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Browsing by author: Kevin

Narciso Rodriguez For Him ~ fragrance review, with an aside on Houbigant Fougere Royale

Posted by Kevin on 15 August 2007 25 Comments

Narciso Rodriguez For Him

Rarely do “simple” fragrances (scents with few ingredients or little development) hold my attention or gain my affection. I prefer perfumes that change their expression several times a day — perfumes that make a journey. The uncomplicated scents I do wear tend to be classic compositions made with rich ingredients (woods/resins, spices, incense or leather notes). I own several fragrances whose development is minimal: Christian Lacroix’ Tumulte (pour homme), Maître Parfumeur et Gantier’s Parfum d’Habit and Hermès Bel Ami. These warm scents begin with a glint, a spark, and settle almost immediately into a long-lasting glow — Narciso Rodriguez’ For Him is such a scent.

For Him is fashion designer Narciso Rodriguez’ debut men’s fragrance. “This fragrance is the first extension of my men’s wear collection,” Rodriguez told Women’s Wear Daily (May 18, 2007). “It is an important component of the total image, an expression of the man. For Him enhances the existing foundation of my vision for men’s wear and is the first of many categories to come.” For Him was created by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian and is composed of violet leaf, patchouli, amber and musk. According to Parfums Narciso Rodriguez Vice President, Nathalie Helloin-Kamel (also quoted in WWD), For Him’s inspiration came from an earlier era of men’s perfumery: “The benchmark was the great fougères of the Eighties.”

The fougère (fern) category of men’s fragrances is large…

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Bitter/Sweet: The ‘Bought-Unsniffed’ Report

Posted by Kevin on 9 August 2007 67 Comments

Christian Dior Jules fragrance

Years ago, while perusing Larousse Gastronomique, I saw a beautiful photo of a cherry clafoutis. The clafoutis had been baked in an emerald-green provençale dish and had been placed on a black-and-cream-colored toile de Jouy cloth that covered a shady spot beneath an ancient olive tree; an antique tin bucket, full of sparkling ice and a bottle of wine, had been set on the ground next to the clafoutis. It all looked so delightful! I had to eat clafoutis! So I made clafoutis (several times) and each time I wondered: how can fresh eggs, butter, milk, sugar and sweet cherries turn into THIS mess, this eggy, soggy pile that becomes inedible just minutes out of the oven? Being tempted to buy a perfume you have not smelled is a lot like finding a new recipe: you read the ingredients, look at a gorgeous illustration, and think “I love everything in this! It sounds and looks delicious!” Acting on a hunch that everything will work out fine, you prepare the recipe (or, as the case may be, buy the perfume). Sometimes you relish the result. Sometimes you become nauseous.

I’ve had decades to learn my perfume lessons. I know I shouldn’t buy a fragrance without sampling it beforehand…

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Ashleigh & Burwood Garden Incense Home Fragrance Review

Posted by Kevin on 29 July 2007 Leave a Comment

When Terre d’Oc stopped making its Japanese Garden Citrus and Citronella Garden Incense I was very upset. Terre d’Oc’s long-burning, 19-inch bâtons d’encens were perfect for outdoor parties. They produced a gentle citrus fragrance that didn’t interfere with the tastes of food and drink. I put the incense sticks directly into the ground in dark or shaded areas of the garden where their lazy silver smoke was easily seen. I often placed a burning incense stick under my umbrella-shaped Harlequin Glorybower tree next to a Chinese Buddha statue; hours would pass, the yard would smell great and Buddha would look as if he were sitting on a silver-blue cloud. In very un-Buddha-like fashion, I cursed Terre d’Oc for discontinuing their garden incense line.

Thankfully, I’ve found a replacement for the defunct Terre d’Oc garden incense: Ashleigh & Burwood’s Garden Incense sticks; these sticks are also huge (22 inches long) and meant for outdoor use…

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The End is Here: A Scented Dialogue — Monsieur Balmain, Old & New

Posted by Kevin on 27 July 2007 57 Comments

Balmain Monsieur Balmain cologne for men

Setting: A crowded perfume cabinet in the Pacific Northwest.

Main Characters:

Monsieur Balmain (“Monsieur”): the original Pierre Balmain fragrance for men;

Monsieur Balmain (“MB”): the reformulated version of Monsieur Balmain.

Monsieur “awakes” and is startled to see a new, bright yellow bottle standing next to him on the perfume shelf.

Monsieur: Excusez-moi monsieur, we have not been introduced. Could you turn just a bit…. What? Is this a joke? MY name is Monsieur Balmain, yet “Monsieur Balmain” is written on your garish bottle…

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Jacques Fath Green Water fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 16 July 2007 10 Comments

Jacques Fath Green Water cologne

Scorching weather has arrived — even in the usually temperate Northwest. Last week, the temperature in downtown Seattle hovered around 100 degrees Fahrenheit! During that heat spell I wore an old favorite fragrance: Jacques Fath’s Green Water.

French fashion designer Jacques Fath has been dead for over 50 years and few people recognize his name, but in his heyday in the 1940s and early 1950s, he was considered an innovative designer (and marketer) of women’s clothes. His designs were featured in films and his clientele included Greta Garbo, Rita Hayworth and Ava Gardner. Fath died of leukemia at the peak of his fame at age 42 and his fashion house never really recovered from his loss — no matter who owned it or designed for it. Jacques Fath perfumes were kept in production…

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