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Browsing by author: Kevin

Thierry Mugler A*Men (Angel Men) ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 3 April 2008 60 Comments

Thierry Mugler AngelMen fragrance

Smelling the combined fragrance notes of A*Men (bergamot, lavender, mint, coriander, patchouli, Atlas cedar, roasted coffee, chocolate, caramel, “tar”/styrax, tonka, musk and aldehydes) is akin (I imagine) to drinking a purée composed of all the foods and beverages you plan on consuming in one day — both are unsavory experiences.

Introduced in Europe in September 1996, Thierry Mugler’s A*Men was created by perfumer Jacques Huclier and was a follow-up to Mugler’s best-selling 1992 women’s scent: Angel. The chocolate-caramel-infused Angel is credited with starting the trend towards foody notes in perfume (Women’s Wear Daily, 6/21/96) and when A*Men came to the U.S. in the spring of 1997, it was stocked not only in the men’s fragrance department at Saks Fifth Avenue, but in the women’s perfume section as well. (It was hoped that Angel-loving women would buy A*Men for the men in their lives — or for themselves.)

Since I knew I’d be reviewing the soon-to-be-released A*Men Pure Coffee fragrance, I thought I should try A*Men first…

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Bijan Nude For Men ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 27 March 2008 58 Comments

I’m a fan of the two original Bijan fragrances (Bijan Men and Bijan Women). When they were first released, those perfumes were sold at Bijan’s own shop in Beverly Hills and at “prestigious” department stores like Bullocks Wilshire in Los Angeles. These days, I’m not sure if Bijan perfumes are sold anywhere but at his store and discount perfume shops. Bijan prides himself on the exclusivity and high quality of the products he sells, and I’m sure Bijan has smelled and worn some great fragrances over the years, so it’s a shock that the most recent (2007) Bijan release, Nude for Men, smells so bad and is of such low quality. Either Bijan has lost his sense of smell or (as I suspect) he has zero input on the cosmetics that bear his name. Five Star Fragrance Co. (the perfume manufacturer and distributor known for such ‘classics’ as GALORE and ROYAL SECRET) makes Bijan Nude, and as of this writing, their website is non-operational. I believe Bijan Nude was created specifically for the discount market — the perfume equivalent of a new movie bypassing theatrical release and going straight to DVD…

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Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 21 March 2008 50 Comments

Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche fragrance

I wonder if my appreciation for Chanel’s Allure Homme Édition Blanche was unduly influenced by the fact I smelled it after four days of intensive testing of Allure Homme (ho-hum) and Allure Homme Sport (a nostril-searing, abrasive fragrance)? If so, I’m sorry — I can’t rewind and erase those days (and smells); compared with Allure Homme and Allure Homme Sport, Allure Homme Édition Blanche is delicious, natural smelling and ‘peaceful.’

Allure Homme Édition Blanche (created by Jacques Polge) contains lemon, bergamot, cedar, sandalwood, tonka bean, white musk, vetiver, ginger, amber, vanilla, white and pink pepper. What I noticed immediately upon spraying on Allure Homme Édition Blanche was its quality — its ingredients smell more expensive than those used in the other two Allure fragrances I tested. Allure Homme Édition Blanche is a creamy fragrance but still has some sparkle thanks to its citrus, ginger, and vetiver notes…

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Chanel Allure Homme & Allure Homme Sport ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 20 March 2008 37 Comments

Chanel Allure Homme fragrance for men

There are plenty of new men’s fragrances to review this spring, but before reviewing Chanel Allure Homme Édition Blanche, I thought it might be interesting to smell and “discuss” the previous Allure offerings for men (both created by Chanel house perfumer Jacques Polge) — Allure Homme and Allure Homme Sport.

Chanel Allure Homme (1998)

Allure Homme contains bergamot, mandarin, citron zest, pepper, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, tonka bean and labdanum. The fragrance starts off with an artificial-smelling, alcohol-y and acidic accord; these opening notes are, to my nose, ugly, harsh and sour. Thankfully, Allure Homme’s opening notes begin to subside within 10 minutes’ wear and what comes next is a hazy, well-blended mix of woody, vanillic and earthy notes…

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Rochas Lui ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 11 March 2008 39 Comments

Rochas Lui fragrance

I know many people who love perfumes but who do not have the “vocabulary” to describe them; as they struggle to identify “notes” or “accords” they falter and become frustrated. But sometimes those same people can make a perfume come alive for me when they forget about the ‘notes’ and describe a scene or feeling the perfume inspired. Like all perfume lovers, I often experience vivid images and emotions as I smell a perfume for the first time:

LUI

It is a hot summer day. I am alone in a small, stuffy, dim and cluttered room that is decorated in the Victorian style. The room’s windows are closed and covered by heavy, moss-green curtains. The room’s walls are papered with dusty pink (and flocked) wallpaper in a Fleur-de-Lys pattern…

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