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Browsing by author: Kevin

Vilhelm Parfumerie Dirty Velvet ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 12 April 2017 24 Comments

pink velvet

Vilhelm Parfumerie founder Jan Ahlgren, working with perfumer Jérôme Epinette, wanted to conjure “an old hotel on the Left Bank in Paris…blooming wallpaper in hushed hallways with heavy black doors….” The result, Dirty Velvet,1 was supposedly inspired by the Hôtel Villa d’Estrées in Paris. After perusing the hotel’s online photo gallery I’m confident not one piece of dirty velvet lies within its lovely walls. I’m pretty sure any dirty velvet brought into the hotel by guests could be sniffed out by staff at the front desk, confiscated and burned off-site.

I’ve come to associate certain fragrance houses with personalities, not locales such as cities — or hotels. For instance: let’s say I need help with an important personal matter and seek a Brand’s input. (An “I-need-advice”-type question). Timid Jo Malone and Atelier Cologne would be appalled I even asked the question; they’d wrinkle their noses, bite a lip and whisper a non-committal/exasperated response: “I really don’t know, Kevin. I’m so sorry. Can I go now?” Amouage will open its therapy lounge to me, but only if we’re covering important topics such as Man/Woman relationships, Epics, FATE, Myths and the like. Guerlain would fidget: “I have to get back to the laundry room…I need to put more scented dryer sheets in with my towels! I love scented dryer sheets!!!” Hermès and Frédéric Malle would widen their eyes…

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Spring Citrus: Atelier Cologne Clementine California & Citron d’Erable ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 5 April 2017 31 Comments

Citrus nobilis

Atelier Cologne fragrances are stacking up. In 2016, they released 10 perfumes, and as of this writing, I count 32 fragrances for sale on their website (that’s 32 fragrances released in under SEVEN years). Diptyque has been around almost 60 years and has about the same number of fragrances (not counting discontinuations) as Atelier Cologne. Frédéric Malle (10 years older than Atelier Cologne) has not broken the 30 mark (it sells 26 fragrances). But what a difference! Diptyque and Frédéric Malle sell some sensational, memorable perfumes. Atelier Cologne? Not really.

As the years have gone by, Atelier Cologne has developed a recognizable style: the perfume equivalent of the Lacoste polo shirt…

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Jo Malone Tobacco & Mandarin ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 29 March 2017 36 Comments

Jo Malone Tobacco & Mandarin

Inspired by the free-spirited artists of the legendary Bloomsbury group—writers, philosophers and intellectuals, most notable among them Virginia Woolf—this collection of scents captures the intoxicating essence of an unconventional life in their legendary country house in the Bloomsbury area. Each bottle in the collection is hand painted. —Nordstrom

As we perfumistas know, inspirations for scents rarely translate into realistic representations: “This perfume is SO Virginia Woolf!” That’s fine…we can still enjoy the resulting perfume even if it’s not catty, depressed, inhibited, or a genius. But why can’t Nordstrom get the country house right in the PR above? The Bloomsbury area of metro London is NOT the country and the houses there associated with the Bloomsbury group are on Gordon Square. You have to travel 90 minutes outside London to see THE country house of the Bloomsbury set: Charleston farmhouse…

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Top 10 Spring Fragrances 2017

Posted by Kevin on 24 March 2017 59 Comments

Audubon, American Robin

1946: French writer Colette went to Switzerland, where she would undergo treatment for severe and painful arthritis. She was delighted to find that the sparrows around her lodgings in Geneva were tame. They flew into her room from the balcony, slept under her bed, ate from her hands. They would even chirp protests when she would lock them out of the bathroom as she bathed. One day she found a pair of sparrows snuggling in a fold of her bedspread. She startled them and they flew away. Colette wrote:

This gave me fair warning that the time was not far off when I should discover one individual among their small, indefinite band, the particular one, the one who preferred me and was mine by preference. With the animal world, we are subject to the same perils every time. To choose, to be chosen, to love: the very next moment we are beset by anxiety, the danger of loss, and the fear of spreading regret. What an array of big words when the subject is but a sparrow! Yes, a sparrow. In love, there is never a question of smallness. 1

A perfect segue to the love for, and smallness of…perfumes…

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Violets for (Almost) Spring: Nomenclature Lumen_esce & Agustin Reyes Royal Violets

Posted by Kevin on 17 March 2017 33 Comments

Nomenclature Lumen_esce

Niche line Nomenclature “celebrates design in perfume chemistry by showcasing today’s most inspiring, exclusive molecules.” The Nomenclature line presents synthetic perfume ingredients. I have a hard time thinking of an “inspiring” new scent molecule! Please comment if you have a favorite!

Nomenclature says:

While natural essences bask in the limelight, synthetics are the clandestine infiltrators that spark off fragrant revolutions. It was the discovery of coumarin that yielded the first modern perfume, Fougère Royale, in 1881. Aldehydes lent their abstract sheen to Chanel N°5. Ethyl-vanillin enhanced Shalimar’s plush cleavage. Hedione® breathed its radiance into Eau Sauvage. And no contemporary scent could do without synthetic musk or the ubiquitous Iso E Super. Whether they imitate nature, tease out its innermost secrets or veer off into botanically impossible smells, synthetics are the true building blocks of perfumery. Elegant solutions discovered by scientists, wafting from labs onto skin and into your nose.

One certainly would expect such talk from firms like Firmenich who developed and patented Violettyne®, the focal ingredient in Nomenclature Lumen_esce…

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