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Browsing by author: Kevin

Etro Rajasthan ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 15 May 2013 25 Comments

Etro Rajasthan + Study of an archer

Before smelling Etro Rajasthan, I asked my friend Rekha, who grew up in Delhi (and who has visited Rajasthan many times), to describe the aromas of that Indian state. Here are some of her scent memories of Jaipur, Udaipur and Jodhpur:

“Sandalwood incense burning in front of a musician playing the flute, early in the morning; kewra, flavoring a sweet yogurt lassi; Jaipur market, full of spices, car and scooter emissions, cows and stray dogs, a mass of humanity, street vendors selling samosas, chaat, potato cutlets, barbecued meats, garbanzo beans, ice cream, kulfi…messy stuff…all in afternoon heat; jasmine made into garlands for the hair; smoky evening fires burning as dinners are cooked; water being sprinkled on lawns to cool them for evening, activating the scent of earth.”

A heady mix!

I was excited when Etro announced its new India-inspired fragrance (and being really excited about a new perfume release is rare for me these days). Having never been to Rajasthan, my imagination ran wild with the fragrant possibilities. First there were the scents of foods and spices — almonds, condensed milk, jaggery, clove, cardamom, fenugreek, turmeric, dried mango powder, coriander, cumin. After the kitchen cabinet, there was the landscape to consider; though Rajasthan is a dry place, certain aromatic plants grow there…

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Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau Male ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 8 May 2013 25 Comments

Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau Male

As the world warms up, an uncomfortable-looking, badly proportioned and PhotoShopped piece of sun-broiled beefcake (tattooed of course) contorts himself on a sheet of melting ice, using a threatened species’ hide as a cushion; welcome to the world of Le Beau Mâle*, Jean Paul Gaultier’s latest men’s fragrance. I would describe this “world” as ugly, dumb…not sexy. If you have about 20 minutes of your life to spare (waste), watch the annoying, disjointed, and, I assume, unintentionally, funny Le Beau Mâle promotional videos — talk about much ado about nothing! The Francis Kurkdjian interview is especially weird; he compares Le Beau Mâle to the comic book series Largo Winch; Lady Chatterley’s Lover; You Can Leave Your Hat On (the Joe Cocker song from 9½ Weeks); and A Streetcar Named Desire (Marlon Brando version). Succinctly put, my reaction to all this, the print ads, the videos, and the perfume, was: “WTF!”

Le Beau Mâle is billed as a fresher take (a mix of “hot” and “cold” notes) on original Le Mâle…

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DSquared2 Potion for Men & Potion Blue Cadet ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 1 May 2013 12 Comments

DSquared2 Potion Blue Cadet advert

Dsquared2 knows where its perfume customers are — Europe. Except for its first fragrances (He Wood and She Wood), DSquared2 perfumes just don’t show up here in the U.S. (or in Canada, if the Vancouver, B.C., Sephora is any indication). Perfume launches are expensive, so why spend money on the U.S. when it doesn’t generate a huge amount of revenue? I’ve gotten used to this situation and can eventually find almost all Europe-only perfume launches I’m interested in at online U.S. discounters (even Amazon.com) or on eBay.

DSquared2’s fragrance aesthetic, for men at least, is usually centered around woods — warm and pungent (He Wood Rocky Mountain Wood, He Wood Silver Wind Wood) or cool and aquatic (He Wood, He Wood Ocean Wet Wood). Potion for Men* falls into the first category; it goes on smelling like a cinnamon cookie, its spiciness enlivened with a drop of mint oil (and perhaps a squirt of angelica). This “cookie” is not too sweet because its aroma is layered with toasty, incense-y, cedar wood. Discreet iris/gentian mingles with all the notes, adding softness to the overall feel of the fragrance…

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Calvin Klein Dark Obsession ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 24 April 2013 56 Comments

Calvin Klein Dark Obsession advert

Maybe it’s because I have a stomach ache as I write this, but reading the ingredients of Calvin Klein Dark Obsession makes me queasy. There’s unripe mandarin, super-caffeinated guarana, green, sticky absinthe, herb-y sage, fir balsam!, vanilla and vetiver, labdanum and suede. I need to burp. A dark obsession should sound better than this, shouldn’t it?

On skin, Dark Obsession is even worse than “on paper”; it smells like women’s hairspray from the 1980s — cheap, harsh, and loaded with synthetic aroma-chemicals. How to describe such stuff as nightmares are made on* (forgive me, Shakespeare). I have a scent memory of my little sister, a true slob as a child: she is playing with her dolls, and scents as varied as plastic, soda pop, waxy “chocolate” lip gloss from the Dollar Store, and bundles of artificially-flavored “spaghetti” licorice come to mind…

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Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio & Acqua di Gio Essenza ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 17 April 2013 27 Comments

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio advert

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò is 17 years old. And as I wore the fragrance for this week’s review, I came to feel 17 is the perfect age for the Acqua di Giò wearer, too, because Acqua di Giò smells “immature” and a bit “simple” (I won’t/can’t say “innocent” because I don’t believe many innocent 17-year-old guys exist anymore!) Though I happily (and confidently) wear all manner of fresh, citrus/floral colognes, Acqua di Giò is so adolescent, so connected to a specific time and perfume “Age,” I don’t feel comfortable wearing it.

Acqua di Giò was released in 1996*; the perfume starts with sharp citrus aromas blending with neroli. The opening has a warm vibe; this is not a cool/cold perfume. Next up is a “water” note: a bit floral, a bit calone-ish. Some old ingredients lists say cyclamen is in Acqua di Giò, and certainly clean/clear cyclamen is more apt a description for what I smell than fleshy and dense “persimmon” (which Armani lists as a note; is this a translation or botanical error?) Acqua di Giò’s base is so well blended no note stands out…there’s just a pleasant accumulation of fresh aromas: vaguely woody, vaguely floral. I would categorize this as a perfect teen cologne — for either sex…

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