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Browsing by author: Kevin

Diptyque L’Autre ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 20 September 2017 14 Comments

“Capturing the memory of long walks through the spice markets of Damascus, L’Autre is a dry, sensual blend that recreates all the mesmerizing magic found in the rich landscape of the Orient,” says Diptyque of its second perfume, released in 1973.

I associate the name L’Autre* (The Other) — given the supposed fragrance inspiration — as representing separateness: a tourist surrounded by new sights and sounds and smells and regarding himself or those around him as The Other. “Autre” in my French dictionary takes up half a page, so interpretations may vary! Certainly given L’Autre’s bold nature, many smelling it, including perfume lovers, may recoil and feel L’Autre is The Other…

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Guerlain Pour Troubler ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 13 September 2017 10 Comments

Guerlain Pour Troubler

It’s been a long time since a new Guerlain fragrance tempted me. Even Guerlain old timers have fallen out of favor. I’ve found vetiver perfumes I prefer to Guerlain Vétiver. Mitsouko is now used in my house more as a home fragrance than a perfume to put on my person. Jicky don’t smell like Jicky no more (sounds like the title of a 1920s song, doesn’t it?) The only Guerlain survivors pour moi are Habit Rouge and Les Eaux — Eau de Cologne Impériale, Eau de Cologne du Coq, Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat and Eau de Guerlain.

I came across (and bought) a small bottle of Guerlain’s 1911 Pour Troubler1 Extrait years ago…

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Byredo Encens Chembur ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 6 September 2017 22 Comments

One of my favorite times of year to wear incense perfumes is during Indian Summer — when days are hot and nights are chilly. Light and soft incense perfumes fit perfectly with the scents of dry leaves and the lingering aromas of smoke from neighborhood fireplaces.

Many of my once-favorite incense perfumes no longer appeal; their artificial ingredients have become obnoxious to me, maybe due to reformulations or my nose getting accustomed (and sensitive) to Iso E Super, Cashmeran, Ambrox and the like. (And must vanilla be in everything?)

Though I appreciate many Byredo fragrances (I love Pulp), I missed Encens Chembur’s debut nine years ago…

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J.F. Schwarzlose Treffpunkt 8 Urh, Perris Monte Carlo Absolue d’Osmanthe & Le Galion Special for Gentlemen ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 30 August 2017 16 Comments

Horror of horrors…Labor Day is next Monday! Though some Northwesterners (not me! I’m still a Californian at heart) love the onset of dark, chilly days, stormy weather and rain, rain, rain, I’d prefer to be someplace sunny. I’m preparing for autumn in Perfumeland by clearing out many hundreds of perfume samples I’ve accumulated over the last six months (they will find good homes). I’m sad to report that out of those hundreds of samples, not many stood out; and I’ve already reviewed most of the ones I liked/loved. (Of course, my complaints of showers, clutter and fragrance disappointments are all ridiculous “problems,” but getting lost for an hour in perfume fantasy is a refuge, and I can make people laugh when I lament: “What will I review NEXT week?” Such a weighty question….)

BUT: in this last clean-up, I’ve discovered three perfumes worth sniffing…

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Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 23 August 2017 24 Comments

When it comes to perfume inspirations, designer Naomi Goodsir had an original one: bakelite — one of the first plastics. I admit to laughing as I read Nuit de Bakélite1 PR materials (Goodsir collects bakelite objects). But who am I to laugh? I’d happily work with perfumer Isabelle Doyen myself if she’d help me turn some favorite things into gorgeous perfume. Isabelle, let’s create Jour d’Essence de Térébenthine2or La Grotte des Boules de Mites3. Just this week Angela here at NST reviewed a perfume made with concrete in mind!

Bakelite is, in fact, an honored substance…

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