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Browsing by author: Kevin

Fan di Fendi Pour Homme ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 6 March 2013 19 Comments

Fan di Fendi Pour Homme

I’ve never been a fan of Fendi; the Fendi sisters and their fur-centered business were turn-offs so I never wore Fendi perfumes, though I appreciated some of them from afar — “original” Fendi (discontinued), Fendi Uomo (discontinued) and Theorema (also discontinued; does Fendi get easily bored with its own perfumes or don’t the fragrances sell?) Fendi recently launched Fan di Fendi Pour Homme, a woody-aromatic fragrance,* and I nabbed a couple sample vials for testing.

Fan di Fendi Pour Homme opens with a strong, syrupy accord of pepper and citrus; the “syrup” is quickly diluted with smooth (non-assertive) cardamom, sweet geranium leaf, and, perhaps, a ‘fresh’ element (a stealth smidgen of ozone? tart “rose hips”?) Fan di Fendi Pour Homme’s opening is my favorite phase of the perfume…

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Lalique de Lalique ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 27 February 2013 21 Comments

Lalique de Lalique, Libellule flacon

I rarely get my hands on classic/mainstream women’s perfume samples; I’m always receiving niche offerings — masculine or unisex. When I saw a sample tray at a department store full of the Lalique de Lalique fragrance, I got two vials, thinking I’d pass one on to someone I know who loves old school women’s perfumes and I’d keep the other to use in my scent infuser — IF the fragrance appealed to me.

Lalique de Lalique has a confusing history; it was originally called Parfum Lalique, was developed by perfumer Sophia Grojsman,* and was released in 1992. Parfum Lalique was repackaged, renamed Lalique de Lalique, and, perhaps, reformulated in 2001. Reading my sample card, the perfume I’m reviewing is an Edition Spéciale, 20th Anniversary (“special edition” refers to the bottle, not the perfume, I believe) that came out in 2012. I have no idea if this is yet another reformulation…

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Etat Libre d’Orange The Afternoon of a Faun ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 20 February 2013 25 Comments

faune

As usual, Etat Libre d’Orange loads its newish release, The Afternoon of a Faun, with lots of backstory: Stéphane Mérimée’s poem L’après-midi d’un faune, Vaslav Nijinsky’s ballet (nymphs! sex!), and…uh…Mx* Justin Vivian Bond, who is given equal credit (and ad space) for developing the fragrance with perfumer Ralf Schwieger. (I can’t believe Ralf is pleased.) There’s a world of difference between Nijinsky’s The Afternoon of a Faun and Bond’s…Shortbus (though I can’t believe Etat Libre d’Orange didn’t try for a perfume tie-in with that film); when Nijinsky is “present,” even in a still photograph or grainy film clip, everyone else pales.

The Afternoon of a Faun perfume goes on “liquor-y” — with rich citrus, a touch of jasmine, and lots of immortelle. Out of that initial triad, immortelle is heaviest and longer lasting; it dominates the next phase of development too, but in mid-development it’s augmented with whiffs of rosy incense. In its final phase, The Afternoon of a Faun presents sweet, woody myrrh accented with pepper; its base notes have a waxy sheen, as if the lingering immortelle had been dipped in beeswax…

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Versace Eros ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 6 February 2013 31 Comments

Versace Eros (a scent for a “hero” says Donatella Versace) launched this winter; the Eros ads are hilarious (the film is over-the-top kitschy and the print ad (see below) is, I assume, “inadvertently” funny, with the model’s body reconfigured by Photoshop so a huge bottle of Eros could be inserted where his abdomen-crotch-upper thigh should be…leaving a ludicrously elongated body). Ads aside, I was not expecting much from Eros, the perfume.

Eros begins with vanilla-mint aromas, reminiscent of barbershop fragrances (Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle, anyone?); ambroxan with a clove-like touch appears next alongside hard-working, always-employed tonka bean. Eros’ base notes of cedar (discernible) and vetiver-oak moss are well blended to produce a standard-issue woody accord. Eros starts off as a warm fragrance, not cool or crisp or “fresh” in the sense we’re used to in men’s mainstream/designer perfumes…

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Jardins d’Ecrivains George ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 30 January 2013 34 Comments

George Sand

I dream so much and live so little that I’m sometimes only three years old. But the next day I’m three hundred, if the dream has been somber. Isn’t it the same with you? Doesn’t it occasionally seem to you as if you’re starting out on life without even knowing what it is, while at other times you feel weighted down by thousands of centuries of which you have but a dim and painful memory? Where do we come from, and where are we going? Anything’s possible because everything’s unknown.
— George Sand to Gustave Flaubert, Sept. 28, 18661

I “met” George Sand when I was twelve years old. In the county library, I noticed a book called Infamous Woman (I’ve always had a soft spot for infamy); I read the book, a biography of Sand, and became infatuated with her. My infatuation has lasted decades and has morphed from fascination with Sand’s personal life to deep appreciation of her ideas and writing.

Sand was a writer of amazing stamina, producing a huge body of work: 70 novels and novellas, two dozen plays, essays galore, decades of daily diary entries, and 25 volumes of correspondence (each volume around 1,000 pages!)2 I’ve enjoyed many of her novels, but my favorite Sand works are autobiographical…

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