• About
  • Login to comment
    • Bluesky
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Archives
Browsing by author: Jessica

Houbigant Orangers en Fleurs ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 24 August 2012 27 Comments

Houbigant Orangers en FleurHoubigant Orangers en Fleur

We tend to complain that many fragrance houses offer a surfeit of new releases, season after season, without any apparent concern for quality or aesthetic consistency. Houbigant is one house we can’t blame for taking that approach: although it certainly has a “heritage” that would turn newcomer niche lines green with envy, its complicated recent history has resulted in a pared-down catalogue of offerings, which is somehow refreshing these days.

I do remember Chantilly from my teen years, but it’s now owned by Dana Classic Fragrances (and probably doesn’t smell much like it used to in my Seventeen-reading era). And, just a few years ago, I had a co-worker who wore the venerable Quelques Fleurs (1912!) as her signature scent; I loved catching a whiff of it when she passed me in the corridor. On the other hand, I’ve cordially loathed Quelques Fleurs Royales since its release in 2004 — the last news I’d heard about Houbigant until this summer’s launch of Orangers en Fleurs….

Read the rest of this article »

Illuminum Tomato Leaf ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 17 August 2012 25 Comments

tomato leaftomato leaf

Like many people, I first took notice of British fragrance house Illuminum when Katherine Middleton chose to wear Illuminum’s White Gardenia Petals on the occasion of her wedding to Prince William. At that time, Illuminum’s fragrances weren’t even available in the United States; over the past year, however, the brand has been making gradual inroads into the American niche fragrance market. Illuminum offers a daunting range of personal fragrances and home fragrances; Tomato Leaf, from the “Haute Perfume” line, is one that has made an impression on me.

Illuminum says that “a vegetal freshness is central to this green and pleasing scent,” which includes top notes of carrot seed, osmanthus and tomato leaf; heart notes of dew drops, seaweed and water lily; and a base note of musk. (Freesia is also mentioned in a description of the fragrance.) However, after wearing it three or four times, I’d file Tomato Leaf under “misleading names” and “not at all what I expected.” It begins with a really unusual blend of mint, ripe peaches and moist green leaves, like a summer salad assembled from ingredients freshly picked in a garden or purchased that morning at a farmers market…

Read the rest of this article »

Lancome La Vie Est Belle ~ perfume review

Posted by Jessica on 10 August 2012 59 Comments

Julia Roberts for Lancôme La Vie Est Belle

Day to day, week to week, there are fragrance launches, and then there are fragrance launches. Lancôme‘s La Vie Est Belle is one of the major launches of pre-fall 2012, complete with big-name perfumers, Julia Roberts as its “ambassadress,” a gala celebration in the south of France, a soon-to-be-unveiled commercial directed by Tarsem Singh, and more. Lancôme is promoting La Vie Est Belle as its next “iconic” fragrance, hoping it will match Trésor in popularity and longevity as a pillar of the brand’s fragrance collection, and no expense or effort has been spared in this campaign.

The fragrance, whose name translates as “life is beautiful,” was developed by perfumers Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Anne Flipo. Its composition includes notes of Florentine Iris pallida, iris aldehyde, jasmine sambac, Tunisian orange blossom, Indonesian patchouli, and a “gourmand accord” of vanilla, tonka bean, praline, black currant and pear. According to Lancôme, La Vie Est Belle represents “a new era” and “the choice to live one’s life and fill it with beauty.” (You can find more information on the fragrance’s philosophy at the Lancôme website.)

I was immediately skeptical about Lancôme’s assertion that La Vie Est Belle is “the first ever iris gourmand”…

Read the rest of this article »

Kiehl’s Aromatic Blends collection ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 3 August 2012 17 Comments

Kiehl's Aromatic Blends collection

Last month, Kiehl’s launched a new family of products called Aromatic Blends, “Pure Scents from Around the World.” I was initially uninterested in trying them, since I have bad memories of Molton Brown’s similarly travel-themed “Navigations Through Scent” line (harsh compositions, ugly bottles and prices even more ridiculous than their names). However, I do enjoy visiting the Kiehl’s counter once in a while, and once I’d sniffed the Aromatic Blends, I was ready to adjust my original reaction.

The four “blends” in this line are Nashi Blossom & Pink Grapefruit, Orange Flower & Lychee, Fig Leaf & Sage and Vanilla & Cedarwood. I’m not really sure how “naturally derived” or “sustainably sourced” they are, but I do think their simple, landscape-inspired arrangements suit the overall Kiehl’s aesthetic. They’re nicely made (with one possible exception), they’re simply and attractively packaged, and they’re reasonably priced — in other words, they do what they set out to do. Here are a few quick thoughts on each fragrance, from lightest to richest.

Nashi Blossom & Pink Grapefruit: Let’s get this one out of the way first…

Read the rest of this article »

Penhaligon’s Peoneve ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 2 August 2012 25 Comments

Penhaligon's PeoneveManet, Bouquet of Peonies

The English house of Penhaligon’s offers several floral fragrances for women, yet I’ve never really fallen for any of them. Bluebell is too astringent for my taste, Elisabethan Rose is pretty but fleeting, Violetta is weirdly herbaceous, and I’m just not a Lily of the Valley person. However, the press release for Peoneve caught my eye. This new launch is described as “an exquisite portrayal of an English garden in summer, bursting with lush green foliage and heady with the scent of blossoming flowers,” and was developed by perfumer Olivier Cresp, with notes of violet leaf, peony, Bulgarian rose, hedione, vetiver, musk and cashmere wood.

Although peony isn’t my absolute favorite floral note, I do like it, and I’ll usually give it a try when it appears in something like L’Occitane Paeonia (which is a bit dull) or Parfums de Nicolaï’s Rose Pivoine — or Estée Lauder’s new-classic Pleasures, of course. The main problem with interpretations of peony, for me, is that they tend to err on the side of watery-lemony freshness, when I’d prefer a little more pollen and petal in the mix. Peoneve seems to take the latter course…

Read the rest of this article »

« Newer articles
Older articles »

Advertisement

Search

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

6 January ~ damage poll

31 January ~ winter reading poll

Back to Top

Home
Archives
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Books

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2026 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.