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Browsing by author: Kevin

Santa Maria Novella Ginestra ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 26 June 2013 28 Comments

Broom flower

I’ve been having nightmares recently — images of haunted, ancient buildings, scary-looking storytellers with harsh words and amazing powers, “gifts” that are full of trickery and cruel irony invade my thoughts throughout the night. To combat this nighttime onslaught, I’ve been forcing myself to have happy daydreams. Some of my best daydreams involve travel: places I’ve visited and been enchanted by. One such place is southern Italy and a wonderful vacation spent in the area stretching from Naples to Paestum. Apart from the fragrant foods of Campania — ripe San Marzano tomatoes “baking” in the sunshine, limoncello, mozzarella di bufala, pizzas cooking in wood-burning ovens, cinnamon-scented sfogliatella — I remember one afternoon spent at Pompeii, where the air was scented with a combination of sweet smoke (from Vesuvius?) and flowers. For once, the flowers outdid the smoke…because the flowers were ginestra (Genista juncea).

Ginestra (also known as broom) is part of a big plant family — the legume (Fabaceae) group. As I was searching online, trying to figure out the type of broom I smelled at Pompeii, I saw the Italian poet Giacomo Leopardi was inspired by broom to write his poem The Ginestra, or The Flower of the Wilderness…

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Tom Ford Sahara Noir ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 12 June 2013 31 Comments

Tom Ford Sahara Noir advert

Tom Ford just launched the latest fragrance in the Tom Ford Signature line — Sahara Noir. Judging from my recent experiences with Tom Ford perfumes, and the looks of Sahara Noir’s ingredients list*, I got more, and less, than I bargained for.

First, the “more.” Sahara Noir is a high-quality fragrance, easily besting recent Private Blend offerings. Sahara Noir goes on skin smelling of smoky (frank) incense, with sweet (but faint) undertones of cedar/cypress, cistus labdanum and cinnamon. Sahara Noir is a dense perfume, conjuring closed spaces, almost airless, where odors “congregate” and abide (think: tiny chapels or temples, saturated with incense smoke and candle soot). If you love incense-wood fragrances do try it, especially if your tastes run to “stark”/simple incense perfumes…

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Frau Tonis Parfum Linde Berlin No. 10 & Parfums d’Orsay Tilleul pour la nuit ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 5 June 2013 31 Comments

linden blossom

I love lots of trees, but right up there in my top five trees for scent is the linden (Tilia X europaea). When I smell linden blossoms, a scene, or should I call it a fantasy?, comes to mind: it’s late spring or early summer, the temperature is 75 degrees F and it’s sunny, a gentle breeze is blowing. With a stack of my favorite books and a hamper full of goodies, I’m reclining on a comfortable chaise longue…right next to a linden tree in full bloom. There I could happily sit, eat, read, nap…all day. If you must, take away the seating and books, and I’d be just as happy wandering down an allée of linden trees with my hamper, stopping every now and then to listen to the rustling of the lindens’ heart-shaped leaves, the singing birds in the branches, and the hum of the thousands of bees drinking the linden blossoms’ nectar. You can even have the hamper, just me and the lindens would be enough for a wonderful afternoon. If you haven’t smelled a blossoming linden tree, find one and give the flowers a sniff — they are a joy to experience.

Linden-scented perfumes, soaps and candles are favorites of mine (linden honey is delicious too). Recently, I experienced two new linden (“tilleul” in French) fragrances — Frau Tonis Parfum Linde Berlin No. 10 and Parfums d’Orsay Tilleul pour la nuit…

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Father’s Day 2013 ~ scented gift suggestions

Posted by Kevin on 29 May 2013 26 Comments

father's day

My father is deceased. My partner and I wouldn’t dream of calling each other “Dad” or “Pa” (nor do either of us qualify as “sugar daddy” to the other). My two cats are treated like children, but neither is smart enough to buy me a present. Father’s Day is pretty meaningless at my house! How’s that for a kick-off to this article? Personal life aside, I hear people all around me complaining about Father’s Day: fathers are often disappointed in the gifts they receive, suspecting the gift is more for the giver, than the receiver (tickets to shows and games, fancy dinners at restaurants); children struggle to buy something original that will still be enjoyed. Since my “beat” is perfume, here are some scented suggestions if you’re still searching for a gift.

Let’s start with the head; the locus of male drudgery — shaving. Classic Shaving offers some cool gift options: its retro, and colorful, Pinaud-Clubman set includes five, 12.5 oz bottles of Lime Sec and Citrus Musk Eaux de Cologne, Lilac Vegetal, Bay Rum and Clubman “Original” aftershave lotions, $50 (or the same set in 6 oz bottles for $30); the Thiers Issard Super Badger 26mm Shaving Brush is beautiful (the bristles are set into a desert ironwood base), $230; present the brush with a tin of Pré de Provence Shaving Cream, 150 g, sage scent, $15. Have a dad with whiskers? Give him some beard soap and beard tonic from Ireland…

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Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascese ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 22 May 2013 23 Comments

Old Church at Acoma Pueblo, New Mexico, 1902

Last week I bemoaned the fact that Etro Rajasthan didn’t smell like India. I’ve smelled what seems like a zillion perfumes, watched plenty ad campaigns, and read through news releases, so I know I shouldn’t expect fragrance names or PR to match reality. I may be disappointed Rajasthan didn’t conjure India (for me) but if that fragrance had been good, I would have forgiven false advertising. This week, I’m wearing Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascèse* (ascetic wood) and the aura of the perfume matches its name and description: “…a secluded CHAPEL, BLAZING dusk, moment of GRACE, DIVINE smoke, silent CANTIQUE….”

Bois d’Ascèse conjures one of my favorite places — northern New Mexico; the fragrance creates a dry, austere, pungent scene. Willa Cather was on my mind as I wore this fragrance (I’m reading her letters) and I think a tiny vial of Bois d’Ascèse should accompany every volume of Death Comes for the Archbishop — Cather’s New Mexico novel in which her European characters travel through Santa Fe, Ranchos de Taos, and Acoma, Isleta and Laguna pueblos…

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