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Browsing by author: Jessica

Coming to My Senses ~ Q & A with Alyssa Harad

Posted by Jessica on 20 July 2012 45 Comments

Coming to My Senses by Alyssa HaradAlyssa Harad

As we’ve announced, and as you very well may have heard elsewhere, Alyssa Harad has just published a memoir titled Coming to My Senses: A Story of Perfume, Pleasure, and an Unlikely Bride (and if you missed it, see the excerpt we posted yesterday). It’s a highly readable and moving account of the year in which Alyssa married her longtime beau and developed an obsessive interest in perfume, and a meditation on the ways that those two turning points brought her to think differently about her own identity as a woman and a writer.

Since I consider Alyssa a friend and we all know her as a Now Smell This contributor, I’ll be having an e-mail “question and answer” conversation with her rather than writing a traditional book review.

Alyssa will be checking in throughout the day, so if you have a question or comment of your own, please do share it.

Jessica: On a personal note, I completely empathized with the early chapters of your book, in which you recall your graduate education and the reasons that perfume would have been viewed with distrust as a “romantic distraction” in that world. I understand that experience all too well, having tried to suppress my love for fashion and perfume and cosmetics during my own long grad-school career! Do you think there’s some shared sensibility that accounts for all the academics-turned-scent-obsessives in the online fragrance-world, or is it just coincidence or the law of averages?

Alyssa: I’ve noticed there are not only a lot of former (and current) academics in the perfume blogosphere, but plenty of writers, librarians, curators, and scientists, too. The book polls on Now Smell This also suggest that perfumistas in general are big readers…

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Faberge Aphrodisia ~ vintage fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 13 July 2012 22 Comments

Faberge Aphrodisia 1960s advertFaberge Aphrodisia 1950s advert

Sometimes I try to ignore the existence of vintage fragrances on auction websites, and the raves they may receive on the perfume blogs, because what’s the point of falling for something that’s already discontinued or reformulated beyond recognition? And I’m usually pretty successful in this effort. Recently, however, I was intrigued by author M.J. Rose’s description of an unnamed men’s fragrance in her novel The Book of Lost Fragrances, and when I learned that Fabergé’s Aphrodisia (the men’s version) had been her inspiration for that scent, I wanted to know more. Thanks to a kind Now Smell This reader, I now own a bit of Aphrodisia (the women’s version), and I’m hooked.

According to my trusty copy of The H&R Book: Fragrances Guide, Feminine Notes, Fabergé Aphrodisia is a “fresh-mossy-aldehydic” chypre that includes top notes of bergamot, lemon, neroli and fruit; middle notes of rose, honey, ylang-ylang, carnation and jasmine; and base notes of oakmoss, vetiver, civet, ambrein and musk. Aphrodisia was released in 1938 and was available in various concentrations throughout its lifetime. I’ve been wearing a cologne version that seems to date from the 1960s…

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Tocca Giulietta ~ fragrance and scented body product review

Posted by Jessica on 8 July 2012 29 Comments

Tocca Giulietta Eau de Parfum

I’ve met more than a few women who wear Tocca fragrances, and they’re often thirty-something acquaintances who work in the arts, which makes sense to me. Tocca’s fragrances are available at Sephora, but also at quite a few quirky little boutiques. They’re generally light, feminine scents with sweet floral and fruit notes, they’re packaged in antique-looking bottles, and they have names that refer to romantic locales or famous women in history. Tocca isn’t a niche line, but it offers a semi-mainstream alternative to celebrity fragrances, teen-oriented scents and logo-encrusted “aspirational” products. They’re not necessarily distinctive fragrances, but they’re never embarrassing, either.

Giulietta, which was launched in 2009, claims to evoke “the love story of Italian director Federico Fellini and Giulietta Masina” in a composition that includes top notes of Bulgarian rose, ylang ylang, green apple, and pink tulips; middle notes of lily of the valley, iris pallida, vanilla orchid, lilac, and heliotrope; and bottom notes of cedarwood, musk, amber and sandalwood. In the Eau de Parfum, the green apple note is quite noticeable at the outset, but it gradually makes way for the fragrance’s heart of various white petals and very soft, clean woods. Giulietta left me with the impression of a dessert that involves whipped cream and a very mild fruit sorbet and a garnish of some edible flower. In fact, considering the lingering presence of the vanilla orchid note, I’d even classify Giulietta as an easy-to-wear “summer vanilla…”

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United Scents of America New Jersey, New York and Texas ~ perfume review

Posted by Jessica on 5 July 2012 51 Comments

United Scents of America New YorkUnited Scents of America New JerseyUnited Scents of America Texas

United Scents of America is a small company offering fragrances dedicated to the various United States of America. For its debut in 2011, United Scents rolled out an initial line of five fragrances: New York, New Jersey, California, Florida, and Texas. The company’s press release states, “Everyone comes from somewhere, has a sense of belonging and calls some place home. United Scents of America is meant to to evoke nostalgia for the individual United States of America.”

The idea of location-inspired fragrances is nothing new, but it still seems to have plenty of “mileage”: from classic evocations of the City of Light, like Yves Saint-Laurent Paris (and, even earlier, Midnight in Paris) to the recent airport-coded creations of The Scent of Departure, we’re offered opportunities to fantasize and to remember through travel-oriented fragrances. Even smaller houses like Bourbon French have focused on their scents of their hometowns (such as New Orleans). Of course, the tricky thing about this genre is that every person has his or her individual memories and expectations linked to a particular place.

Let’s start with New Jersey, where I was born, grew up, and have resided on and off for a significant percentage of my life…

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Caron L’Accord Code 119 ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 22 June 2012 22 Comments

Caron Accord 119 bottlesberries

L’Accord Code 119, released in the United States in January 2012, was created for Caron by in-house perfumer Richard Fraysse. Its “striking yet intimate” composition includes notes of blackcurrant bud, Egyptian jasmine, patchouli, blackberry, black pepper, vanilla, heliotrope, musk and amber. It’s one of several recent releases that seem intended to update Caron’s profile while maintaining continuity with the house’s heritage, which must be a difficult task for any century-old brand.

This perfume is promoted as “the House’s first fruity and floral fountain fragrance” and as “a bold yet deliciously sweet composition redolent of freshly-picked red summer berries with a rich, oriental woody base.” Let’s take that first quote first: surely Caron has offered fruit-and-flower blends before 2012? What about Acaciosa, with its pineapple note, or the citrus-topped Alpona? Well, it’s the first Caron fragrance to employ berry notes, that much is true; and I do agree with that latter description. I’d call L’Accord Code 119 (or just Accord 119, as the bottle is labeled) a fruity-wood fragrance rather than a fruity-floral…

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