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Browsing by author: Jessica

Olfactive Studio Still Life ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 29 December 2012 18 Comments

Frédéric Lebain photograph

As you may have gathered from some of my past posts, I get touchy when arbitrary (or inaccurate) analogies are drawn between perfume and the visual arts. However, Olfactive Studio’s collaboration between photographers and perfumers is specific and yet open-ended enough to leave breathing room for everyone involved. Each fragrance is inspired by a photograph and is given a term from the photographic arts. Lately I’ve been sampling Still Life, which was prompted by a photograph by Frédéric Lebain (above, cropped).

Lebain’s still-life photograph shows an arrangement of three photographic prints of mirrored disco balls surrounded by a dusting of confetti. It contains images-within-an-image, and it could be a self-referential meditation on photography’s two-dimensional representations of a three-dimensional world; it’s playful and cerebral at the same time. Still Life, the fragrance, was developed by perfumer Dora Arnaud. It’s a woody citrus with notes of yuzu, elemi, pink pepper, black pepper, Sichuan pepper, star anise, galbanum, dark rum, cedarwood and ambrox…

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25 Rose Fragrances Every Perfumista Should Try

Posted by Jessica on 21 December 2012 171 Comments

aged roses

A few weeks ago, Robin posted an update to her much-loved post 100 Fragrances Every Perfumista Should Try, adding twenty-five more fragrances worth seeking out. Angela has pitched in with a tempting selection of 25 Vintage Fragrances Every Perfumista Should Try, while Kevin has expanded our view with a list of 50 Masculine Fragrances. And what’s my “beat” here on Now Smell This? I’ve always gravitated towards florals, particularly rose-based perfumes, so I’ll do my part with a run-down of some must-try rose scents.

True roses1

1. Annick Goutal Rose Absolue

Annick Goutal was one of my “gateway” houses into perfume obsession, partially because it offers several rose-inspired fragrances. Rose Absolue is the most “true” rose of the group. It brings together essences of six different roses (May, Turkish, Bulgarian, Damascus, Egyptian, and Moroccan) into a radiant bouquet…

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Ineke + Anthropologie Sweet William ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 30 November 2012 17 Comments

Pink SwirlsIneke Sweet William

Sweet William is the latest addition to Ineke‘s Floral Curiosities collaboration with Anthropologie, and like the other fragrances in the collection (Angel’s Trumpet, Scarlet Larkspur and Poet’s Jasmine), it is inspired by old-fashioned garden botanicals. “Sweet William” is the informal name for Dianthus barbatus, which Ineke describes as a “clove-scented” flower with a spicy, woodsy scent. The fragrance includes notes of peach, cinnamon, clove, cumin, cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli and Bourbon vanilla.

I’m a longtime fan of clove-y fragrances and carnations (another dianthus species!), so I gravitated towards this Floral Curiosity more than any other in the group. As it turns out, Sweet William is one of my favorite Ineke perfumes so far, but I wouldn’t call it a clove fragrance, and it’s certainly not a carnation-like scent. Its actual smell on my skin is nothing like what the list of notes had led me to expect: I don’t detect any cinnamon or cumin or patchouli, for example. What I do smell at first is a greenish, sweetly balsam-piney scent that reminds me of the bayberry and juniper candles for sale in Colonial America-themed gift shops. It’s a smell that I happen to enjoy; I just didn’t anticipate it as part of Sweet William.

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The Art of Scent 1889-2012 at the Museum of Arts and Design, NYC ~ exhibition review

Posted by Jessica on 24 November 2012 43 Comments

Museum of Arts and Design, exterior

“The Art of Scent 1889-2012,” the first exhibition organized by the Department of Olfactory Art at the Museum of Arts and Design in New York, opened to the public on November 20. According to the press release, this exhibition, curated by Chandler Burr, “examines major stylistic developments in the evolution and design of fragrance, and provides unprecedented insight into the creative visions and intricate processes of the artists responsible for crafting the featured works.” I’ve attended the exhibition twice over the past few days, and my reactions are mixed and complicated; I’ll try to summarize them here, along with a few photos I’ve taken.

“The Art of Scent” is installed in the Museum’s fourth-floor galleries, in a spare, neutral space created by the design firm Diller Scofidio + Renfro. The main gallery’s matte white walls are punctuated by twelve curved recesses. From a distance, these niches resemble high-concept urinals or drinking fountains; upon closer inspection, they also suggest certain anatomical forms. Each recess houses a “scent machine” that releases a fine stream of fragranced air when its motion sensor is triggered. The accompanying “labels” are projections that fade in and out of view at timed intervals…

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Lush Twilight Shower Gel ~ scented body product review

Posted by Jessica on 16 November 2012 16 Comments

England by Moonlight

One of the very first products I purchased during my first visit to a Lush shop (in Montréal, in 2002!) was a bottle of shower gel. It was called Happy for S.A.D., it was tinted dark blue, and it had a delightful neroli fragrance; it was unlike any shower gel I’d ever tried before. I’m still partial to Lush’s shower gels, and the company’s latest offering in this category is no exception. Twilight Shower Gel is a limited edition product for the holiday season. It’s a follow-up to the popular Twilight bath bomb (which I’ve never tried) and it’s inspired by “the magical moment betwixt day and night.”

Twilight is tinted an appropriately night-sky, deep violet-blue shade, like India ink, so it was likely to win my heart and a place in my bathroom before I even opened the cap. Its fragrance is a blend of natural lavender flower infusion, lavender oil, benzoin, tonka absolute and ylang ylang absolute, as well as some synthetic fragrance ingredients. When I sniff the bottle, I notice the lavender more than anything else. In a steamy shower, when I pour some Twilight onto a mesh puff and work it into a lather, the other elements become much more evident…

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