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Browsing by author: Jessica

Amouage Beloved ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 2 May 2012 30 Comments

Bergdorf GoodmanHelen Lee Worthing for US Vogue December 1919

The latest release from luxury fragrance house Amouage is Beloved, a tribute to the “elegance and complexity of the modern woman” (in general) and the classic sophistication of women who shop at Bergdorf Goodman in New York (in particular). Beloved was developed for Amouage by perfumer Bernard Ellena and includes top notes of jasmine, purple rose, lavender, clary sage, clove bud, chamomile, and cardamom; heart notes of ylang-ylang, violet, everlasting [immortelle], cistus, benzoin, olibanum, and patchouli; and base notes of cedarwood, sandalwood, castoreum, civet, leather, musk, vanilla, maltol, and amber.

Although I always enjoy shopping for fragrance and cosmetics at Bergdorf Goodman, I’m probably not the quintessential “Bergdorf woman,” however you may picture her. On the other hand, I do have a longstanding personal and sentimental connection to the place: my great-grandfather and great-aunt both worked at Bergdorf Goodman, as a tailor and couture seamstress, respectively. My love for spending time in New York department stores is apparently a product of nature as well as nurture. Can I, as a not-so-glamorous customer at Bergdorf and a mostly-modern woman, enjoy Beloved? I certainly can…

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Annick Goutal La Violette ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 27 April 2012 29 Comments

viola odorataAnnick Goutal La Violette

While Robin has been trying and reviewing Nuit Etoilée, the newest fragrance release from Annick Goutal, I’ve been revisiting Goutal’s La Violette this week. La Violette was developed by perfumer Isabelle Doyen and was originally released in 2001. It has come and gone from the Goutal catalogue over the past few years, but it was recently re-released as part of the company’s quartet of soliflore fragrances, alongside Le Mimosa, Le Muguet and Rose Splendide.

La Violette really does concentrate on the idea of the violet flower; even more, it suggests the crystallized sweetness of candied violets. Its opening is a pure violet note with an aldehydic clarity. The violet soon develops a sugary veil that lasts through the fragrance’s development, although there’s also a light green note and just a breath of spice in the heart to balance out the confectionery effect. La Violette never feels chilly or sharp; overall, it’s a friendly, almost flirty violet…

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Diptyque Ofresia ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 20 April 2012 31 Comments

Diptyque Ofresiafreesia blossom

Diptyque is having a busy spring. The company recently previewed a new look for its niche-classic line of Eau de Toilettes; meanwhile, it has introduced a new “language of flowers” theme for its floral products. The Diptyque website currently includes the “secrets, myths, and legends” behind twelve flowers featured in its personal fragrances and home fragrances; freesia, for example, is “a symbol of femininity and grace…often used during wedding ceremonies. When offered in a bouquet, it embodies the pureness of a new friendship and invites a strengthening of the bonds.”

Ofrésia, released in 1999, is Diptyque’s tribute to freesia. It features an “atypical accord of immaculate freesia heightened by black pepper.” (In its “Language of Flowers” discussion, Diptyque also informs us that “freesia does not yield fragrant molecules so the Nose must recreate its delicate, wholesome scent with accents of jasmine, bergamot and rosewood”; this may or not be a reference to Ofrésia’s composition.) The pepper note in Ofrésia is nose-ticklingly distinct; it gives a little zing to the fragrance’s central notes of green leaves and smooth while petals. In the early stages of the fragrance’s development, I’m also catching a spicy note with an almost cinnamon-like fuzziness…

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Beautannia Brideshead Soap & Body Lotion ~ scented body products

Posted by Jessica on 13 April 2012 20 Comments

Castle Howard

I recently stepped into the SpaceNK boutique in Manhattan’s SoHo neighborhood, just planning on browsing for a few minutes. Approaching the shelves, I spied some unfamiliar bath products; looking more closely, I let out a little shriek of delight. Toiletries named after my favorite novel, Brideshead Revisited? I could not resist. These luxury products come from a brand called Beautannia, which turns out to be one of SpaceNK‘s house lines. Brideshead is billed as a “quintessential English floral” with notes of “wintersweet, honeysuckle and wild bluebell.”

If I had imagined a fragrance for Brideshead, the grand country estate at the heart of Evelyn Waugh’s novel, during all my repeated readings (not to mention numerous viewings of the highly faithful television adaptation), what would it be? For the earlier sections of the narrative, I’d scent Charles and Sebastian’s friendship with a blend of white wine, strawberries, ivy, and wisps of cigarette smoke. In a late chapter of the novel, Waugh himself evoked the smell of his fictional setting…

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Farmacia SS. Annunziata Perla and Lush 25:43 ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 6 April 2012 30 Comments

Farmacia SS. Annunziata PerlaLush 25:43

Around the time I became a regular browser on the fragrance board at Makeup Alley, nearly a decade ago, there was plenty of discussion about gourmand fragrances. One board favorite, the sort of thing you only heard about on Makeup Alley or other fragrance chat sites in those days, was La Perla Eclix, a musky-sweet blend of citrus and vanilla. I swapped for a sample of Eclix and enjoyed it, and whenever I spotted its metallic alien-eye bottle in a store, I’d give it a spritz. Eclix was discontinued sometime around 2007, however, and I gradually forgot about it.

I happened to try two new citrus-gourmand fragrances within the past month; neither of them is an Eclix-alike, but if you’ve been craving something along those general lemon-vanilla lines, you might want to try Perla from Farmacia SS. Annunziata or 25:43 from Lush’s Gorilla Perfumes. The former line is a bit of mystery to me. It seems to be associated with the church of Santissima Annunziata in Bologna, or rather with the pharmacy originally affiliated with the church, which now exists as a separate business and storefront. (I’m piecing this together on my own, so I hope I’m correct; and I’m reminded of Santa Maria Novella, of course.)

Perla includes notes of lemon, osmanthus, amber and vanilla. It begins like a lemon drop, slightly sour but dusted with sugar…

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