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Browsing by author: Kevin

Top 10 Summer Fragrances 2008

Posted by Kevin on 18 July 2008 61 Comments

Top 10 of Summer

Summer: it’s the best of times (fresh flowers, fruits and vegetables — songbirds and butterflies in the garden); it’s the worst of times (muggy, bug-infested days of unbearable heat). On the brightest, breeziest summer days (when the temperature is below, let’s say, 78 degrees), I feel happy and fling open the windows in my house to “freshen my life;” I listen to Canteloube’s Songs of the Auvergne at high volume and imagine myself running, buff and tan, thru poppy-dotted country fields in IMAX — I feel energized and immortal. Then, when the temperature soars, my spirits and outlook plummet: oily faced, limp haired, mean as a snake and with cold booze in hand, I retreat to dark rooms or my basement — and mope (when I’m not lashing out at friends, family, cats).

A summer arsenal of perfumes should make the good days better and the doldrums bearable. For me, summer is a time for sprightly perfumes, and just like I try to grow new things in my summer garden each year — I like to wear new fragrances. Here are a few of my recent discoveries:

A ‘soapy’ cologne is a must for me in summer. Balmain's Ivoire de Balmain smells like a scented summer bouquet sprinkled with pepper and dabbed with labdanum…

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Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Bois de Turquie ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 8 July 2008 27 Comments

I’m a fan of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier; I wear, or have worn: Route du Vetiver (my favorite vetiver fragrance), Jardin du Nil, Parfum d’Habit, Iris Bleu Gris, and — a top compliment-getter — Baïmé. I’ve been looking forward to Bois de Turquie’s release and wondering what makes wood smell Turkish.

Bois de Turquie contains bergamot, tangerine, orange blossom, Laurus nobilis, geranium, iris, jasmine, ginger, cinnamon, sandalwood, patchouli, myrrh and frankincense. Bois de Turquie is smooth and semi-sweet on application; its citrus notes, both fruity and floral, are warm, not cold or bracing. The mid-development of Bois de Turquie smells a bit herbal and “leafy” (bay leaf and geranium become apparent). A powdery iris-jasmine accord follows the leafy stage and gives Bois de Turquie a quiet, lazy vibe…

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Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre & Bvlgari Blv Pour Homme ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 2 July 2008 4 Comments

Getting to know civet as a fragrance note can make you gag. Put some costus roots under your nose one fine morn and you may skip breakfast. “Investigating” ginger, doing your ginger homework, is more pleasant: take a crisp ginger root and rub it between your fingers, bruise it with your fingernail, and inhale its lively and clean aroma (bite into the root for added credit); smell and taste yellow powdered ginger; slowly chew a piece of sticky, candied ginger; drink an old fashioned spicy ginger ale; and finally, eat a moist slice of warm gingerbread, straight from the oven, washed down with a ginger infusion, made using boiling water and sliced ginger root (sugar and milk optional). You are now ready to recognize ginger in fragrance.

Serge Lutens Five O'Clock Au Gingembre

In his Five O’Clock Au Gingembre Eau de Parfum, Serge Lutens places candied (not fresh) ginger in a tea-time setting and surrounds it with foody notes…

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Armani Prive Vetiver Babylone & Chanel Sycomore ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 23 June 2008 69 Comments

If my perfume choices were limited to one type of fragrance with one note predominant, chances are I would opt for vetiver colognes. (I’d probably have to flip a coin: Sandalwood vs. Vetiver.) I love vetiver fragrances and have owned too many to list here. Recently, my introduction to Lalique Encre Noir, the reissue of Givenchy Vétyver and the debuts of Giorgio Armani's Vétiver Babylone and Chanel's Sycomore have made me very happy and ready to expand an already-overcrowded perfume collection.

Les Eaux Armani Privé Vétiver Babylone

Just as sparkling, fresh water sustained ancient Babylon’s (real or imaginary) fragrant hanging gardens, Vétiver Babylone’s vetiver, likewise sparkling and fresh, supports its other brisk ingredients — bergamot, citron, mandarin, green cardamom, coriander, pink pepper and patchouli…

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Montale Red Aoud & Agallocha Tedallal Homme ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 18 June 2008 45 Comments

I love the richness and unabashed potency of Middle Eastern and Indian fragrances. One of my first ‘exotic’ fragrance purchases was a tiny jar of waxy sandalwood-amber paste from India; a few dabs of that dense perfume paste on my collar bone scented me all day long. The perfume paste also came in the scents of orange blossom, rose, lotus and jasmine, and the entire line was advertised using the image of a turbaned man applying the perfume paste to his throat. Slowly and, unfortunately, turban-less, I ventured into floral territory with my fragrance purchases. The simple, inexpensive Indian perfumes opened up a new world to me: I started reading about the history of perfumery, I created “to-smell lists” of individual plant and animal perfume notes, and I started burning incense and wearing fragrances from India, Nepal, Egypt, Saudi Arabia and Morocco. Both Montale Red Aoud and Agallocha Tedallal Homme were inspired by Middle Eastern perfumery…

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