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Browsing by author: Jessica

MCMC Fragrances Love & Phoenix ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 21 August 2011 24 Comments

MCMC Fragrances Love & Phoenix

I love to watch other people shopping for perfume. I can’t usually do it for more than a minute or so without feeling invasive, but I’m always interested in the comments I overhear at fragrance counters. The main problem (aside from the risk that the person will suddenly realize I’m listening) is that I have to refrain from making suggestions. This is difficult, especially when a sales associate is relentlessly pushing the latest release rather than finding out what the person really wants, or worse yet, when the potential customer is standing alone and looking around anxiously for guidance.

Sometimes I wish I could recommend a fragrance line that’s not sitting right there on the shelves at Sephora or the department stores at my local mall. There seem to be plenty of women who have a favorite perfume and are looking for something along the same lines — something fruity and tart, for example, or a soft floral blend with some vanilla in it. But they also want a slightly more sophisticated or less commonplace alternative, and they’re not finding it at their usual retail destinations. I thought of those women when I smelled the two latest releases from the indie brand MCMC Fragrances. MCMC’s perfumes are directed towards a relatively small audience, but they’d probably also be appreciated by the desperately-seeking-something shoppers that I’ve watched from the corner of my eye…

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By Kilian Sweet Redemption (The End) ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 13 August 2011 22 Comments

BaudelaireBy Kilian Sweet RedemptionJim Morrison

Perfumes cling closely to your flesh
As incense to a censer; bright
And dusky nymph, you are all Night,
Secret and passionate and fresh!

— Charles Baudelaire (trans. Jacques LeClercq)

This is the end / beautiful friend

— Jim Morrison

I’m sorry, but I couldn’t stop myself from using those images and quotations. What else can one do, when faced with promotional copy stating that a fragrance is “inspired on one hand by Baudelaire’s homage to sweet and deep fragrances, yet on the other hand by the dark and mysterious poetry of Jim Morrison as he seemingly forebode his own demise”? The fragrance in question is Sweet Redemption (The End), the tenth and final release in By Kilian’s L’Oeuvre Noire series. It was developed by perfumer Calice Becker and the notes for this sweet powdery woods fragrance include orange blossom, vanilla, myrrh, opopanax, benzoin and incense.

Overwrought prose aside, what do we have here? Sweet Redemption opens with a top note of orange blossom cocooned in spun sugar. It’s feminine and quite pretty, and I thought for a moment that this would turn out to be one of the simpler By Kilian compositions…

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Alvarez Gomez Agua de Colonia Concentrada ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 4 August 2011 18 Comments

Alvarez Gomez boutiqueAlvarez Gomez Agua de Colonia Concentrada

Alvarez Gomez is a Madrid-based, family-owned business that dates back to 1899, and Agua de Colonia Concentrada is its signature product. This traditional cologne is reportedly an easy item to find in shops throughout Spain, but it was virtually unknown in the United States until MiN New York began importing the Alvarez Gomez line last year. According to the company, Agua de Colonia Concentrada is “a very fresh, clean and natural-smelling cologne enhanced with carefully chosen essences of Mediterranean plants, flowers and fruit”; its official notes are Spanish lavender, lemon, geranium, eucalyptus, rosemary, thyme, English lavender and bergamot.

Agua de Colonia Concentrada was created in 1912, and Alvarez Gomez claims that its formula remains unchanged. I don’t know whether that’s entirely possible, but in any case, this fragrance does smell timeless, as a classic cologne should. It’s a strongly citrus-based interpretation of Eau de Cologne, with a tart, bright lemon note that evokes the peel as well as the pulp of the fruit. The lemon is almost brilliant for the first few minutes on skin; when you smell it, you’ll understand why Alvarez Gomez has chosen such a vibrant yellow for its packaging…

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Roxana Illuminated Perfume Aurora and To Bee ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 31 July 2011 15 Comments

Roxana To Bee

Summer is my favorite time to wear natural perfumes. This is the season when everything is in bloom, so it feels especially appropriate to wear botanical essences; also, the warm weather and warmer skin seem to make the perfumes themselves “flower.” In any case, I’ve spent the past week rotating between several fragrances from indie line Roxana Illuminated Perfume, and the two I’m going to review here are Aurora, an early Illuminated Perfume (first offered in 2006) that keeps drawing me back, and To Bee, the latest release.

Aurora is a floriental with a mood of “vivid light polarized and magnetized.” Its notes include mandarin, jasmine, rose, spice, and amber; like all Illuminated Perfume creations, it is formulated with “plant essential oils, absolutes, and CO2 extracts with tinctured plant material in a base of pure organic grape and grain alcohol.” Aurora’s opening is a nicely blended citrus-spice accord with a touch of clove, followed by some lush ylang ylang (as well as the jasmine). The base is a woodsy-spice blend with a slightly powdery feel and perhaps just a hint of tonka or vanilla. As promised by Illuminated Perfume, Aurora does give off a carnation-like effect by its dry down…

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Poetry Sand, Creme, and Vellum ~ scented body products

Posted by Jessica on 24 July 2011 14 Comments

Poetry Sand, Creme, and Vellum

As I write this post, the temperature in New York City is 102 degrees. In weather like this, we’ll all be bathing more often than usual, so we might as well make the best of it and try out some new body products, right? I’ve been taking advantage of these two-shower days to test a few things from Poetry, a small company that encourages the “Intimate Ritual” of bathing.

Poetry’s bath-and-body line is available in two fragrance blends; I’ve been using samples of products scented with Verse 1, “a versatile citrus fragrance with notes of sandalwood and jasmine.” (The other fragrance is Verse 2, “a potent scent of mint and balsam needle with a hint of grapefruit.”) Verse 1 is strongly citrus, with intense, sunny notes of bergamot and lemon and a smooth woodsy base that suggests cedar as well as sandalwood. I don’t really notice the jasmine, but that’s fine, because the citrus-wood pairing has a cleansing, almost purifying effect on my mind as well as my body. It makes me feel more alert, and purged of all heat-related discomfort, at least for a little while…

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