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Browsing by author: Kevin

Annick Goutal Eau de Monsieur ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 12 April 2016 17 Comments

Annick Goutal Eau de Monsieur

Released in the early 1980s, Eau de Monsieur1 was one of Annick Goutal‘s first perfumes. I was surprised to see Eau de Monsieur listed on the Annick Goutal website with a release date of…2013.

  1. Had it been reformulated in a BIG way?
  2. Was it a new perfume altogether?
  3. Did a content editor make a mistake?

(Answers: 1: Yes; 2: Sort of; 3: No)

Eau de Monsieur disappeared from the Annick Goutal line-up a long time ago (the 90s?) and has been recomposed by Camille Goutal with perfumer Isabelle Doyen…

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Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Cuba ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 6 April 2016 28 Comments

vintage Cuba travel posters

Queue the Omara Portuondo and read on!

Over the last decade, Santa Maria Novella seems to have less and less of a presence in the U.S. Do you, perfume fanatics, anxiously await a new Santa Maria Novella fragrance? I was not even aware of the latest Santa Maria Novella release: Cinquanta. Out of smell…out of mind?

After wearing a slew of dull new releases, I realized I’ve forgotten to review some old favorites, like Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Cuba. I first bought Acqua di Cuba in Florence at the old Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella near the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella. Want to discover the LUSH of the 17th century? Visit that aromatic shop…

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Burberry Mr. Burberry ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 30 March 2016 29 Comments

Mr. Burberry

Burberry just launched Mr. Burberry, a fragrance described as the ‘lover’ of 2014’s My Burberry. The first thing that came to my mind after smelling Mr. Burberry was: what a dull couple!

Burberry, fashion or fragrance, is not a favorite brand of mine…

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Helmut Lang Cuiron, Eau de Cologne & Eau de Parfum ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 25 March 2016 19 Comments

Helmut Lang fragrance brand image

Helmut Lang’s perfumes (originally issued in the early 2000s) are often described as “cult” fragrances. I never tried the perfumes when they made their debuts so my reviews will tackle today’s re-release formulas.

Cuiron

Françoise Caron, perfumer | 2002 (bergamot, tangerine, pink pepper, cassia, carrot seed, olibanum, labdanum, cedar, ambrette, suede)

Cuiron is a sheer leather fragrance, a combination of muskiness and salty/aquatic leather — imitation ambergris? Though Cuiron feels light, it has good tenacity and casts a wide net upon initial application…

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Hermes Equipage Geranium ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 18 March 2016 22 Comments

ink drawing of horse

I’ve probably said it before, and as I approach my 500th article for Now Smell This, I’ll probably forget and say it again: if I had to limit myself to one perfume house for my fragrance ‘needs,’ Hermès would win. No other brand, including Guerlain, Chanel, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Frédéric Malle…or Serge Lutens!…gets so much of my business. Hermès, under perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, has done a great job with flankers, too: Bel Ami Vétiver and Rose Amazone come to mind (Jean-Claude…where’s my Eau d’Hermès Mimosa? I’ve asked that you create this SEVERAL TIMES!) Ellena is responsible for Equipage Géranium, a new take on 1970’s Equipage (a Guy Robert creation).

Back in the day, I was an Equipage fanatic, and right now I possess a vintage bottle of the perfume…

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