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Browsing by author: Kevin

Juniper Ridge Caruthers Canyon and Siskiyou Backpacker’s Colognes ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 23 October 2013 54 Comments

Siskiyou Mountains

In a Men’s Journal article this year, Juniper Ridge founder/perfumer Hall Newbegin said:

The fragrance industry is dictated by the narrow grammar set up by the French 200 years ago — floral equals feminine, musk equals masculine…. This idea that only 10 noses in Paris understand fragrance, it’s just smoke and mirrors.1

Newbegin thinks many of today’s colognes smell like crap2: “…thin, fake, grody, and turned up to 11.”

The contemporary perfume world is a big and varied place; and the women=flowers, men=musk idea is outdated; now, mainstream perfumes follow a formula that’s more women=candy and men=tonka beans and ozone. Today, musk is white (and decidedly unisex) — clean and redolent of the laundry room in full swing: dryer sheets swirling, detergent bubbling.

Juniper Ridge makes its perfumes “in the field”: collecting raw materials from a particular wild place using “machetes and chain saws and pickup trucks”3 and a whiskey still that’s been altered to process all manner of herbs, leaves, wildflowers, and bits of trees…

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Bois 1920 Sandalo e The & 1920 Extreme ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 9 October 2013 21 Comments

Villa medicea di Castello Lunette

It’s appropriate the Bois 1920 perfume line is created in Florence; that Italian city, compared to Rome or Naples (or anyplace in Sicily!), is formal. Florentine people seem more reserved, conservative (in dress at least), orderly, and quieter than other Italians; they are not show-offs or big-mouths — and I‘m not knocking show-offs or big-mouths (I’m one). Bois 1920 perfumes, likewise, do not seek attention: they are understated, beautifully composed, and ‘at ease’ in almost any setting.

I like almost every perfume Bois 1920 makes and was surprised when I realized I’ve only reviewed my least favorite from the line. Today, I’m making amends by reviewing two quintessential Bois 1920 fragrances — Sandalo e The and 1920 Extreme…

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Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Homme (2013 reissue) ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 2 October 2013 19 Comments

Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Homme advert

I’ll spare you the hand-wringing and damp eyes that often accompany discussions of the original 1999 version of Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Homme — there’ll be little talk of the dreaded, but inevitable, reformulation, and no repetition of the glowing reviews of yore. As they say: what’s done is done…what’s gone is gone. Anyway, I don’t think I ever smelled the original version of Yohji Homme; if I did, I probably dismissed it immediately (fourteen years ago, I was not a lover of spicy fragrances).

Perfumer Jean-Michel Duriez developed Yohji Homme; perfumer Olivier Pescheux was assigned the task of updating the defunct Yohji Yamamoto perfume line for re-release. I wonder if Pescheux was nervous, given the widespread love of original Yohji Homme?

Yohji Yamamoto said of Yohji Homme: “The scent follows the funny off-track and avant-garde image of my fashion.” Quirkiness was certainly present in one of my favorite Yohji Homme ads — an old dog hiding behind a slender tree. Unbelievably, Yohji Homme lives up to Yamamoto’s statement; it IS off-track and avant-garde…

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Burberry Brit Rhythm ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 25 September 2013 36 Comments

Burberry Brit Rhythm, ad & bottle

Burberry just released Burberry Brit Rhythm for (young) men; it’s a flanker to Brit for Men (2004) and marks the beginning of Burberry’s in-house perfume development (adieu InterParfums). Though InterParfums is gone, silliness remains: Brit Rhythm was “inspired by the music in the brand’s DNA” — huh? what’s so musical about a trench coat? (I own a Burberry trench and have probably done some singing while wearing it…though I don’t think I was inspired by my coat to burst into song.) Burberry also produced an unmusical Brit Rhythm video that looks more like a lead-up to a fashion show than a rock concert. Do young guys still aspire, by the millions, to rock-singer status? You’d think so judging by mainstream perfume advertising.

It took three perfumers to come up with Burberry Brit Rhythm: Dominique Ropion, Anne Flipo and Olivier Polge…

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Jardins d’Ecrivains Orlando ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 18 September 2013 18 Comments

Vita Sackville-West

“…some we know to be dead even though they walk among us; some are not yet born though they go through all the forms of life; others are hundreds of years old though they call themselves thirty-six.”
— Orlando by Virginia Woolf

Imagine living for centuries and only aging 36 years. Oh, and starting out your existence as a man, then waking up one morning as a woman (thus experiencing “love” — sex — both ways). If that scenario intrigues you, and you are also amused by or interested in Old Queen Bess, cross-dressing, the struggle to write something “worthy,” exotic locales and gypsies..and much more…read Orlando.

Since the perfume, Orlando, inspired by Orlando the book, is by Jardins d’Écrivains (writers’ gardens), I will vouch for Virginia Woolf’s green-thumb connections — both her husband, Leonard, and the woman who inspired Orlando the book (Virginia Woolf’s one-time lover) Vita Sackville-West, were serious gardeners — Leonard on a small scale at Monk’s House, Vita on a grand, aristocratic scale (visit Sissinghurst Castle, her house and garden in England, if you’re ever near it).

I like the Jardins d’Écrivains perfume line (I especially admire George), and Orlando has become my second-favorite from the collection…

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