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Browsing by author: Kevin

Ramon Monegal Dry Wood, Entre Naranjos, Impossible Iris, Cuirelle, Agar Musk ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 10 April 2013 61 Comments

Ramon Monegal perfumes

Samples of Ramón Monegal’s new perfume line, all fourteen fragrances, landed on my desk months ago. I was overwhelmed by the number of perfumes, but over the course of several days, and using each finger on both hands, and both wrists, and forearms, and even a friend at work, I tried them all. Some of the perfumes I immediately deemed unwearable (for me) — even applied in small quantity (they were hyper-feminine and sweet). The fragrance I had my female friend try, Kiss My Name, almost ruined our relationship; I applied only a drop to her wrist and this sent her sprinting to the sink where she furiously scrubbed her wrist with hot water and dishwashing liquid. Still, the fragrance persisted, nay, DOMINATED the office, because it was on the sleeve of her shirt. Her choices were few: walk around in her bra all day, shirtless (she said she seriously considered doing this), or grin and bear it till she got home and threw her shirt in the wash.

My overall reaction to the Monegal line was: “Ho hum.” Then I remembered what I’m always preaching: “To know what a perfume really smells like, don’t DAB, pour it on! Empty some samples vials!” There was no way I was going to devote two weeks of my life to Ramón Monegal fragrances (14 perfumes, 14 days) so I put all ten I’d consider wearing (deleting the “No way!” scents from the competition) on my dining room table, scattered them about, closed my eyes and picked five fragrances to wear over the course of a week…

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Lorenzo Villoresi Mare Nostrum Aura Maris ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 3 April 2013 6 Comments

Nereide su cavallo marino

Mare Nostrum Aura Maris* (let’s translate as “Mediterranean sea breeze”) is the latest fragrance from Italian niche line Lorenzo Villoresi. Marine fragrances are not a favorite of mine; they are often abrasive, Calone-rich banalities (and just because a niche perfume house produced this one, I didn’t expect to like it).

Mare Nostrum begins with intense bergamot and mandarin aromas (the mandarin is especially realistic, a fruity, oily-peel scent). Next up are floral notes mixing with the citrus; jasmine comes first, then there’s a nice indolic narcissus note (both floral notes are on the sheer side). This may be the first time I’ve noticed that narcissus has a “water” aspect, more “pond” than “ocean”, but still conjuring a wet place…

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Miller et Bertaux oh, ooOoh…oh ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 27 March 2013 17 Comments

Miller et Bertaux oh, ooOoh...oh

Miller et Bertaux is not a high-profile perfume company, at least not in the U.S. The U.S. perfume market is tiny compared to Europe, so that’s not a disaster for Miller et Bertaux, but it is a shame more people here don’t get to try Miller et Bertaux’s high-quality (in style and substance) fragrances — any of which I would happily wear (how often can I say that?) I’m particularly fond of: #2 Spiritus/land; #3 Green, green, green and…green; a quiet morning; and Om: inspire…and smile.

Miller et Bertaux’s latest perfume is called Oh, ooOoh…oh (mist, wood, wind and guitar)*; it goes on smelling spicy — as if you took some super-aromatic gin and boiled away the alcohol to accentuate the aromas of juniper berries, pungent citrus peels and herbs in the liquor (there’s a wonderful-smelling cinnamon-pepper component too). Oh, ooOoh…oh’s opening also reminds me of a rich, dark amber-colored artisanal ginger ale I drank recently; its vibe is warm and comforting…but not heavy…

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Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Dore ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 20 March 2013 21 Comments

Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer

Is Maître Parfumeur et Gantier depressed? Lazy? Complacent? Thinking about “retirement?” If not, why hasn’t the (badly designed) brand’s website been updated in years; Cuir Fétiche (2011) isn’t on the site, nor is Bois de Turquie, released in 2008! And what about the ugly bottles people have been making fun of for ages? Keep the bottles if you must, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, but at least nix the cheap plastic “jewels” (that often fall off) from the caps. Still…I always try new Maître Parfumeur et Gantier fragrances.

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier’s latest perfume, Ambre Doré, opens with the aromas of vibrant oud, saffron-scented leather and “green” (geranium?) styrax. Ambre Doré’s “character” is tougher than most amber perfumes, which is fine by me (I like my ambers rough and ‘scratchy’…if they’re too smooth and sleek I’m bored). As Ambre Doré’s opening burns off there’s a musky barnyard moment or two (we’re talking a dry-manure-in-the-distance aroma) followed by the scent of bananas steeped in turpentine…

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Eaudemoiselle de Givenchy ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 13 March 2013 20 Comments

Rose

Givenchy bills Eaudemoiselle* as a youthful fragrance: an attempt to capture a young audience — and a presentation of a “rebellious rose.” (Roses are rebelling everywhere this year, most recently in Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin.)

Eaudemoiselle goes on with rose-tinged, opaque (sugar-glazed) citrus aromas — or is it citrus-tinged, opaque (sugar-dusted) rose aromas? Eaudemoiselle is sweet, but in a natural, old-fashioned way; it’s not a contemporary gourmand perfume (no neon-colored fruits or caramel or chocolate are involved). Eaudemoiselle’s vibe is floral-citrus, circa 1960s, but without the woody-mossy base you’d expect in that time period. There’s not a lot of change between Eaudemoiselle’s opening notes and its heart, but in mid-development the notes turn creamy, then change course and become a tad powdery. (Venerable Ÿsatis’ DNA is somewhere in Eaudemoiselle’s formula.) As Eaudemoiselle enters its final phase of development, it becomes even more rosy, though I can detect musky ambrette seed mixing with the flowers.

When I first discovered Eaudemoiselle in a scent strip in Neiman Marcus’s 2012 Christmas catalogue, I felt SURE I could wear it myself…

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