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Browsing by author: Kevin

Hermes Eau de Citron Noir ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 18 April 2018 29 Comments

Following a path through the olfactory universe of hesperidia led me into a vast world, dotted with surprises, with citrus fruits. Finger lime, Buddha’s hand fruit, Eureka lemon…. So many unusual varieties of citrus appealed to me, but it was the smoky and distinguished black lime that finally stood out as the key note. — Christine Nagel

When Hermès announced Eau de Citron Noir I was thrilled. It was (maybe) full of things I love: citrus galore, black tea, guaiac wood. My nose itched for a sniff but, wisely, I didn’t just up and buy Eau de Citron Noir before smelling it. It has become my most recent and glaring example of the distance between desire and description — and reality.

Black lime (the dried fruit) as a perfume note intrigued me the most. These hard, charcoal-colored limes are used in Middle Eastern cuisine, and have a complex aroma: musty, fermented, charred, sweet and sour (think citrus-and-sugar-spiked rice vinegar); they smell like the inside of a well-used, wooden Indian spice box that’s held a variety of spices for decades…

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Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 12 April 2018 13 Comments

Gucci recently launched Guilty Absolute Pour Femme* — a new flanker to 2010’s Gucci Guilty. Guilty Absolute Pour Femme is the female counterpart to 2017’s Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme (which I bought and enjoy). What attracted me to Guilty Absolute Pour Femme was its blackberry note (accentuated visually by its purple bottle). I was hoping for a sparkling, natural-smelling blackberry accord mixed with rose and touches of patchouli and Nootka cypress (GoldenWood): a happy summer perfume…

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Diptyque Fleur de Peau ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 21 March 2018 18 Comments

In ancient Greece, one myth stood out as the most passionate and sensual: the love between Psyche and Eros, the beauty’s quest to meet with her lover and the happy outcome of their union which led to the birth of their daughter, Hedone. Only one scent can convey this legend as a fragrance, that of musks. Equally legendary, they have the unique ability to enhance the skin with their arousing carnal accents. They are at the very heart of Fleur de Peau, as cottony and light as they are soft and moist. — Diptyque

With the launch of Fleur de Peau1, Diptyque celebrates the 50th anniversary of its first perfume — L’Eau. I’ve gotten so many suggestions on the translation of the phrase à fleur de peau (“on edge”) that I will use my own instinct regarding Eros and Psyche. Fleur de Peau = horny. So there. After wearing Fleur de Peau, I believe the agitated lovers are, in spirit, millennials.

In a recent New York Times article, The New Softies, Rachel Syme noted the types of minimalist perfumes (the ‘softies’) that appeal to millennials…

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Comme des Garcons Eau de Cologne & Oriza L. Legrand Cologne Extra-Vielle ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 7 March 2018 9 Comments

lemon

Soon, Seattle will have its one week of spring followed by a long, hot, dry summer (such is the new ‘normal’ in the climate-changing world). As I gear up for warm weather, I start to test citrus-y Eaux de Cologne, looking for refreshing, sparkling, natural-smelling perfumes to wear when the going gets sultry. These fragrances need not last longer than 10 minutes: I use them most right out of the shower (before putting on a stronger perfume) or at bedtime (when long-lasting fragrances are verboten).

Comme des Garçons has reissued its 1994 1996 Eau de Cologne as part of the Olfactory Library series…

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Xinu Monstera & Carta Moena 12|69 ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 21 February 2018 17 Comments

Ad copy for most perfumes leaves me cold, or laughing. Aspirational advertising (looking at you, Aerin Lauder) feels icky and old fashioned. Sexy images can be fun to look at but I don’t see a handsome half-naked (or fully naked for that matter) man in an ad campaign and then run to Nordstrom to buy the perfume he fronts. Occasionally, I come across an interesting perfume bottle I’d like to own, but it’s usually a vintage bottle selling at an exorbitant price. I’ve never bought a contemporary perfume for the bottle alone (my bottles stay out of sight in a dark, cool cabinet their entire “lives”).

Advertising that can get to me includes (who knew?) perfumes inspired by dead French people1 — the likes of Marquis de Sade, Joséphine de Beauharnais, Napoléon Bonaparte, Louise de La Vallière, Marie-Antoinette, Empress Eugénie, George Sand, Léonora Dori Concini, La Maréchale d’Ancre and Colette. A list of intriguing botanical fragrance notes or places I love or want to visit (travel-porn perfumes) can entice me, too.

Today, I’m reviewing two fragrances that ignited wanderlust based on ingredients and locales, with great bottles thrown in as a bonus…

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Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

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Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
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Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

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