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Browsing by author: Kevin

Guerlain Vol de Nuit fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 28 June 2007 35 Comments

Guerlain Vol de Nuit perfume

Whenever I have a bout of insomnia on terra firma, I do not count sheep or backwards from 1000, nor do I imagine myself on a deserted beach in a comfy hammock; I imagine myself on an airplane, high in the sky, at night. Put me in a window seat with my neck-rest, pillow, eye mask, blanket and earplugs and you will behold a man who can sleep from Seattle to Bangkok. I do love “flying,” especially at night; on an airplane, the engine’s hum and vibration, the isolation, and the suspension of physical activity all induce drowsiness and serenity.

Guerlain’s Vol de Nuit (Night Flight) was (supposedly) inspired by the 1931 novel of the same name by aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. I read Vol de Nuit and assume Guerlain loved its title and figured out a way to incorporate the story into Vol de Nuit’s advertising. Vol de Nuit, le parfum, in no way conjures up the sense of danger and high altitude excitement the novel depicts…

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CBMUSK from the CB I Hate Perfume Reinvention series ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 20 June 2007 25 Comments

Musk Deer

After reviewing Serge Lutens’ Muscs Koublaï Khan, I decided to explore perfumes with musk as the main attraction and started to read about real musk. Writing about CBMUSK on his website, perfumer Christopher Brosius of CB I Hate Perfume says: “True Tonkin Musk no longer exists in the contemporary world…. So this is my own interpretation of what I’d always imagined real musk to smell of. Whether it does or does not, I cannot know.”

Fortunately, Tonkin musk does exist because musk deer (Moschus moschiferus) still survive. Unfortunately, the musk they produce is obtained illegally by poachers and sold for use in traditional medicines and, to a lesser extent these days, in perfumery…

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Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 13 June 2007 31 Comments

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue for men fragrance

When I went to Nordstrom to smell Dolce & Gabbana’s new Light Blue Pour Homme fragrance, I asked the sales woman, “What’s new and doesn’t smell like everything else?” She clapped her hands and gestured towards a large Gucci Pour Homme II display. I told her I had already tried Gucci Pour Homme II, so she suggested Lancôme Hypnôse Homme or Terre d’Hermès or Dunhill Pursuit or Fleur du Mâle or Viktor & Rolf Antidote or Lacoste Elegance or …. Finally, I asked point-blank about Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Pour Homme and she said, “That’s OK — but it smells like lots of other colognes.” Her response was unusual; at Nordstrom all scents are “wonderful,” “fabulous” or, at the very least, “interesting”…

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Christian Dior Fahrenheit 32 ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 8 June 2007 27 Comments

Christian Dior Fahrenheit 32 TV ad

Fahrenheit 32 is the creation of Hedi Slimane (Christian Dior’s former artistic director), perfumer Louise Turner, and François Demachy, current director of perfume development at Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy. Fahrenheit 32 is described as a “fresh oriental” and its main ingredients are orange blossom, vetiver and vanilla — with added “fresh notes,” a “solar note” and aldehydes.

The only similarity between “original” Fahrenheit and Fahrenheit 32 is the shape of their bottles, so judge Fahrenheit 32 on its own merits.

If Fahrenheit was about ‘heat’, Fahrenheit 32, with its name (the temperature at which water freezes), packaging (frosty white and metallic) and advertisements (featuring high altitudes) seems to proclaim its “coolness” — while using rather “warm” ingredients…

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Christian Dior Fahrenheit for men ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 7 June 2007 30 Comments

Christian Dior Fahrenheit cologne for men

As far as perfume shopping is concerned, you will not often find me wandering in The Realms of the Well-Known (department stores). Call me a ‘niche-picker’ since you will find me scouring little boutiques (both brick-and-mortar and online) for unusual and little-known fragrances. Niche scents are usually expensive (rarely available at a discount price) and are often hard to find (and sample), so it’s always a pleasant surprise to find a ‘mainstream’ scent with a distinctive character.

In the early nineties, I bought my one and only bottle of Fahrenheit by Christian Dior. I enjoyed it but when the bottle was empty I didn’t restock the fragrance; the world was full of scents I wanted to own and there was no time for repeats. In preparing to review Fahrenheit 32 (posting tomorrow), I decided to revisit Fahrenheit. It was a happy reunion…

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