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Browsing by author: Kevin

The Different Company Oud Shamash & Oud For Love ~ fragrance reviews & a quick oud poll

Posted by Kevin on 11 November 2016 32 Comments

The Different Company Oud Shamash & Oud For Love

I’m not vexed by (more) oud perfumes hitting the market…I’m bored with perfumes that proclaim their oud affiliation on their bottles: oud-this, oud-that — Oud! Aoud! Oudh!

If a fragrance is heavy on orange blossom or cedar or sage we usually don’t see those ingredients listed on labels ad nauseum. Perhaps the only other ingredient besides oud that is as advertised in perfume names is rose. So: when I hear an announcement of another oud fragrance, I don’t frown or sigh, I give it a try. Just this year I fell in love with, and bought, Diptyque’s Oud Palao.

The Different Company could not resist the tide of oud-named fragrances, and has given us TWO…

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Diptyque Kimonanthe ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 26 October 2016 23 Comments

Even the most jaded perfumistas like myself are not immune from the occasional jerky motion or drool as we read about a new fragrance. I’m sometimes brought out of the glazed-eye/nodding-off stage when a new perfume is by a house I love and a perfumer I admire, has a great list of notes and a well-done backstory. Diptyque Kimonanthe, the newest fragrance in the La Collection 34 series, sparked desire (and hope) for all these reasons.

Diptyque provided me with some of my earliest (and greatest) niche perfume experiences: I’ve owned (or own) L’Eau Trois, L’Ombre dans L’Eau, Olène, Ofrésia, Oud Palao, Tam Dao, Philosykos, Oyédo, Eau d’Elide, Eau Lente, Jardin Clos, L’Autre, L’Eau and Virgilio. I won’t even mention countless candles and gallons of Essence of John Galliano room spray…

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Zu-koh: incense powders for the body

Posted by Kevin on 25 October 2016 13 Comments

Along with glorious statues, ritual objects and religious texts and scholarship, incense arrived in Japan with Buddhism in the sixth century. Incense experienced in temples during Buddhist ceremonies must have inspired Japanese (who could afford it) to burn incense in their homes, not only to commemorate ancestors, deities and important life (and death) events, but to show they were sophisticated. Houses were scented, clothes were hung in ways and places to absorb incense aromas, hair was perfumed. Over the centuries lighthearted ways to enjoy incense were developed: the incense ceremony (kodo) and incense games (one of the most famous, Genji-ko, was associated with the eleventh-century novel The Tale of Genji).

Japanese incense blends changed over time, from complex mixes of ingredients formed into a variety of shapes to “purer” enjoyment of prized, rare, exorbitantly priced wood chips. Raw materials used for incense included shells, figwort, clove, benzoin, cinnamon, star anise, machilus (a member of the laurel family). The royalty of incense ingredients (enjoyed singly, too) were sandalwood and varieties of Aquilaria…

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Olympic Orchids Mardi Gras ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 19 October 2016 14 Comments

The Carnival King

Every year in late winter New Orleans puts on a grand party like no other. It’s a rainbow-hued, glittering, skanky, riotous celebration of everything there is to celebrate, flowing in and out like a shiny snake amidst the flower-strewn, humidity-drenched, decaying streets of the French Quarter. Mardi Gras may present a polite, rich veneer of real orange blossom and vanilla, like a southern belle delicately munching on a beignet dusted with powdered sugar, but behind the pretty, festive costume are dark undercurrents of voodoo and hoodoo, midnight rituals and outrageous secrets that can only be unleashed under the protective camouflage of the innocent-looking mask.

Olympic Orchids’ description of Mardi Gras1 is pretty apt; this perfume throws open the curtain on a sullied orange blossom — half dressed, distressed and a bit sweaty…

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Dame Perfumery Chocolate Man ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 12 October 2016 16 Comments

Theobroma cacao

“Kevin, would you like to smell chocolaty?”

“Are you kidding? Besides onions, garlic and seafood, that’s the last thing I want to smell like! I hate candy perfumes.” (Insert head-toss)

It’s a short walk from baked goods (I like scents with bread and cake notes), spices, and sweet “fancy” dessert aromas of violet and rose to — chocolate bars, fudge and icing. I took the necessary steps by buying a sample of Chocolate Man from Arizona-based Dame Perfumery last summer. I finally tried Chocolate Man this week, three months later, and am eating my anti-chocolate-perfume words…

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