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Browsing by author: Kevin

L’Atelier Boheme Immortelle ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 12 June 2008 16 Comments

Pomegranate

My mother preferred her perfumes served up in lotions, creams, or bath products, and she wasn’t stingy in the use of toiletries. Mother wasn’t a snob when it came to perfumes either — she used every drop of every fragrance anyone ever gave her, whether that fragrance was by Avon or Guerlain. I use perfumes I tire of or don’t particularly like as air fresheners; my mother used such perfumes in another way — she’d pour entire bottles of scent into a tub filled with hot water and Mr. Bubble; in summer, when our house’s windows were left open, you could always tell when she was taking a soak in the tub — the scent of fragrant water and suds wafted from the bathroom window into our yard (and into neighbors’ yards too). The moment I got a whiff of L’Atelier Bohème Immortelle, I thought of my mother and her perfumed bathing extravaganzas, and I remembered, especially, the fragrances she wore when I was growing up: Guy Laroche Fidji, Chanel No. 19 and Norell.

Immortelle was created by perfumer Crystelle Darchicourt (who needs to hire a good translator for the English version of her website); it contains tangerine, bergamot, white flowers, pomegranate, amber and immortelle. In ad copy for Immortelle, L’Atelier Bohème mentions the goddess Juno (and her attendant, the peacock) and pomegranates — symbols of fertility, bounty and immortality (the immortelle flower is likewise “ageless”, refusing to wilt even after being harvested). Immortelle, the perfume, is not “immortal” — overall it’s a mild fragrance that stays close to the body, and it needs to be reapplied at least once on the days one wears it…

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Etat Libre d’Orange Tom of Finland ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 4 June 2008 24 Comments

Tom of Finland drawing

According to État Libre d’Orange and the Tom of Finland Foundation, Touko Laaksonen (a.k.a. Tom of Finland) “was one of the most influential artists of the last century” and before he began creating his beefcake illustrations in the 1950s, gay men went around lisping and limp-wristed, dressed in chiffon or dandy garb or they huddled — scared, bony and uptight — in dark corners, nervously adjusting their ties, cardigans and horn-rimmed specs. In other words, gay life, pre-Tom of Finland, was full of flamers and nerds. Perhaps Tom of Finland’s aesthetic influenced the world of fashion (and ‘gym culture’) for some gay men who hopped onto his brawny bandwagon and dressed in tight jeans and t-shirts, leather boots and jackets…

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Givenchy Vetyver ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 30 May 2008 51 Comments

Hubert de Givenchy

Judging by photographs alone, designer Hubert de Givenchy is a man who is comfortable in his skin (and in his well-tailored, but understated, clothes); he always appears at ease — though his eyes often have a dreamy and sad air about them. I can’t imagine Givenchy having a temper tantrum, but I can believe the restrained and lovely Vétyver is his favorite cologne.

Vétyver debuted in 1959 and it was discontinued after Givenchy retired in 1995. Vétyver is a member of Les Mythiques — a group of classic Givenchy fragrances that have been re-launched in newly designed packaging…

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Courvoisier L’edition Imperiale ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 27 May 2008 17 Comments

Courvoisier L’edition Imperiale

For several years, I’ve been mourning the discontinuation (and disappearance) of a favorite fragrance, and I’ve searched high and low for it. A Perfume Detective is on the case. (I won’t reveal the perfume’s name till I secure every bottle remaining on the planet. Yes, greed!) Last summer, in Padova, Italy, I smelled a fragrance that was the closest I’ll probably ever come to my beloved, but discontinued, perfume — unless it’s reissued — but I could not get the name of the fragrance since the two people I smelled it on got lost in the crowd: a beautifully dressed woman walking her two dachshunds (also nicely appointed) and a man scurrying by my table as I had lunch at an outdoor cafe. I shared the pain of these close encounters with lots of people and one of those people, a Now Smell This reader in Europe, Dusan, said he would keep a nose out for the fragrance after I described it to him. I made one assumption about the mystery fragrance since I smelled it on a man and a woman in the space of a few hours: the scent must be new, circa spring/summer of 2007. About a month or so ago, Dusan recommended I sniff Courvoisier’s L’edition Imperiale; he felt it came close to the descriptions I gave him of the discontinued fragrance and the Padova perfume…

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Nasomatto Hindu Grass ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 14 May 2008 13 Comments

Nasomatto Hindu Grass perfume

The Nasomatto website would have been a perfect place for Prix Eau Faux contestants to get inspiration. Amsterdam-based Nasomatto is secretive (no fragrance notes are given for any of their perfumes and the owners/perfumers provide only their first names — Alessandro* and Arturetto — and cryptic bios online). One offering, Hindu Grass, “aims to breathe the belief in universal peace and love”. I was able to distance myself from the bad writing and annoying coyness of Nasomatto’s “Manifesto” when I saw their handsome bottles (I want one) and read the name Hindu Grass…

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