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Browsing by author: Jessica

Givenchy Hot Couture ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 1 July 2011 26 Comments

Givenchy Hot Couture advert

Hot Couture has hovered at the edge of my fragrance consciousness for years, but I never actually tried it until this week, when I was feeling particularly jaded at Sephora and I wanted to smell something, anything that wasn’t a summer limited edition. And now that I think about it, I’m intrigued by this fragrance: Hot Couture has been holding its place in the Givenchy section of perfume counters since it was released in 2000, yet it’s such a “neither/nor” fragrance for the venerable brand. It’s neither Audrey Hepburn nor Liv Tyler, neither the classic L’Interdit nor the blandly trendy Very Irresistible and all its flankers. Nor is it one of Givenchy’s coming-on-strong fragrances of the 1990s, like Amarige or Organza. What is it?

In Givenchy’s official (and generally meaningless) description, “Hot Couture is a creation that aims to complement the woman’s body, combining sensuality and glamour with refinement and elegance. Very fashionable, the Hot Couture woman is both refined and original, slightly provocative and so uniquely charismatic.” Hot Couture is “a voluptuous fragrance with spicy and woody notes (raspberry nectar, magnolia, amber-vetiver),” and it was developed by perfumers Alberto Morillas and Jacques Cavallier. Its title is a silly pun on “haute couture,” and the bottle’s logo looks like a dressmaker’s label with pinked edges. (The older bottle design bore an image resembling a vintage fashion sketch.)

Hot Couture starts off with a flashy burst of raspberry and vanilla…

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Crazylibellule and The Poppies 26 Juin: Ile d’Yeu ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 26 June 2011 32 Comments

Crazylibellule and The Poppies 26 Juin: Ile d'YeuCrazylibellule and The Poppies 26 Juin: Ile d'YeuCrazylibellule and The Poppies 26 Juin: Ile d'Yeu

Crazylibellule and The Poppies launched 26 Juin (Ile d’Yeu) in 2009, as the first fragrance in a promised series called “Tous les matins du monde.” Although Crazylibellule is known primarily for its solid perfume “Crazysticks,” 26 Juin was released in a liquid cologne format as well as a solid stick. Its fragrance notes include orange, peach, plum, rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, orange blossom, cardamom, black pepper, precious wood, vanilla and musk.

Ile d’Yeu is an island off the west coast of France; I’ve never been there, but I can imagine that it must be a lovely place to spend a mid-summer day. 26 Juin has the refreshing, effervescent feeling of a traditional Eau de Cologne, although its composition is described as a “fruity hesperidic floral.” There’s quite a bit of citrus in the top notes, including something lemony. The rest of the fragrance gives off a freshly-sliced peach note, the suggestion of a few green leaves, and a very cheerful plum-and-rose heart that would appeal to fans of Annick Goutal Quel Amour!. 26 Juin (Ile d’Yeu) is fizzy and juicy, sweet and tart, like a summer cocktail or a bite of candied fruit…

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Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane ~ perfume review

Posted by Jessica on 19 June 2011 34 Comments

Sweet osmanthus

Nuit de Cellophane was released by Serge Lutens in early 2009 as part of the brand’s export collection. The press release for this fragrance includes a typically Lutensian snippet of prose-poetry and dialogue, but the sample-vial card offers a more concise description: “The night embodied in scent and sight. Chinese osmanthus.” Nuit de Cellophane’s list of notes includes jasmine, osmanthus, carnation, lily, almond, honey, sandalwood, and musk.

I hope my “perfumista” credentials won’t be revoked when I reveal that I’m not a Serge Lutens fanatic. I admire the line’s artistic philosophy and many of its fragrances (and I did own the original Shiseido Féminité du Bois years ago), but although I can appreciate the scents in an abstract sense, I somehow don’t enjoy wearing most of them. Even Sa Majesté la Rose, the rose soliflore of the line, which would seem to be a good fit for my tastes, rubs me the wrong way. (Is it the geranium that bothers my nose? the honey? I’ve never been able to figure it out.) Long story short, I respect Serge Lutens from a distance, but the house’s aesthetic just doesn’t fit me. On the other hand, Nuit de Cellophane sounded like the type of sweet floral that usually appeals to me, and if it turned out to be a non-Serge-like scent, as many diehard Lutensians lamented, then I would probably like it…

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Dirty by Gorilla Perfume at Lush ~ fragrance and scented body product review

Posted by Jessica on 12 June 2011 8 Comments

Lush Dirty range

I first sniffed the Dirty product line at the New York launch of Gorilla Perfume at Lush last year, and I’ve been looking forward to its release in the United States. Dirty has finally reached our shores, in all its iterations, and it feels just right for summer. According to Gorilla Perfume‘s promotional materials, “Dirty is an invigorating, cathartic breath of fresh air that stirs up something primal.” Its notes include spearmint, thyme, tarragon, lavender, sandalwood, and oakmoss (but no dirt!).

Dirty is available in as a traditional liquid perfume and as a solid fragrance stick; it’s a fresh fragrance that leans slightly towards the masculine end of the spectrum, but it will probably find quite a few female fans who enjoy wearing grassy, minty, or leafy scents. For the first hour or so, Dirty reminds me of an herb garden giving off the aromas of an assortment of plants: the thyme and the tarragon are there, and the mint is especially noticeable. Dirty gradually evolves into a salty sea breeze and an airy musk base with a very sheer sandalwood note. It has good staying power for a “fresh” fragrance, particularly one that includes so many natural ingredients.

The complete Dirty line takes a new approach to “layering”: each product is scented with a different element of the Dirty composition, so that they can be worn together to recreate the total fragrance…

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Etat Libre d’Orange Archives 69 ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 3 June 2011 32 Comments

Etat Libre d'Orange Paris boutique

Archives 69 takes its name from the address of the Etat Libre d’Orange flagship boutique, located at 69 Rue des Archives in Paris. Since this is Etat Libre d’Orange, you may be guessing that the name has a double meaning, a specifically sexual one, and you are correct; an entry on the Etat Libre d’Orange blog, complete with alternate label art for Archives 69, makes that point clear. Its text explains, “This is a perfume designed to free the senses, to open the heart to all the possibilities. It is an invitation to pleasure, an ode to seduction. It comes without restrictions, rules or regulations. It is yours to do with as you wish. This is the scent of sensual liberation.”

The composition of Archives 69, developed by perfumer Christine Nagel, includes notes of tangerine, pink berries CO2, pepper leaf, orchid & prune JE, incense, camphor, benzoin, patchouli, and musk. Its concept was partially inspired by the short story “Drencula” by French writer Boris Vian, a tale of a young man’s encounter with a hermaphroditic vampire, from Vian’s collection Écrits Pornographiques. Archives 69 was given the tagline “The Illusion of Sex” in preview materials, and its press release (subtitled “The End of Innocence”) includes a lengthy meditation on a nameless female character who embodies many dualities: the sacred and the profane, heaven and hell, pleasure and pain, etc. So, how do this theme and this prose translate into scent?

Archives 69 does pair some opposing notes…

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