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Browsing by author: Kevin

Hermes Equipage ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 5 February 2009 32 Comments

Hermes Equipage

I was an Equipage fiend. When I smelled Equipage for the first time in Los Angeles in 1993, I became hooked on the perfume in seconds and, for weeks, took the bottle with me everywhere I went…spraying, spraying, spraying all through the day. My best friend, a perfume fanatic herself, asked me on one memorable occasion to “STOP!” applying, or should I say RE-applying, Equipage. My friend and I were going to dinner and she made a quick stop at a dry cleaner’s to pick up a dress; when she returned to the car, the Equipage fumes were so strong she began to cough. She smelled Equipage in her car for days afterwards (but went on to buy Equipage aftershave for her father at Christmas).

I depleted my last bottle of Equipage around 1996 and I decided to take a “break” from the fragrance so I wouldn’t tire of it. I never got around to buying Equipage again. Now, I am about to smell it for the first time in 13 years. Here goes — (pssssst!) — AAAAAAHHHHHHHHH! I’m in heaven! Balmy, relaxed, warm and addictive, Equipage is as I remember it — and I want to use every drop of my Equipage sample immediately.

Equipage was created for Hermès by perfumer Guy Robert and it debuted in 1970…

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Chanel Bois Noir ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 3 February 2009 56 Comments

Chanel logo on tree bark

While reviewing Chanel Égoïste, I became obsessed with smelling its progenitor: Bois Noir. After reading my Égoïste review, two Now Smell This readers offered to send me samples of Bois Noir from their rare and precious bottles of the fragrance, and I accepted (both men had bought their bottles of Bois Noir at Chanel in Paris). I also purchased a small sample of Bois Noir from a trusted online vendor in case any of the samples had dramatically changed over the 22 years since they were bottled.

Bois Noir had a discreet launch in 1987…

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Ed Hardy Man and Ed Hardy Love & Luck Man ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Kevin on 28 January 2009 24 Comments

Ed Hardy Man and Ed Hardy Love & Luck Man colognes

Around the time Ed Hardy Man was released, I told friends how much I loved Ed Hardy designs, and that I intended to buy a piece of Ed Hardy jewelry. I noted the shocked looks on my friends’ faces, their barely suppressed laughter, and I thought: “Wimps! I think the designs are interesting!” It took about a month, and a trip to Nordstrom, to realize my mistake. I had confused ED Hardy designs:

Ed Hardy products

with JOHN Hardy designs…

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Humiecki & Graef Eau Radieuse ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 22 January 2009 18 Comments

Humiecki & Graef Eau Radieuse

Humiecki & Graef advertises Eau Radieuse as a “futuristic remake of an Eau de Cologne” that will transport us (mentally, I assume) to “a wondrous place on an unknown planet”. I don’t know what’s futuristic or otherworldly about green banana, mandarin peel, lemon, mint, rhubarb, and bamboo sap (all have been Earth-bound for millennia) but the aromas of banana, rhubarb and bamboo should provide an unusual “kick” when incorporated into the venerable Eau de Cologne formula.

Humiecki & Graef was founded by Sebastian Fischenich and Tobias Mueksch, and the company is based in Cologne (Köln), Germany. Fischenich and Mueksch named the company after their maternal grandmothers (using their favorite grandmothers’ maiden names). I can only imagine the family resentments — after all, the paternal grandmothers were omitted! Humiecki & Graef debuted four new fragrances in 2008 — all created by perfumer Christophe Laudamiel: Geste, Eau Radieuse, Multiple Rouge and Askew. (A fifth scent, Skarb, was originally launched in 2007.)

Eau Radieuse starts off with the scent of fresh citrus peel and a vibrant, tart-green aroma that does remind me of unripe bananas…

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Nasomatto China White ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 15 January 2009 64 Comments

PoppyNasomatto China White perfume

Can one compare heroin addiction to perfume addiction? Recently, a quote from the book Opium: A History struck me: “heroin is…an escape to tranquility, a liberation from anxiety and stress…a way out of the drudgery of life.”* Some days I feel that way about my colognes, and a perfume habit, like a drug habit, can deplete my bank account, but at least perfume won’t kill me. (Please, no comments on the chemicals contained in perfumes…those I ignore.)

In 1874, pharmacist C.R. Alder Wright of Saint Mary’s Hospital, London, was experimenting to find a non-addictive replacement for the pain-killer supreme — morphine; Wright boiled morphine with acetic anhydride and created a new substance — diacetylmorphine. Twenty-four years later, the German chemist Heinrich Dreser of Bayer Laboratories (the “birthplace” of aspirin) in Elberfeld, Germany, used diacetylmorphine in a pain killer he named “Heroin” — from the German word heroisch (meaning “mighty, heroic”).* Bayer marketed Heroin as a remedy for tuberculosis, laryngitis, coughs and, most ironically, as a “possible cure for morphine addiction”.**

Heroin was celebrated as a wonder drug — five to eight times more powerful than morphine…

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