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Browsing by author: Jessica

Diptyque Eau Rose ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 20 January 2012 34 Comments

Diptyque Eau Rose large bottle

Diptyque was one of the first “niche” fragrance houses to edge its way into my consciousness, and I still remember the day I purchased my first bottle of L’Ombre dans L’Eau at a boutique in Philadelphia. (That was eight years ago, and I still wear L’Ombre every summer.) More recently, I wished aloud that Diptyque would create a rose-centered fragrance, and my request has been noted by the fragrance gods and goddesses: Diptyque’s newest release is Eau Rose, “a totally new fragrance that pays tribute to the queen of flowers, the rose,” with notes of bergamot, blackcurrant, lychee, hedione, geranium, Turkish rose, cedar, musk, and honey.

I must say that Eau Rose’s label and box, with their pink-accented illustrations of trellis-climbing roses, are among the prettiest designs I’ve seen in a long time. They also raised my expectations before I had even smelled the fragrance itself. So, what did I think? According to the description on the Diptyque website, Eau Rose is composed to “to celebrate the multiple aromas of the flower in its natural state, as it blossoms over time.” That works for me. Eau Rose begins on a fresh-flower note, with the citrus and black currant giving it a certain brightness while never translating as an obviously “fruity-floral” blend…

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Sarah Horowitz Coconut Milk ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 13 January 2012 32 Comments

coconutSarah Horowitz Coconut Milk

I’m a city-loving, sun-averse individual who doesn’t even own a bathing suit, and I can’t remember my last visit to a beach. (Oh, wait, there was that weekend in Montauk. In April 2006.) Despite, or perhaps for, this very reason, I find myself testing beach-themed and tropics-themed perfumes more often than you might expect. The latest such fragrance to cross my desk was a sample of Sarah Horowitz Coconut Milk, a recent release from this California-based independent perfumer.

Coconut Milk, the latest addition to Sarah Horowitz’s “Perfect” line, includes top notes of coconut and almond, heart notes of orange blossom and gardenia, and base notes of tonka bean, vanilla, and Egyptian musk. It’s a fragrance that accomplishes exactly what it sets out to do. Its coconut accord is milky with a hint of green, and it doesn’t remind me at all of the suntan lotions of my youth, thank goodness. The coconut, which lasts throughout the fragrance’s development on skin, is followed by just a hint of creamy gardenia…

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Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Cheri Par Camille ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 6 January 2012 60 Comments

Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Chéri Par Camille

One of the long-running best-sellers in the Annick Goutal line is Petite Chérie (1998), a girlish fruity-floral that Annick Goutal dedicated to her daughter Camille. Camille has now reciprocated by devoting a fragrance to her mother’s memory: it is a spicy floral chypre titled Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille and its composition includes Indonesian patchouli, iris, violet, plum, and heliotropin.

Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille is partially inspired by a vintage solid perfume from Annick Goutal’s fragrance collection (originally a gift from the author Colette!); working with the perfumer Isabelle Doyen, Camille Goutal was also “drawn back to her childhood memories of Hollywood’s wartime movies. Tempting satin. Delicate lace. Actresses and their gloved hands and ruby lips. And a memory of her mother dressing for an evening out…” For me, Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille succeeds in this evocation. It’s old-fashioned, in a full-bodied, self-possessed way, and it really is most appropriate for evening wear (although I normally avoid that kind of fragrance-wearing instruction).

When I sniff Mon Parfum Chéri from the sample vial, I notice plenty of patchouli…

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Caron Farnesiana ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 29 December 2011 28 Comments

Caron Farnesiana advertCaron urn

Farnesiana was one of the first modern fragrances inspired by the mimosa flower, that notoriously difficult-to-replicate fluffy yellow bloom. According to Jean-Marie Martin-Hattemberg’s volume on Caron, Farnesiana was created by perfumer Michel Morsetti in 1947; its composition includes notes of mimosa, black currant, bergamot, jasmine, violet, lily of the valley, lilac, vanilla, sandalwood, opopanax, hay, and musk (although the Caron website currently only lists mimosa, sandalwood, and hay). The name “Farnesiana” refers to acacia farnesiana, the botanical name for a particular variety of mimosa; it is also, Caron suggests, evocative of Rome’s grand Farnese Palace.

That juxtaposition of a simple flower and a Renaissance palazzo seems appropriate to me, since I’ve always considered Farnesiana a sophisticated comfort scent, an unusual floral-gourmand (or “fleurmand,” as I like to call this perfume sub-genre). To my nose, Farnesiana begins with a powdery, pollen-like mimosa note and with accords of sun-warmed hay and grass. Oddly enough, this green-tinged phase reminds me of certain fragrances from Santa Maria Novella, like Ginestra (Broom) or Fieno (Hay), that evoke meadow-like landscapes. Farnesiana’s heart opens up to reveal the sweetly resinous opoponax…

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Nuance Salma Hayek Walnut Body Scrub and Rosehip Moisturizing Body Lotion ~ scented body products

Posted by Jessica on 18 December 2011 31 Comments

Nuance Salma Hayek Walnut Body ScrubSalma HayekNuance Salma Hayek Rosehip Moisturizing Body Lotion

Considering the wave of celebrity perfumes that has submerged us over the past decade, it’s interesting that so few famous names have appeared on the labels of fragranced body products. The only examples that come to my mind are Jo Wood Organics, a high-priced niche line created by the ex-wife of a Rolling Stone, and Lisa Hoffman Beauty, a body/fragrance spa brand founded by Dustin Hoffman’s wife, but neither of these women is exactly a household name.

Now, however, we have Nuance, a full collection of cosmetics, skincare, haircare, and body products launched by actress Salma Hayek. Hayek herself is probably no stranger to fancy fragrances and indulgent self-care products, since she’s married to François-Henri Pinault, the CEO of a multinational luxury goods business. Yet her new Nuance brand is sold at CVS drugstores; as Hayek says in one of her promotional videos for the line, “I wanted to make sure that every woman could afford it.” (She also mentions the inspiration of her grandmother, who concocted homemade beauty products in her kitchen, and the long history of natural ingredients in traditional Mexican remedies.)

I picked up two Nuance body products at CVS on a whim…

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