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Browsing by author: Kevin

Chanel Egoiste & Platinum Egoiste ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 8 January 2009 98 Comments

Chanel Egoiste & Egoiste Platinum colognes for men

Chanel’s Bois Noir fragrance was created (circa 1986-87) because Chanel’s chairman of the board Alain Wertheimer “wanted something new to wear.”* Wertheimer’s marketing approach to Bois Noir was novel: Bois Noir was not sold in department stores (it was only available in Chanel boutiques); there were no promotions (such as “gift-with-purchase” offers; Wertheimer hated those); and he didn’t really care if Bois Noir was a money-maker for his company. Wertheimer spoke frankly in a 1987 interview and said there were few unusual fragrances like Bois Noir because — “People want success too quickly. From a fragrance point of view, people like what their memory tells them is good. Memory tells you it’s good if it relates to something else you like. When a fragrance is completely different, they’re lost.”*

By April of 1990, things had changed — Bois Noir’s name for one. Amidst a flashy (and expensive) print and film ad campaign — the largest ever for a Chanel men’s fragrance — Bois Noir (no doubt with some tweaking of its formula) became Égoïste and was widely launched: in department stores no less! In its advertisements, which included the now-famous Jean-Paul Goude TV commercial, Chanel didn’t use images of men…

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Zirh Warrior Collection Julius Caesar shower gel review

Posted by Kevin on 30 December 2008 28 Comments

Zirh Warrior Shower GelShower gels named after famous warriors? Well…okay, but why can’t we use another type of person to promote products, a type that didn’t thrive on warfare, a type that doesn’t make me feel so “adolescent” as I buy a WARRIOR shower gel? I’d even risk appearing pretentious over appearing adolescent, so maybe I’ll develop a Poet Series of scented products myself: Haiku (Bashō) bath gel fragranced with pine needles, lotus, green tea leaf, kyara wood, smoke and bamboo, or a Leaves of Grass candle (Whitman) with sap, lilac, birch, cumin and musk. What about a fragrance honoring a poetess: Marianne Moore; she liked apricots and baseball, so osmanthus and ‘baseball glove leather’ would do the trick for Tricorne Eau de Parfum.

As I dismount my high horse, I admit I like the Zirh bath line for men. Though the Zirh Warrior advertising and online features (one feature at zirhwarrior helps you find out which warrior in the series matches your personality) seem geared towards very young men — we’re nearing Axe territory here — the gels are good quality…

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Cire Trudon Mademoiselle de La Valliere candle ~ home fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 23 December 2008 23 Comments

On May 14, 1664, during the famous seven-day party called Les Plaisirs de l’Ile Enchantée that celebrated the inauguration of Louis XIV’s grand Versailles building project, the “scents of ambergris, rosewater and jasmine melded with the acrid fumes of gunpowder as fireworks swooped great arabesques of intertwining ‘Ls’ across the sky for Louise and her lover, King Louis XIV of France.”* Louise was Louise de La Vallière (1644-1710), the provincial, blond and blue-eyed, rather “simple” 20-year-old mistress of Louis XIV — and the inspiration for Cire Trudon’s Mademoiselle de La Vallière candle. Louise became Louis’ mistress in 1661, and she was eventually given the titles of Duchesse de Vaujours and maîtresse en titre; she bore the king four children.

The Cire Trudon candle works was founded in Paris in 1643 (just a year before the Versailles fête) and provided candles to the court of Louis XIV (and still provides candles — and candle-making expertise — to churches like the Église Saint-Roch in Paris and companies such as Hermès, Cartier, Dior, and Guerlain).

The creative force behind Cire Trudon’s perfumed candles is Ramdane Touhami who says, “Cire Trudon does not make perfumes, but creates smells”. It’s rare that I come across an entire line of perfumes, soaps, or candles and think: “I want EVERYTHING!” but that’s how I felt when I smelled the Cire Trudon line of candles at Barneys New York…

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Penhaligon’s Hammam Bouquet & Elixir ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 18 December 2008 35 Comments

Penhaligon’s Hammam Bouquet

Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet

There are two perfumes for men that I’ve been forced to defend for almost 20 years. Friends, and strangers, to my face, have called these two fragrances “dandyish” “old fashioned” “of another time” and (for me, the worst) “grandfatherly.” There’s nothing wrong with grandfathers; my maternal grandfather was a sweetie who spent his leisure time reading and collecting stamps; he ran a small, country general store, geared more towards small talk and checkers than merchandise, and he smelled of vanilla, pipe tobacco and beagles. What bothers me about the “grandfatherly” adjective when it comes to describing perfume is this: “grandfatherly” implies a scent is passé. What are the two perfumes I’m always ready to defend? Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur and today’s review subject, Penhaligon’s Hammam Bouquet…

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L’Artisan Parfumeur Mure et Musc ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 11 December 2008 37 Comments

L'Artisan Mure et Musc limited edition bottle

I bought my first bottle of L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc in 1990, twelve years after its debut. It’s been ten years since my last bottle of Mûre et Musc and, as luck would have it, a friend has a bottle of Mûre et Musc from 1988 — a high school graduation gift — and she let me wear the ‘vintage’ perfume; the fragrance is just as I remember it: a deep, rich smell of berries (like the scent of fresh, ripe berries cooking in sugar syrup with a whole vanilla bean and lemon rind tossed in for good measure) coupled with a lively and almost “resinous” musk. The mood of 1988 Mûre et Musc is happy, summery (and unisex).

Mûre et Musc Eau de Toilette (current version)

I did a double-sniff when I recently sampled a brand-new bottle of Mûre et Musc Eau de Toilette…

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