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Browsing by author: Kevin

Prada Infusion d’Homme ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 24 September 2008 47 Comments

Prada Infusion d'Homme fragrance

I bet lots of Now Smell This readers can relate to the following scenario: you’re in, say, Paris (somewhere “foreign,” far from home) and you find yourself in one of those shops that sells expensive little rarities — red silk Chinese lanterns with hand-painted calligraphy, tiny porcelain monkey figurines from Thailand, gold-and-horn letter openers from Kenya, babouches from Morocco — and you come across a gorgeous box of soap; each hefty bar of soap is wrapped in handmade paper and tied with a heavy ribbon. The scent of the soap is lovely but you don’t recognize the manufacturer, have never heard of or seen this delightful product before. The enticing perfume rising from the box of soap makes you imagine using it back home: it will make you feel confident and happy, it will remind you of your trip, it will make you feel rich and glamorous. You look at the price tag: the box of soap is $120 — $40 a bar!

In shock, you put down the box of soap and start wandering around the shop. You think: “This is outrageously priced!” “Decadent!” You attempt to gauge how long the box of soap will last…a month? six weeks? “So each bath will cost.…” As you pace around the shop, listening to Shirley Bassey singing Diamonds Are Forever on the sound system, your mind becomes calmer, your thoughts clearer…

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Cartier Roadster ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 16 September 2008 44 Comments

Cartier Roadster cologne for men

Roadster is Cartier’s first men’s fragrance launch in 10 8 years (Déclaration Must de Cartier Pour Homme was released in 2000) and Cartier hopes Roadster will attract a younger male consumer to the brand’s fragrances (apparently, Cartier men’s colognes are sold mostly to men over 45 years of age).* The Roadster fragrance is named after a Cartier watch (you guessed it — the Roadster; see below) and is contained inside a bottle whose cap design was inspired by the watch’s crown. Roadster is a perfume with a vague “automotive” connection (see the tire rim-like rings on the bottle’s collar?) Philippe Nazaret, assistant vice president of Cartier's North American fragrance division calls Roadster “a gemstone” referring to the “transparency and luminosity” of Roadster’s bottle — “a bottle designed to stand on its side to suggest motion.”* Pardon me if I’m a little confused.

One thing I do understand: Cartier Roadster is minty. Perfumer Mathilde Laurent built a fragrance around mint — accented with bergamot, vetiver, labdanum, patchouli, Cashmere wood and vanilla. Even though I like every listed fragrance note in Roadster, minty colognes are problematic…

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Dior Homme Sport by Christian Dior ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 10 September 2008 31 Comments

Dior Homme Sport cologne

Christian Dior's Dior Homme, judging from online fragrance websites, is a beloved cologne with high approval ratings, but Dior Homme smells ordinary (and cloying) to me. Dior Homme begat several flankers: Dior Homme Cologne, Dior Homme Intense and now, Dior Homme Sport. These Dior Homme fragrances share the same bottle style but have different scent personalities. I can’t comment on Dior Homme Cologne or Dior Homme Intense since I’ve never come across these fragrances in any U.S. shop I’ve visited. (The two fragrances are not featured on the U.S. section of the Dior website; Europeans — enjoy! And let me know what you think of Dior Homme Cologne and Dior Homme Intense.)

Dior Homme Sport will get a worldwide launch and with its release, perfumer François Demachy “was aiming for a simple structure composed around ginger“. I feel he succeeded on both counts…

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Kenzo Power: “A Flower for Men” ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 4 September 2008 41 Comments

Water Lily

Here they come: a slew of late summer and early fall men’s mainstream and designer fragrance launches. I have weeks’ worth of reviewing ahead of me, and everyone who reads this blog regularly knows the chances are slim that one of these fragrances — designed to appeal to a wide audience, everyone from collegiate Lotharios to middle-aged chiropractors — will strike a new chord (or accord) and please me (let alone thrill me). Kenzo Power was the first to arrive at my doorstep and if any of you watched the Olympics, you know “performing” first has its pitfalls — the first performer does not want to be average, he wants to astound and dominate the field.

Kenzo Power, “A Flower for Men,” was created by perfumer Olivier Polge and is described in Kenzo’s PR materials as “an imaginary flower in the heart of a woody amber-y fragrance”. Kenzo Power contains bergamot, coriander, cardamom, an abstract floral note (created using jasmine, rose and freesia), tolu balsam, cedar wood and labdanum.

I put on cologne first thing in the morning before getting dressed, so I never spray fragrances directly onto my clothes; however, when I first wore Kenzo Power, I applied it mid-day, while fully dressed, and the perfume got on my collar and sleeves…

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Guerlain Jicky ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 26 August 2008 94 Comments

Old Piano

Guerlain is so straight — and obsessed with LOVE — that I often feel I’m reading snippets from a paperback romance novel as I peruse the Guerlain website. Chamade is ‘a surrender to love'. Chant d'Arômes is ‘the most exquisite love token a woman can receive’. Mitsouko was inspired by ‘an impossible passion’. Nahéma represents ‘the duality of woman’…a ‘daughter of fire’. Vol de Nuit? It’s dedicated to a tragic love story (written by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry) and ‘to women who know how to live with danger’. Even Guerlain men’s colognes are given romantic touches and a female component: Mouchoir de Monsieur conjures a world where men offered ‘a delicately perfumed handkerchief to the woman one loved’. The hokiest Guerlain advertising line concerns L’Instant de Guerlain pour homme: ‘It’s her… He knows it… This is it!’

I don’t think a perfume can ignite passion or love between people, so you’ll find me rolling my eyes or laughing as I read Guerlain perfume ad copy, and Guerlain Jicky’s ‘creation story’ is no exception. Supposedly, Aimé Guerlain, while studying in England as a young man, fell in love with a British girl who he nicknamed “Jicky.” Aimé’s and Jicky’s love was unrequited and Aimé returned to Paris alone and, decades later, created Jicky, the perfume, in honor of his lost love. Another story has Aimé naming the perfume after his favorite nephew, Jacques (“Jicky”) Guerlain — the boy who grew up to create Mitsouko, L’Heure Bleue and Shalimar…

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