring favorites list; it’s a rich and warm vetiver that works in any season (like a “perfume-scarf,” it blunts the chill on cold days and, conversely, it accentuates the heat of a warm day when you want that “baking” feeling).

As one bakes, one sweats, and I’m one of those people who likes a hot-and-bothered-smelling perfume on occasion (we’re talking ‘clean’ sweat — grapefruit, vetiver, cedar — no overwhelming cumin). In this clean-dirty category, I’ll put Kinski (with its marijuana and vetiver notes) and the éminence grise of modern perspiration perfumery: Cartier Déclaration…

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Aedes de Venustas Signature Eau de Parfum ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 3 May 2012 32 Comments

Aedes de Venustas Signature Eau de Parfum

Ever since it opened shop in New York City, Aedes de Venustas has had a special place in my perfume-loving heart. I remember the old days when I’d anxiously await the arrival of the always-beautiful Aedes de Venustas catalogues and then figure out what perfume(s) and soaps and candles I couldn’t live without (the intervening 17 years have taught me I can live without just about everything!) I introduced “legions” to the store and online boutique by saying, around birthday-time and Christmas (in wording that varied): “A present for ME? There’s no need! Weeeeell, I love just about everything at (you guessed it) Aedes de Venustas.” Now Aedes de Venustas has launched a new fragrance called Aedes de Venustas Signature Eau de Parfum (not to be confused with the L’Artisan Parfumeur Aedes de Venustas fragrance.)

Bertrand Duchaufour, the perfumer of L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Aedes de Venustas, developed Aedes de Venustas Signature, too; it has fragrance notes of rhubarb, tomato leaf, red currant, green apple, honeysuckle, vetiver, hazelnut and incense.

Aedes de Venustas Signature begins with a tangy, green/fruit accord: a “hot,” rough tomato leaf scent combined with musky currant, a quick burst of apple, and rhubarb. Let’s stop right here and talk “rhubarb”…

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Lorenzo Villoresi Theseus ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 25 April 2012 8 Comments

I’ve never bought a full bottle of a Lorenzo Villoresi perfume (though I do have a love-hate relationship with decant-worthy Alamut, a fragrance that sometimes caresses, then turns on you and begins to constrict and suffocate like a python). I certainly don’t think the Villoresi perfumes are bad, just not my “style.”*

Now comes Lorenzo Villoresi Theseus, an “enriched” citrus perfume. I never give up on a line and I often revisit a perfumer’s or company’s fragrance offerings years after thinking “I don’t like these!”; tastes change…

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